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Zealot

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  1. More importantly you've got the whole 0 gate current thing, meaning you can have one mosfet driving a much larger number of other mosfets. Fan-out, that's the word I was looking for. That amp sounds pretty awesome
  2. Given that you mentioned the words "gate", "collector" and "emitter" in one post I had assumed you did It was more for V8Pete's benefit. They're both pretty similar in behaviour though. Did you build that amp yourself? looks pretty huge
  3. BJT = bipolar junction transistor, MOSFET = metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistor. They're just different types of transistors.
  4. Yea, I'd never considered that a multimeter could actually nuke a transistor - will have to be more cautious. Oh and I also hadn't looked at the schematic for MS - strange, I would have assumed mosfets would be preferable to BJTs.
  5. Actually... you're assuming they're BJTs... surely they'd be MOSFETs rather than BJTs, which means you'd need a pretty large voltage to damage the insulator under the gate... Plus remember that some MOSFETs are depletion mode, not just enhancement... so basically it's meaningless unless you know what it actually is.
  6. That's true. I still wouldn't have thought a DMM could fry one. The current would be tiny surely. It'd still be better to be safe than sorry however.
  7. I wouldn't have thought a standard DMM could damage a transistor... most of them can handle up to 500mA fine, and I can't see a DMM putting out more than that. But yes, depending which pins you connect, you could easily get 0 resistance. Remember there are two functions for transistors - either as an amplifier, or as a digital switch. Depending on how the IC is designed, you could have two pins connected in the power off state.
  8. You gits. I'm manning a stand at speedshow. Might be able to get just the morning shift though. And Pete, stop stealing my limelight
  9. BUMP for the 205 thread. Kudos to V8Pete for his help pulling my 309 gti rear beam apart. I've binned one of the needle "bearings" (I use the term loosely) I'll try to snap a pic of the other tomorrow. There was basically nothing left but a pile of maroon dust on one side, and a half bearing shell which was literally nothing more than a semi circle. The other side at least had needles. Which were broken, angled wrongly, etc. Hilarious stuff. I don't think it was actually doing anything at all. Looking into either getting 306 trailing arms, or getting these ones fix0red on a lathe (grooved). Bearings aren't too hard to manufacture (got a friend who can get them done), just working out the most cost effective method. Oh, and DEFINITELY going with phosphor bronze / oilite bearings. I want them to last more than 3 years.
  10. Woah, that's awesome. Get it kym!
  11. Woah. E-rage. MC = master cylinder. You use that abbreviation yourself.
  12. You still have the 205 MC... so you could try both.
  13. No need to change the rear brakes - they're the same in pretty much every pug - afaik the 306 gti6 rears are identical to the 205 rears? Or comparable at least. I've read that running 306 gti6 callipers with the 306 mc and no compensators works well... not sure though. I think it was that way, I could be so incredibly wrong...
  14. Subframe is, but meh, can't be bothered til it's in pieces with the mi16.
  15. Yep. Front. It's pretty random though - happens when turning, but it's not at a specific point. Doesn't physically feel like it moves loads, just goes CLONK.
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