Bellicose

No drama mate. Either way it was going to get a rebuild. Apart from the obvious damage it's all very clean and solid inside. After bearings and seals are done I'll throw it together, work out how the clutch, gearshift and decompression mechanisms work and get some cables made. Then it should be video time.

Time to revive this thread. Plans changed. So i was going to re-power this with the 110cc outa the mini dirt bike, but it's physically too big. Next was put in a 49cc from a pocket bike, but to line everything up properly would've had the motor too far off centre. Then the plan was to make it a "proper" bicycle by welding a crank-case into it. Finally i decided on a plan. Awhile ago i bought a chopped up NSU Quickly from Manu (well it very briefly passed through his hands lol) that came with a motor that had a "gearbox issue" but had a load of "parts". I thought 'why not combine the two'. So i bit the bullet and cut the Gadabout frame up to mount the NSU motor mount. Trial fit. Yep, that'll do. Welded and checking alignment. Pulled motor apart, and..................Well there's ya problem. Unfortunately the wayward bits of ring & piston took out a large chunk of 3 out of 4 ports on there way past. BUT, i do happen to have a good barrel & piston that were in the parts that came with the NSU mini bike. Monday mornings mission is to get new bearings and seals (readily available locally) then slap motor back together.

Technically didn't 'make' it, did paint it and assemble...............does that count hahaha.

Page i use. Most comprehensive i've found to date. http://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/fitment/page#

Epoxy - key with 80 to 180 grit - bog - prime. I use all sorts, it depends on experience as well as products. Below was done with cheap(ish) Evercoat products. I've seen experienced people get good results with cheap products and absolutely crap results with top of the range big dollar products.

What paint are ya using (brand and type)? Depends on type of electric one you're thinking of using.

Yep, you're on to it. The 10-20-30% are for the thinners (reducer)

Good number for a first time meet.

When doing a full re-spray i always blow the car apart and paint separate.

Just finished in shed so by the time i get clean and get in there it'll be all over. Deffo next one tho'.

Yeah, that'd be right. Organise monthly meets now i don't have a suitable car hahaha..........pfffffft................ BUT, i will be able to terrorize the walkway when the Gadabout is done.

That's a good price man. Although the $ are hard to find when ya have none ya won't get a better quote (if ya did ya wanna ask some questions about quality of the job)

Also, what tip does your gun have? Something like Epotec needs a minimum of a 1.8 setup.

Mate, if ya want i can pop 'round and give ya a hand and / or advice. Not assuming ya didn't but.........ya did stir it REALLY well didn't ya?

If ya have any Protec Q's let me know. Owned a paint & panel distributorship in HB in late '90s and Fortec was my main brand. It was Fortec back then as the name 'Protec' was already owned by a company in NZ. It was bought into NZ by a turkey by the name of Ferguson (He was the guy who started and made the 'Mendent' brand of body filler, which he sold to CRC and made a killing, so started a winery in Tutukaka and also started importing Protec from the two guys that owned it in south oz) Anyway, a few years ago PPG bought out (as PPG do) Protec in oz and the paint manufacturer with the name Protec in nz, so that's a (very brief) history of Protec in nz LOL. Sorry for rant.

And that ladies and gents is why a good paint job STARTS at $5000. Good work bud.

Thanks man, appreciated. A few others i'm talking too have said maybe it's 'British Standard Cycle (BSC)' Which may (or may not) make sense considering Phillips' bike building history at the time.

I think i may, i know a couple of older engineers who 'should' have some.

Nah mate. They've all got their differences. Stops people putting generic seals in their Sata, Iwata and DeVillbiss' then claiming the guns are shit and putting the hard word on the gun maker.

For the time and effort it'll take to get paint outa that in a kinda ok fashion go to a paint & panel supply place and buy ya self a new one. For $140 you can get a decent gun with 2 tip set-ups (Needle and fluid tip), comes with a (semi ok pressure gauge) and all in a nice carry case. AND yes they do work well.

Good luck finding seals for that thing.

Paint stripper is fine. Don't soak the 'head' in thinners as it WILL f**k what ever seals are still in it. Personally wouldn't use it but would have it for novelty value.

Yeah, i'd say so. Next thing is one of the shock top threads needs to be re-cut, so that should be fun.

So today's mission was pull it apart.......................and what a mission it was, nut and bolts are neither imperial or metric or anything close so took awhile LOL. But nothing was too hard to undo (thankfully).

Nothing wrong with Lechler. Just another euro brand that's been fighting for market share here for a few years.