JustHarry

Yeah runs are just part of painting. We call the paint depth indicators at work, they're so you know you've got enough paint on

Dunno if I'd point a big heater directly at a painted panel..... risk getting it too hot. Giving it plenty of time in the sun will be more than enough. Total credit where credit it due. Looks awesome . Hope the metallic went on alright. Can often be a trick to get dark metallics on without them going patchy / mottley I know I've redone my share of bonnets and boots because the metallic looked like shit. It is 100% reward when it all turns out good though. Look forward to seeing it at some monthly meets

Also since you've done it in your garage theres no bake cycle ..... So the more sunlight you can give it in the next week or so the better. All 2 pack paints clear included need to get up to a pretty high temp like 50 degrease (not totally sure with out looking at data sheets) before they will cure properly. Time is not good enough. So leave it in the sun for as long and as often as you can. Also what color is that? Looks fucking amazing

What I do is cut the top off a run before I sand it. I do this with a razor blade with some masking tape folded over the ends so you dont have a corner to dig into the clear. And with the blade just lent slightly forward scrape the run . This is time consuming... but it stops you sanding the clear around the run and having low spots or worse rub through around the run . Then you have to repaint and do blends and with a metallic like that will suck big time. One the run is all but scraped off . I'll use a hard rubber block and 1500 and sand it till it's nice and flat and any Mark's from the razor blade are gone. 2000 over top of that or 3000 on a da sander. You can buff 1500 but it's much nicer and quicker to buff 2000/3000 I'm sure as you've already found out no part of this is "quick and easy". If your patient and take your time the results show

Awsome. Prob cant really "draw" them up die to lack of drawing abilities. But if I were to just make something tacked into place for mockup purposes I guess that'll be ok? That way should I need to change anything it's not a big deal? Seeing as the steering box virtually it right on the firewall on the ms65 crown there isn't really anything to jam on . But I guess the centre link will be the other issue.

The longer you leave it the better at this point. They clear will still be quite soft in the run. I'd be leaving it at least a week before touching it otherwise it just ends up making a bigger problem .

@cletus what's the go regarding engine conversion mounts. And gearbox bell housing adapters? Will be putting a rover v8 into my ms65 and will be using the bw35 lehousing with an aluminum adapter plate to the Toyota w50 box And engine mounts will use the rover rubber mounts and just make some thing on the crossmember out of 3mm? To fit the engine? I'll be keeping the stock gearbox mount and crossmember so I dont have to customize the driveshaft and also keep the shifter in the correct position. Are the engine mounts something that I can just make to suit? Or do they need to be "designed" The lvvta website just says they "must to be fit for purpose " ? Could you please clarify this for me

How bads the clear? Have you just got some big cliff hangers? Or are there dry areas aswell. At least runs/cliffhangers can be scraped off and flat and buffed back. Time consuming but do able

Not a fan?

How do you find the front? Not to stiff/soft. I've pretty much convinced myself I'm going to put a rover v8 in my ms65 so will be losing 40kg from the front. AMD am thinking that Cut springs may be to stiff with the lesser weight engine

Are hs6 used on rover 3500? Can measure ones on my rover if so

But do you really drive a car like the one in question for it's great mpg?

The springs I think I'll just cut the fronts as they sit way up in their tower so will sit fine The rear shocks are the big issue for me as I count find any off the shelf short enough with the correct mounts. I've got some kyb high pressure gas shocks in the back st the moment as it was all I could get

IMO a properly set up and tuned carb 11ty billion times nicer than those bolt on throttle body efi set ups. Throttle response for a performance engine is often sub par. And they have a tendency to run poorly and foul plugs if stopped and started

Do you have a link for the springs and shocks you used? How's ground clearance?

First is stupid low 4.3:1 In a landcruiser with 2.5 ton behind it it's great to get moving. But even when is empty I find first annoyingly low and second it to high to start in end up punishing the clutch. 2c the 154 is like 3.3: 1

What about something like a 4l60/4l80e? HahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaHahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha Sorry for the joke . I'll se myself out

^^^that's the tail housing for a 4wd? To bolt to transfer case? What the availability of a r154 vs a r150? Having that tall 5th would be lush for cruising.

The r151 have a "weak" 5th gear. Even in a gutless slug like a 1kz landcruiser towing is recommend against. Might be an issue with something with more power? The r151 is also a pretty bulky gearbox. How much room do you have?

Is a brand new tremec 5/6 speed out of your budget? Would otherwise be an excellent option

https://www.jbhifi.co.nz/phones/UHF/xcd/xcd-2w-uhf-handheld-cb-radio/345620/ This looks good

Is 1w enough? @NickJ @Mof

Where would one procure a uhf radio from?

Looks like all the doc hut/resevers are shut at level 4 Sadface.gif

Unlikely anything will happen in the next month