Ash Kelly barr

So I've had a wheel bearing go on my aa60. Hubs fucked and need anouther. Are most of the spindles the same or are there different sizes/shank pitches? Can I simply bolt a hub over from a Cressida or do I haft to swap the whole strut? As for what happened Bearing disintegrated in great succession on the motorway, nearly wrote the car off when it spun across three lanes and narrowly miss a little old lady. Managed to pull it together and drive it home at 30kmph In driving it home the chase welded it self to the spindle and the wheel rotated on the hub surface. Had someone look at it who said the spindle should be serviceable but the hubs long gone and I need to source anouther. In the mean time a super good bloke as lent me his corona struts to get a wof and run around on witch is epic. Even if it is now jacked to fuck in the front haha

Yeah makes sense a gas solinoid wouldn't be quick enough Cheers Good stuff man! Can't wait to see it set up

Ah right I get ya. Kind of like a BBQ element where it's hotter at the side the gas comes in and colder at the other end because of pressure difference just out of curiosity, could you use pulse width modulation to very the amount of shot? So you have a 50hp shot jet then modulate it down to 20hp?

What would be the reason for going pre throttle? I'm guessing it would be simpler to install??

What an epic post! I look forward to the graphs I'm sure there's some plumbers/gas fitters on here that might be able shed some light on the bottle at home situation

Yup correct I didn't realise this until some else mentioned it.

Update. Gonna put RCA's in. Bit of a dah moment but I didn't realise the steering arm and ball joint mount are connected. On my other cars they have been knuckle type where you run tie rod flip kit and extended lower ball joints. Of corse on this you just space the whole steering arm and lower arm mount down.

Nah, that aligns the lower arms but doesn't sort the rack arm. My rack arm has gone from being facing down to facing up, this means when the outside wheel compresses I get more toe out on the outside wheels and less toe in on the inside wheel. Drives well, but the balance between wheels is still some what uneven but as weight shifts I can feel the steering get harder and harder as weight shifts further and further. That and it makes transitions more difficult as steering amount/feel is more dependent of weight transfer Either need to space the rack ends (where it bolts the hub) down or to rise the whole rack. End spacers would be more logical as if I space the rack up I've got to piss around with the U joint to the steering shaft witch I can't be fucked with

Just note I'm talking about spacing the rack up higher to align the arm true again. Not the add spacers to were the arms mount to the rack

Sooo I know a lot of guys on here having lowered cars. I've lowered mine. Now my rack arms are at a silly angle and I'll be getting bump steer issues. Has any spaced their rack up? I've got 35-40mm before I start rubbing the sump witch would help the issue hugely. Has anyone made spacers for this? Since the bushes sit on the cross member and I have brackets the sit over top and clump downward. I wound think the spacer top would need to be the same shape as the cross member to clamp the bush properly. This mean something Drawn up in sold works and CNC'd, or a bracket made to the same shape as the cross member bush seat and then re-enforced to stop flex...??? Idk but any experience or input would be much appreciated

I've got a spare from bens car if you like?

Hey dude nice build! Attention to detail is on point! Just make sure the clutch slave is from an AW11. They are different to all other FF C and E series gear box slaves. I found this out when I crapped it self and I couldn't find another. Ended up getting a stainless sleeve put in it

Wheel alignment from the good bloke at Wairau wheel alignment. 3.15' caster 0.2 toe out Turns in nice and super responsive. Bit heavier but meh Most caster I could get from the standard rods. Could take them out and thread them more but I'm happy with it for now Wheel bearings are giving a bit of grief. Tightened them up and the grease caps leaking and throwen grease all threw the centre caps. Front rights squealing and the grease has gone hard and black so think it's shot. Will repack them next weekend..

Tightened up the bearings and new rack arms and ends. Should get it set good. Want to change the rack bushes to poly at some point. And find some where/one that can tighten up the rack pinion for me. Have adjustable oanhard on back order and possible rear sway bar (just need to double check front) Other goodies on the way as well and some snazzy bits I'm pretty stoked with Big ups to autoline Henderson

I've got some spares at home I'll measure tonight for ya. Mine are aw11. I know people put aw ones in ae86's but no idea if they change mounts or possibly have rack spacers that allow ae86<aw11 If you check ae86 forums I'm sure someone would have written up something on aw-ae86

In other news I may have a spare 7afe in witch I'll sell the 4agze short block to fund some rods and I can put a spare set of gze Pistons in it. Means I can cert with 7agte, but I'm also seriously considering a j160 with the SQ engineering adaptor. I may have a LSD diff on the way. We'll see

Bit of maintenance today. Drivers door handles return springs less is elasticity and kept getting stuck up. And they wouldn't close or lock unless I gave it a couple love taps. Pulled it off and had a look. Used multi grips the press the pin out. I ended up finding a clip that was perfect. Clips actually from a down light. Cut it and bent to where I needed. Bit of tak2 lube and it works mint. Next on the list was the indicator relay. Cheer to roman for pointing me in the right direction had a relay from j car for $20. Plug was a bit different so I pulled the spade clips out of the plug and gave them some heat shrink. I used a mate nail polish to colour code the space bits with the in/out puts and earth on the relay. Added some photos of interior as it's pretty mint. Looks to have had a cell holder mounted at some point witch is a let down but aside from that it's near new

Sweet, so no autodec haha Who's Greg? I've got factory molded carpets still so if I took them to someone maybe?? Is there someone on here who does under body work? If I can get it done well for less/around 1000 over a reasonable time frame I'd probably be keen to get someone else to do it. After getting sick of having bitumin under my nails every time I change the brakes or suspension settings on the AW I'd be keen for a solid coating. What sort of gun dose it use? I've got a heavy gun I use for the duratech cat activated primer that does thinker stuff??

I used that stuff on the aw11, I regret it as well. It's pretty a track car so I'm not fussed but it still bugs me. Yeah I know that stuffs awesome. Just that I don't have a hoist so it would haft to sit on stands, if I'm going that far then I'd sand blast the whole bottom, I've got an air compressor but no longer have a sand gun so would need to buy anouther And that I'd want to do it properly so it would sit on stands for more then a couple weeks witch won't do as I like to go give it some shit if I've had a demanding day at work haha And last time sand was in evey part of the house for months haha What epoxi primer you use??

With peeping under body a lot of people have said just to give it a good scrub and/or water blast I don't really want to haft to sand blast and epoxi prime the bottom as its a load of work, cost and time. Is there anything to be aware of since I don't want blast it all back?

Hey do I put this on my "build discussion" thread but thought I'd post here as well to maybe get some non carina enthusiasts attention "Hey so I've been scoraging through past okdschool forums for info on products/shops Mainly because once it's got WOF/tires/lower in the rear I want to turn my attention back to up keep and resto I see people commenting on autodec for carpet? I looked them up but their websites down at the moment http://autodec.co.nz I'm not to fussed if it's original, just black, hard wearing and can be worked to fit well Next is some sound deadening and I see mongoose for reasonable prices? http://www.mongoose....ucts/q-mat.html I'm not wanting to do the whole car but figure the interior fire wall and inside of where the 4 link mounts would cut a lot of road noise out?? Also any recommendations on under seal? I didn't really find a huge amount in the search function, just long rides threads with pages and pages to sift through only find a mention of it. I've already got a black under body enamel for the diff etc and want a spray on for the chassis. I know the spray on stuff is more pricy but time is more my biggest factor. I don't really want to be under my car for 2-4 days brushing it on. Any experience or recommendations are welcome and would be much appreciated!!"

Hey so I've been scoraging through past okdschool forums for info on products/shops Mainly because once it's got WOF/tires/lower in the rear I want to turn my attention back to up keep and resto I see people commenting on autodec for carpet? I looked them up but their websites down at the moment http://autodec.co.nz Next is some sound deadening and I see mongoose for reasonable prices? http://www.mongoose.co.nz/products/q-mat.html Also any recommendations on under seal? I've already got a black under body enamel for the diff etc and want a spray on for the chassis. I know the spray on stuff is more pricy but time is more my biggest factory, I don't really want to be under my car for 2-4 days brushing it on. Any experience or recommendations are welcome and would be much appreciated!!

That's better. Cut a coil and a half of the springs then used my gas torch to bend the top half coil down so it sits flat Got autoline to shorten the shocks 35mm ($55 a side) Got new inserts as well as they were pretty nackered. Handles far better now. Turns in more responsively and its not to stiff. I did think about going lower but would have had to spend a lot more on inserts to match the higher spring rate. Since I'll go to coilovers at some point the money can be used else where. That and it is actually pretty low, maybe it's just the 13's don't fill the guards but I like the 13's as the car picks up well with the smaller radius while it's only got the 3A in it Drifts better, just need to lower and stiffen up the rear as the rear is now more floaty then the front. The list to date: Indicator relay New tires (Achilles 122 185/60/r13) Lower rear with new telescopic shocks Pull plastic's out and roll guards, sort any sill/pillar rust out Then re-do all the under body seal New carpet Possibly new rear demister

Yeah nah I agree, not really OS Sorry I they get me a bit carried away

Weighs less, extra couple cams, taller port angles for less aggressive port angle, Toyota, more rev's, newer EFI and VVTI factory, RWD manual boxes are easy and cheap, flywheel from anouther car bolts on and matches OG clutchingSo no custom flywheel, clutch, adaptor plates 2GR FTW 4age is 140kg haha 2GR everything. mates to a E series box so can fit anything FWD with mixed and matched FWD mounts/axels. If you re-mortgage your house... Lotus do a supercharged version (and a turbo soon according to a mate that works For lotus servicing NZ) and parts can be ordered straight off the shelf.. Witch bolt straight on to the Toyota models. Straight cut gear sets are available for the lotus' of witch some bolt into the Toyota boxes as their still asin variants 2GR FTW