Ashkellybarr

I think offroad regardless of terrain is weight and ratios. you have all seen how slow my old thing is, dunes and not so mudy bush tracks it keeps up with anything. just needs a fucking good run up for sand hills cause it’s go no torque once momentum is lost, nothing more power can’t fix but it weighs 1400kg. Mates 07 rodeo with steps and bullbar is 2100, and safs get over 3t easily. thats a lot of weight pushing tires down into mud, or trying to lift the front wheel over a rock. a lot of those top crawlers are pretty much tube frame chassis, couldn’t imagine many would be over a ton

The LVVTA Facebook page had a thing about coil spacers recently, can’t find the post now sorry. But I’m pretty sure it’s a no. unless they were softish factory rubbers

I use rollers just cheap ones from Bunnings, about $15 for a roller and a tray. and $5 for a pack of two rollers. main thing is I use foam rollers, and use a roller per coat. I don’t bother cleaning them as they get hard in some places and not so you end up with uneven coverage. with applying.. i dip it in the tray then lightly roll it on the rolling bit. Press to hard and you lose all the product and end up dipping it loads of times. once the product on the roller a squish the ends of the roller to remove a bit. I found this helps get rid of the edges. Next I only do long rolls, basically to get as much coverage as possible and get as much on as I can. From there I just keep rolling until it’s all even. probably spend more time rolling it even then just getting the stain on. For the final coats just thin them down. Just check what product your using but mine I can just use turps. ill probably thin mine right down and do three super thin coats to finish it. Maybe sand with some 800-1200 grit between. good thing about the foam rollers is, when it starts getting tacky you can see by how much it tacks to the roller, how even the coverage is

Bought a house last year so I’m a lot more budget minded now, that and what I don’t spend on the house gets spent on cars so every cent counts being a Jew on everything but cars I’ve decided to try my hand at some super tidy furniture for the house on a budget. started with a dining table. luckily I did some elect work for one of our fabricators at work so I’m getting all the legs steel, fabbed and painted for free picked up a pine laminate slab from Bunnings. $115 for 2100x900 and about 30mm thick using the stain in the picture plus a clear with Saturn finish. They were around $70 a tub. Probably only use about 1/3 of them for this so about $45 worth of stain for this. so about $160 so far for the table didnt sand the slab at all, wanted to leave the high spots and rough bits. did the first coat super thick with just the jap black, and actually looked a lot darker in person then the photo, darker then the last photo sanded it all back with worn out 120 grit, this took all the high spots back and brought through the grain and edges. next mixed the clear and jap black 1-5 in favour of the clear and that’s how it sits now. ill probably give it another coat with 1-4 and see how it looks. plan is to get another two slabs. Cut one into two 450x450 side tables and 1650x900 cut to width for coffee table. the last into 2100x450 for two tier TV table. legs will all be retangular box tube, painted in Saturn black and the timber to all be the same stain and thickness

I’ve got an assortment of T F And G cyl I can measure if you need. Those cyl look pretty wide compared to the ones I just did on my hilux though. just weld tabs on the shoes lol

Those jelly beans are on point

That’s pretty much exactly what I was thinking!

Yeah that’s why I asked. saw a photo of someone else doing it and thought it was questionable. but at the same time proper bulk head fittings are expensive and still leave exposed terminals

Regarding fuel system wiring changing carb tank to EFI with in tank pumps, using a large inspection plate for pump fixings would a compression glad for cable through the plate be ok? Can’t really find much aside from this blurb, 2.3(16) An electrical system within a low volume vehicle must be designed to have electrical equipment such as pump motors and solenoids isolated from the fuel tank and system. and any other suggestions or things to watch out for with doing these mods to a tank? cheers ash

Issues with the exhaust too. HX30 rear housing flange doesn’t suit anything I can find off the shelf so I’ll need to get another flange-turbo that goes straight to 3”. that and the lengths of tube and bends OD is about a 1.5mm to big for the other V bands I’ve got for down pipe to mid, and mid - tail so I’ll haft to chuck them in the lath. mainly cause I like to overlap the tube from one side into the other side V band as well as using male-female V bands. i did it on a JZX110 system I did and it located well and sealed super tight. other things the intake. Going to do a quick cut and shut to get it running. Bit of an awkward spot but a 90’ into the cente on the plenum should work ok. Just need to do a measure up from the bellhousing to see where it will sit. then save up for a spool gun and glue stick the cunt together

Unfortunately I’ve been to busy with life to give anything car related some time until the last couple days. stills runs like shit, -5 stars for the eBay carby. Think the secondary sticking, maybe, fuck knows anywho, seat was buggered and found another for $80 in good con. Good bloke even dropped it off for me and had yarns about unfinished projects for over an hour. Pulled the vinyl up and... ffs ill sort it out and take it back, then DP40, then raptor coat it all black and just not bother with floor covers cause 4wd life

What did the carpets from autodec sting ya?

Went for a blat today. looks really slow in the video haha and it’s probably only just as fast as a late model Camry, but it would have been pretty tops in the early 70’s its pretty boaty around corners. Hopefully the sport suspension and bushes turn up from alfaholics soon. couple other things too, like a high idle. And the clutch is all the way at the top so needs a bit of adjustment. not so sure about how to sort the idle as I’ve not had mech injection before so if anyone’s got and knowledge on it feel free to flick me a line

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Started a thread on his behalf because he sucks at interwebbing, but also because it’s got a lot of interest so thought people would like to see it and I’ll get him out to some OS things in it. had a fair bit of resto work. from custom milled stainless led high stop to milled stainless rear seat luggage latch mounts. motors 2.6L v8 with mech injection, and factory dry sump setup. motors just had a full rebuild inc the sump setup etc. upgraded 4 pot front brakes and a couple other things using factory bolts ons from other Alfa models rear suspension is pretty shot, and it sits a little high. Got some parts from alfaholics on the way. old boys pretty slack with work updates etc but if anyone has and questions or photos of any part just message me and I’ll get it up

No specs on controller for DC feed?

Electric fork lift motor ftw

I’ve done a lot of research into doing rwd 2GR. Absolute pain in the ass. Can swap onto a small box that won’t handle the torque and no room for starter as the block design means the starter has to be on the Gbox side. or a Lexus sc350 2GR with auto and custom bellhousing to manual box, $$$ 1GR with R box is the go, but it’s a pleb commercial vehicle motor compared to a Nissan 35. 2GR bellhousing pattern is different to the Lexus 2GR and 1GR so that’s a no go. ford or Nissan for sure

I’ve done a lot of research into doing rwd 2GR. Absolute pain in the ass. Can swap onto a small box that won’t handle the torque and no room for starter as the block design means the starter has to be on the Gbox side. or a Lexus sc350 2GR with auto and custom bellhousing to manual box, $$$ 1GR with R box is the go, but it’s a pleb commercial vehicle motor compared to a Nissan 35. 2GR bellhousing pattern is different to the Lexus 2GR and 1GR so that’s a no go. ford or Nissan for sure

Good to know. I’ll unbolt the arm and take it for a drive first to see what it’s like

Do a sickcunt ya burnout! +1 for for getting rona on the rd first

If a vehicle come with lspv as per pic. Can I remove it when certing for other mods? i.e longer rear break line for lift and remove it all together cherers

Yeah after posting this I found a guy put a jag one into an mx5 in the uk and a company that’s sells conversion parts for it. Inc carbon intakes youtube “car throttle mx5” and it’ll turn up and yeah imagine 2.5L Nissan motors are pretty reasonable price to

Theres ford Duratech v6 guys put in all sorts, so might find bellhousing and other conv parts pretty easy. Can’t imagine they would be a super common swap in NZ so might get reasonable pricing on them

V6 with twin t28’s