Mr Vapour

Any more pics of the e9. That is priddy

Got to spend some time in the shed today . Water blasted the bay once the motor was out. So so much cleaner. Next is strip out all the hardware and see how bad the rust in the firewall is

Legend and a gentleman

Can some one bring the band saw I brought off tontron back up for me please??

It's amazing what you can do when the wife goes away for a couple of days and you spend a couple of nights in the shed. I'm hoping to make steady progress from here slow but steady. The grey car lucky has good steel where this has rust to this point. Off to buy a spot weld cutter tomorrow. I also have to buy a bunch of box tube and make a rotisserie.

rust rust and more rust the fire wall has rust. top corner where the fire wall, the guard, and the compartment under the screen all meet. looks like there may have been some impact damage in the past. the from bar has signs of plug welds not being ground down fully. But it all appears straight. also the bottom of the a pillar is going to have to be cut out to get to the compartment behind it to repair the worm. But i have the front end stripped and have started to unhook the motor ready for removal. Any one want an old M20B20 carb motor runs very well and starts 1st pop after 6 weeks. I also have a m20b23 that im going to try and fit the carb and dizzy to and get started. will load photos while im on the train on my way home. I hate rust

So I pulled the carpet and floor deadener off and have found lots of surface rust and some patches that need to be cut out. So the plan is to wire wheel the whole floor Should I use acid/converter to get any spots and creators the wire won't get in to, then epoxy over the top Or should I just use por-15 as a one step process. I'm going to rat mat the floor so I want to ensure that iys going to last as I won't be able to check in the future.

A thread dedicated to the removal and prevention of the dreaded tin worm. So I spend allot of time reading and researching. In recent times my current situation has me looking at rist, it's prevention, removal and techniques used, what products are common, what products are best to use in what situation. But much of the information is not kiwi and the products and some techniques are not available here or dubious methods. As we all have old cars and there are some very talented rust removal people here. Put up products, links to threads and advice and questions.

OK actual work Took off the wheels .Looks a bit sad now. Collected the motor and got it in the shed. That auto trans will be coming off this week. I already have a box for iit. But yes it's a big motor. With this in it it will have the same power to weight as a e46 m3. Pulled out the drivers carpet. Rust in the floor. Not as bad as I thought and the grey car has a good floor with a sound accelerator pedal mount. Mine has rusted off completely. This bit is more interesting/scary. It's at the bottom of the a pillar

At least swan is footing the bill. Are they paying for your time as well. What are the flairs off? Universal jdm items or sillycar specific?

So I spent the day pulling the donor apart. Pulled the rear arms (now the property of duddly for his 2002) and subframe out. Fuel tanks, drive shaft. Basically starting from the back and working forward. Also checking out what's good on it that I may be able to use as rust cuts for the black car. I'm not having much luck with the latter. This is one very rusty car. But the drivers floor looks to be good, not much else.

Mid case will handle 300HP so will be fine for my little car. That's why I already have a mid case lsd on the floor in the shed. Hahahahahahahahahahahahahs

no pics yet, but im collecting a m52b28. For those of you who are not up with the BMW lingo. Its a 6cyl all alloy 24v Vanos(vvt) 2.8l motor out of a 1998 E36 328. Is should make in the region of 210Hp after i fit the intake of the motor i currently have. and it weighs about the same as my factory motor, so should work well with the coil overs i have. i also got a getrag 220, now i have the 2.8 im considering selling the getrag and getting the ZF and just do it right first time. a e34 m50 sump also arrived recently.

is the bolt in to steel or alloy. It may be safer to take it in to a engine reco and get them to spark erode the drill and bolt out. Yes it will cost but it will mean you will still have a usable head afterwards.

Ok I'll look in to getting bends somewhere other than STA. Yeah I'm always keen to build things my self but I know I will buy the parts and they will sit till I find the time and I would have been better using the money to buy the thing to begin with. That video from magna flow is very very good. Confirmed to me that with this car the most that it will make ever even with a 2.8l will be 250hp so the 2.5 will more that flow what I need for the 2.0l and future proof for the next motor.

Thanks man I'll send you something in the PM

i have a red hjc full face in a youth size at home

Sweet . I will check them out

sweet thanks for the advice. I worked there in the past and i know that they do their research and provide a good quality product. Where else provides a good quality product for a reasonable price??

Where is good to buy mufflers. I'm proberbly going to get my bends and flanges, collectors resonators from STA parts. But I dont like the mufflers they stock. Any one know of a good place to buy 2.5inch oval packed mufflers.

I will pick your brain soon if you don't mind. I'm putting a m50 in my e21 and wouldnt mind taking to some one who has done it. Wiring and what not.

Sorry about the thread title. I'm trying to get it changed. Can some one change the thread title please. It's jib not Jeb.

yet another brake question. I know that i cant weld the factory pedal box. but i have a fucked up remote booster that means that i have very few options for headers. I have been researching and a gent in aussie has mounted his master cylinder about an inch higher than factory, he has used a plate that is bolted to the factory pedal box. this is what the master is bolted to. he has then drilled a new hole in the brake pedal for the clevis to bolt to. This has allowed him to get a better ratio pedal and eliminate the booster all-together. Im on my phone on the train an cant sort out my photo bucket. here is the thread he has the photo in posts and links to the guys photo bucket http://www.bmwforums.com.au/showthread.php/36546-Nigels-E21-S50B30-Project/page5 plate with no masters http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4199.jpg plate with masters http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4207.jpg pedal with new clevis mounting http://i271.photobucket.com/albums/jj148/nigelmk1/DSC_4449.jpg

Talk smack here about this nice little e30 link to the build //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/52383-jibs-87-e30-24v-31l-stroker/ Very nice work. wow. S internals .At least you know your wife listens . i will be picking your brain me thinks

Give segedins a call. They stock guides,, valves and seats ( well they did a few years ago) Dean (dene) or Paul will be the ones to talk to .