johnny.race

Bottom bars done. The top ones are going to be a cunt to position in correct alignment. Everything's on angles. My sins are going to catchup with me, lol. Bring it.

Thanks Nominal for giving me the pointers re how to go about things in this department.

The jig to align the 4 link bars. Its built to do both ends.

A mongrel diff setup for a mongrel truck. 9" housing center, schedule 80 linepipe and KUN model Hilux diff housing ends. Am going to try and slice 31 Ford splines onto a couple of Hilux axles. A pic of the victim who is going to give up its cab. This thing has been sitting in the garden for yonks. Rusty as fuck. Long story short Skid truk/paddock racer made up of mainly these kinda parts ... BB MoPar/727/9 Inch, Hilux chassis, LC3 Morris Commercial cab ... with this sitting on the front to scare little old ladies.

In a further effort to save dosh, I am using OEM Surf suspension bushes. A combination of line pipe, 1" threaded rod, the afore mentioned bushes and an accurate little jig will see it get done. Still tossing up on whether to go triangulated 4 link or try a 3 Link. Wanted to get this part right. Used a machinists level and some bright round, lol! Probably the only straight bit of engineering in the whole build, haha!

The engine has been set back in the chassis approximately 'heaps' mm's. Lol! Fucked if i know without going out to measure. But the front spark plug of the engine is sitting somewhere around 100mm (probably a little shorter) behind the front axle CL. This effectively shunts the gearbox back heaps too. It also means the OEM torsion bar adjustment mechanisms fouled on the newly positioned manual gearbox. Faced with the decision to either convert to coil over or modify the existing setup - the existing setup won out due to it costing nothing but time. But farrrk!!! What a balls aching job. Everything's on angles and I ended up having to fabricate near everything. The original adjusters were originally closer to the driveshaft. They have been swapped out for a pair of KUN26 ones, then plates made to allow them to be mounted close to the chassis rail. See pics. All this equals heaps of room to allow a big inch MoPar to monster the inside of a Lux chassis.

Its been years. See the other pics have been deleted. Dunno where i was up to or what has been lost. I am a shit poster anyway but am back into the black car. So I will just stick stuff up as it happens and call it done. So in no particular order ... Basically Shedrat'is a bigblockpoweredstickcarthatdontshine. He's based on the iconic shape of a 40's Willys Coupe. His chassis is a YN57 2WD Hilux item that has been fucked around with. Long story short - the stock frontend has been used, the arse has been chopped off and replaced with a fabricated item. The drivetrain consists of a Chrysler RB engine, a A833 4 Speed and a 9 inch Ford differential. The car is destined for the street but has smatterings' of race bred bit's and pieces due to me wanting to use up items left over from a drag race effort. So you'll see 35 Spline Axles, MSD7 and Roller this and that, but no sign of any chromoly. Brickshithouse construction mentality rules in my shed too. Fuck the added weight. This is a no frills effort that won't shine.

Was supposed to be sorting out the water pump/alt and stuff then thought fuck it - bonnet emblem. Ride the Serpent

Fuck, never thought about that. Hmmm, i'll sort something though. Thanks for the heads up.

Fab in the shed. BB MoPar into Lux chassis

Out of interest ... do those late model holden utes like that black one have chassis under them that are not unit body (ie body separates from the chassis) or are they unit body?

Do it bro. But try a pump from out of a larger car i reckon. This is what i am going to give a go. I have no idea whether Coon's or Commy's have in-tank/internal mounted fuel pumps but if they do have, and given they are charged with feeding a larger engine - they might have more poke/flow. This Nissan one I am using came in the tank so I just used it. It provides adequate flow and is not throttled back by way of bleed off or anything. I actually want something that requires throttling back by way of a return line or similar. Its more work but it allows scope for dialing in exactly what you want in your tub. Just saying.

Mate, Kemsol Big Kong mixed with Kerosene. The stuff in the pic is 91. I used petrol to test the weld joints given IMHO if there is a leak in the weld joints - gas will find it. There was so i fixed it all by flooding the MIG joins with braze rod. Fixed. Any solvent that gets used in the shed will usually see its dregs end up in the bath. And this is where I hope that the use of a car fuel pump will stave off melted plastic pump parts etc. Lets see. But this thing is working a treat mate.

More recycling. Got sick of the short comings of my parts washer and set about doing something about it. Didn't like the fact it was not on wheels, that it flexed around due to being mounted on flimsy sheet metal legs, used a shit power plastic pump, had next to no filtration and the expensive cleaning solvent evaporated out of the tub. This cost near nothing to build - just time. Woolworths castors, Nissan petrol tank complete with submersible FI pump, V8 Rover sump, old parts washer tub and, miscellaneous radiator hoses, clips, air cleaners and lengths of steel. I did purchase a new length of angle iron though. Everything bar the new length of angle came from the yard being either shredder or light gauge. New (larger) drain hole cut into tub. Inside the Rover sump is a strainer and a couple of air cleaner elements. The strainer catchers anything big with the air cleaners providing a massive increase in filter area/capacity. The beauty about air cleaners is that they are readily available for nix plus you can see when they are clogged - not a guess like when using an oil filter in the system. Plus they (the oil filter) has an on going cost. The solvent then gravity feeds through radiator piping back to the petrol tank filler. I have got it up and running in jury rig fashion. My intention is to wait until a battery charger turns up at the yard and use that to power the thing. Add some things like brushes etc and call it done. The thing is sturdy, mobile and completely serviceable plus, the solvent will not appreciably evaporate from the tank much.. I have never mucked around with FI petrol pumps before and thought I'd need to utilize the return line with a tap to control the solvent flow. This proved not to be the case. It flows alright but if anything - I might look around for a bigger capacity pump out of something. Anyway - more DIY cool shit in the shed.

Yeah, but not glass I think. Ideally its needs to be glass but typically its going to be perspex or the cheapest glass substitute I can find. Maybe the next step I need to learn is DIY glass cutting, and learning about different types of glass and shit.

There is actually more work in doing this sorta stuff than meets the eye. A side or coffee table made from scrap. Yeah, there is some weight in it, lol.

We used to use Mobile Delvac 1310 in the CAT side of the fleet for Hydraulic. Used Mobile Delvac 1330 for the CAT engines. Didn't matter if it was a high drive 8N or a little D6, they were all the same. When we were operating out in the boonies sometimes (like real fucking boonies say island only accessible by sea-craft and we were only there for a day or two so brought fuck all) and we had had something happen to a hydraulic system that caused it to near empty - if we had used up all of our spare fluid and still needed more ... we'd make it up by mixing 1330 engine oil with diesel. Mobil Delvac 1310 Hydraulic oil has a distinctive smell that only it has. If you've operated big CAT gear, you'd know what i am talking about. I swear to god that once you mixed diesel with the engine oil - you ended up with something that looked like and smelt like Mobil Delvac 1310 Hydraulic fluid. Worked for us - never forgot it. But personally ... why fuck around given the piddly amount you are after - don't take risks with lifting shit bro. Da fuck is $18 compared to the chance of something failing in the future and causing damage. Better places to cheap out in with no risk. Just sayin ... Cheers.

Notice the Thunder Park theme going on with wine bottle tops in the table base ... 8 cyl engine block, white top for pre stage, one amber and one green (Pro Tree) and red at the bottom for when your deep stage goes wrong, Churr!

Saw this Steampunk genre drawing and made a real one.

did you get that top arm apart?

When you should be trying to earn an income or advancing progress on your hotrod ... your mind wanders and this shit happens, lol! More recycling/re-purposing. I fucking love it! Of late, I have dragged my toosh to a couple of art craft show/market thingies and had a look round. Attended a Steampunk thing too. Decided I had enuff dirt under my fingernails, the gear and resources to have a go at doing it myself. Free heat from scrap mixed with waste oil. I love living the life of a fucking shedrat.

Bit late but yeah, that is a BW78 from out of a Falcon. It will have come out of either a wagon or a ute judging by its rear cover. The sedans had a different setup. You might be lucky and its got the 3.27:1 Ring and Pinion in it. Its not an AU because its running the early style bolt setup that holds the brake backing plate on to the housing. It will be 28 Spline and would have come out of something from the early to mid 90's at a guess. Narrowed a fair few of them, they are an ok diff.

I don't know fuck all about L200 diffs but have access to them at times. Can the 9" type and the 8" type be told apart from the axle spline count? Do they have a different number of splines each? I have seen a Mitz V6 axle (I think it was) that was 31 spline. And i am sure i have seen 28 spline axles from an L200 (but not sure)

I have a few Ford Courier/Mazda Pickup differential heads. I don't know anything about these sorts of diffs apart from i have sold the odd head to OS'rs and Stockcar pilot on occasion. In the mix are a couple of LSD's. The LSD's are the first 2 from the left. The last one is an open one (for comparison) The next pics are of the LSD unit on the left The next pic shows the clutch pack in the head which is sitting in the center in the first pic. Question ... all of these heads are of the 30 spline type. They came out of Couriers and Mazda MPV (?) etc. They all interchange as far as I am aware. Whats the go on the two differing types of LSD? Is one better than the other? Does anyone know about this stuff? Cheers.

More practical application of scrap in the shed. Sick of chasing diff heads across the table when torquing down the cap screws? Do more than a few heads at times? Get one of these. Bolted to the deck with nothing going nowhere. Head able to be rotated 360 degrees for spanner application anywhere you might want to try some. Have multiple jig thingie/head holders to suit the differing heads i muck with. Looks Steampunky/Shedratty cool. Makes me dosh. Put together with the same loving care and dirty arsed 50's era stick welder all the heavy iron projects get around here. Churr.