GregT
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Everything posted by GregT
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Symptoms point to low spark voltage. I'd check the coil and ignition generating coils are within spec. Plug cap correct resistance. Pull all the wiring harness plugs and spray contact cleaner around. Fire it up in the dark and look for any spark leakage. Not unknown for the flywheel to lose magnetism too.
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Even on polished sidecovers the clear changes colour over time - and with heat. If, as is possible, the raw castings out of the dies were clear coated, and it's oxidised to the colour you see now, I don't see a way of getting the casting surface back to original. Possibly a chemical soak might do it. Any abrasive - even walnut shells or plastic media - will leave a texture rather than a dead smooth surface.
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I'm still convinced the cases are aluminium as I've never seen anything else used by Suzuki. I suspect you're seeing a stain rather than a factory finish. I know that Laverdas have a problem repeating the OE finish on castings as as they were chromate treated - with a now illegal NATO chromate. Which is a unique colour... I'd try painting the lower case and see how it comes out. Painted silver is as close to OE finish as you're going to get.
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Everything there is aluminium. Colour differences are pressure die casting alloy mix vs gravity die casting. Nothing they left as cast would have been clear coated originally - normal Suzuki finish of the era was silver paint. Two pot epoxy silver is the common replacement now. Some pieces like the side covers would have been polished then clear coated. A look at brochures or road test pics on line will tell you what to polish. Edit - the best paint to use I'm told is Durapox. I've seen several sets of cases done in it and it's a good finish. Zinc based I've only ever found used on components in contact with fuel. Some carb bodies and float chambers and the occasional tap.
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30Degrees 1975 Datsun 260c H330 Station Wagon Discussion
GregT replied to 30DegreesRetarded's topic in Project Discussion
Is there an Autolign branch up your way ? I've found them way better than Repco. -
Very true. Quite possible an original ironhead in tidy nick would be worth more than post cafe work. HD nuts go for originality. And HD are not a traditional base for cafe racers. I get pretty disappointed at the taste shown by some modern cafe builders - particularly when they then try and sell their crap on trademe. This one is well done though. I do like it.
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Me too sorry. Next time.
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i'd go with ATF and acetone. Pull the head and fill the bores to the top. Refresh as needed until either it's free or you can afford someone else to do it.
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Same size or fractionally smaller m/cyl will work. As example, twin 2 pot Brembos - the old 08 size caliper - stock use 15mm m/c, Race use 14mm is superb. More feel & power.
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Try Robin Gibbens Engineering. In house TIG, turning and general machining. Known him for years, does a lot of fabrication and machining for the local speedway boys. Just google the name for contact details.
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Very common to have a poor earth too. As tortron says, enough juice flow to go down, not enough for ups.
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Mate used to carry a dog in one of those crates on his bike. Make it weatherproof with a cover and you're set.
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I usually buy kits for BMC 4 cylinder. There are two sizes of pickup and this kit has the smaller. No difference electrically afaik. The plastic rotor can be eased apart to remove excess magnets. You'll only need one - but mark it's location on the outer to aid timing. Easy enough to remove the pickup from the kit backplate and screw it to the NSU one. Gap should be around .020in. First pic is a crank triggered setup but I've used them on half speed ones like Triumphs and BSA. Second pic is off the end of a balance shaft - so crank speed again.
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Pertronix points replacement setup is a dead simple arrangement. I've used them on a wide variety of bike engines.
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Put a disc grinder with a cutoff wheel in your bench vise. It'll work for shaping as well.
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I wouldn't skim an old commutator. You risk pulling a segment off.Clean it up with wet and dry paper in the lathe then clean out the slots.
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When I was in the shop in ChCh, I always cheated with starters. Very good and clued-up auto sparky 2 doors down the road....Source or make brushes for anything I threw at him. Have seen low magnetism as a cause for low ergs starter too.
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Starter motor going in correct direction ? Does it earth through frame connection or one on the engine cases ?
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Is there a relay in the circuit between switch and solenoid ? Probably shouldn't be but I've seen some odd ways of protecting from high current draw.
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I think you're going to have to take your rearset mounts off the available holes in the frame lower castings. Do they call them the hatchets or something similar ? Plenty of aftermarket folding pegs around - usually sold as pillion pegs Edit - A couple of stray neurons collided and I remembered that in HD language those castings are the tomahawks.
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I'll make a small and pessimistic prediction - I reckon you're going to have to make another rear pipe. It needs to be higher and tucked well in for rearset/leg clearance and kickstart clearance. The one bit you can't change is the kickstart arc - and any fold up footrest has to be hinged well inside the line of pedal travel. Been there myself before. Luckily a pipe isn't hard to do.
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Back in the day I knew three guys with the small Evo's. All of them finished up taking them out to 1200. One of them actually sourced Branch's booklet on tuning the Evo - and gave it to me to do his heads. Still got it somewhere here.
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Looks like I won't. Conflicts with CAMS Southern Classic.
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There's a well known story in the local bike world. BMS in Wgtn landed a set of ultra light rims for a race Ducati but they were the wrong colour powdercoat. So into the bath they went.... And never came out again.
