Hyperblade

Race motor (cnc head, cams, pistons) on npd100 300hp odd (think that was at wheels too) designed for endurance racing, few $$$ involved but not crazy money.

Good idea, I have seen something similar done with 3d printed molds. This is actually a thing, pads create a hot spot, or so I've been told. Have been moving it after racing, but believe warping occured during race.

Yeah was figuring all of that would be the case and was wishfully thinking it might have got easier, nothing is ever cheap being 1 off. Sounds like I'm going the aluminium route, i've take the time pressure off myself as i want this done right, so I can spend some time mucking around and see how far i get. Yep still WFH most days, thanks for the offer, but i'm probably ok to proceed at this point (but if you ever want to pop round and check it out just sing out), if not will give you a yell Thanks everyone for the thoughts/advice appreciate it!

I run the ex TRS Michelin slicks which are 13" and have amazing performance and cost me bugger all (new are $450 a tyre). I have a fairly large stock pile of them and the car looks and handles better on them. Yes, my life would be a whole lot easier if i ran 15" but it's worth the pain for the performance.

Do you think it would be possible to do the duct and the plate as one piece in carbon/fibreglass? Does it have to be machined afterwards to give the tolerances required? Can you use PLA as the one time mold or does the resin eat it? Anyone you recommend in Chch for the carbon/fibreglass work? Correct, was planning to do this myself (i have limited experience), but running out of time before race day and current thinking is to take a step back do a proper job on this.

Current hole size is 1500mm2, tube is 2.5" (3100mm2) however the inlet on spoiler is 2" (2000m2) New hole size is 4000m2, I'll be upgrading the tube to 3" (4500mm2) and the inlet to match. If i was 3d printing in metal or maybe doing it carbon fibre it's possible to get the hole on the plate to 4500mm2 but it's a more complicated shape. So i really do need to increase the hole size, no room internally in the rotor for vanes, only have less than 20mm to play with and there is bolt heads in there as well. also don't think it would help, i need to get air into the center of the rotor and let the rotor vanes then pull it out. I'm already running maximum disk size you can in a 13" wheel. there is 2mm of clearance between caliper and rim, to go thicker would require new calipers and going to larger rim. Background: I'm warping rotors as the hats have not been designed large enough and so the air is going straight through and up the outside face of the rotor, I have a solution for that, but that means any air will escape where this plate sit, and that means there will be cool air flowing over one face of the rotor, creating a temperature differential which will cause them to warp again. At $600 per rotor I can't afford to warp another set (If i can get temperatures into the correct zone they will last many years), so I have to make sure the air goes out the vanes evenly, hence the tight fit, but then I need to ensure enough air gets in, and larger is better in every way as you can always blank off the inlet. I also only want to do this once, so prepared to spend time/money getting it right.

Very true, good idea on an approach. Sometimes when you racing cars with 500hp the braking zone is the only time you will ever get close to feeling like you can pass them

Always open to feedback. Old one seemed to be ok for 5 + years? It's AE86 front struts so hose goes straight to chassis mount, so hose is taking all the flex. There so some pressure on the plate, but there is a tiny bit of flex in it? I am considering bracing the inlet against the strut to take any movement out of it. Yeah the aperture is one concern i have, but i really need the biggest hole i can get. (Guess one option is to get the whole thing made out of carbon) Air is coming in from the strut side from high pressure zone on the front spoiler through the orange pipe. Race car only, rotors are seeing sustained 600c +, this is a 267mm x 25mm disk all under a 13" rim with a 12 lap race where i'm often in traffic, so getting rid of heat is a big problem, so it needs more than your typical race car. Good idea! hadn't considered that approach.

I need to go from this hole at a 45" angle up, right and inward towards engine bay and then adapt shape to to a 2.5" or 3" outlet to attach the hose on to, space is very tight. Orange plate will be 2mm ali, currently thinking of having it laser cut instead of doing it by hand. What options are there for achieving this relatively quickly and potentially at home? One I option i had thought of was to 3d print the inner and just hammer the aluminium around it, then get the seam welded (or try to do it in one piece), either way I would probably use a separate ali ring for the hose to clamp to. would end up being welded to the plate 2nd option might be the same inner but get someone to lay up carbon fibre around it (don't know anyone who does carbon fibre, or what that would cost me), but high temp area and not sure how specialised that is. I can't see fibreglass withstanding temperature? Any other thoughts on how to solve the problem?

So the only TRS tyres you can still get secondhand from the series are the old rears, (now the new fronts) which need 10" wide rim, so most cars require substantial modification to run them. Those charts were based off the smaller TRS slicks that runs on 8" wide wheels. so you need to think carefully about what tyres your going to run, it may be that 15" might be the more economical option (even though I don't like the look of them on old cars) For grip, you will be wanting to aim for 185 - 200kph at the end of the straight which should be doable with your weight and power. I went with 2nd-6th gears which meant launching in 2nd and using 3rd for hairpin 4-5 everywhere else then 6th for straight. But the alternative (and much nicer if you street drive) is to use 1-5th which can be beneficial for N/A cars as not using overdrive 6th. Here's some diff/speeds (based on 54cm trs tyres) to give you an idea of where it would sit You have lots of revs available which gives you a few options (let me know if you want me to calculate any other options).

MSEL are great to deal with. Shipping is slightly more expensive but it's always next day delivery. Definitely can recommend them.

85mm long = To me that looks to sharp on the inside of the outer runner (middle runners look fine throughout). 100mm long = 110mm long 120mm long = Yeah haven't changed pulley so will be 50 degree one, interesting, might have to end up putting it back on the dyno after the ITB's to look at all that. I have been offered the use of one, just need to upskill in being able to tune.

48mm throttle plate, 46mm (same size as port) outlet to runner. 53mm inlet to velocity stack. Are you going to remake the intake for it? Would be interesting to see another back to back but on k20.

How important is getting the runner straightended up before the port? e.g. 150mm length vs 85mm Obviously the longer I make them the smoother it gets, but do need to take into account velocity stacks and potentially having to go 90 degrees with them to fit the total 320mm length in.

Small post to say a big thank you to @h4nd for coming round and getting an Oscilloscope trace of the Honda S2000 Speed Sensor (VSS) I've been having issues with (only taken me nearly 2 years to get round to it.) just waiting on Link to respond with their thoughts now, but have one potential solution we think should solve it. Traces are below if anyone else needs similar in the future

Just Crank and Intake/Exhaust Cams. From what I have read on their forums what they advertise takes that into account, so you can actually go higher then stated normally as your not maxing them all out. Often people put a divider on the honda speed sensor, but the latest Link ECU's should be capable of handling it (and they do a plugin version now)

Yep Hall effect, it's positioned directly against one of the gears (nothing special I can see on the gear) I don't know the size of the gear it's against, so not sure how accurate it would be replicating it, I could 3d print something, but I assume you have to put some metal in it for it to work. I think it needs to be fairly high rpm to recreate the issue, I think outside the range of most drills/lathes. Have PM'ed you Thanks I'm in no rush so If h4nd and I can't work something out will give you a bell.

I need someone with an Oscilloscope and who knows how to use it to come round and help me diagnosis a speed sensor cutting out at 5000hz (120km/hr+) (according to the Link ECU). It's in a racecar so I can't drive it on the road, however I can recreate the issue on the jack stands, and I have a DTM connector (and know the pinout) in the engine bay to the sensor so will be relatively easy to intercept the signal? It's a Honda s2000 AP1 gearbox, and a Link G4X Xtreme X which has been double checked by link (capable of 10,000hz) I also have a spare speed sensor that can be bench tested if required. I can only do this during the day either during the week (I work from home most days) or weekends as the car is to noisy for the kids/neighbors... I'm located in Prebbleton and happy to pay for your time.

A friend races his RX7 with a 13B and a J160 and it's been pretty reliable for the most part (he's raced it since 2008). However last round he blew 4th gear, so the circlip mod may be worth looking into. The issue is a lot of the boxes for sale are all very high k's and it's not as easy as it used to be to find cheap good condition ones.

RE flywheel, I'm not up to speed on it all your issues, but could you run an insert like the K2F flywheels run (inserts can be bought separately)?

Yeah and for the price you don't even get a PDM built in. On the flip side at least g4x maps transfer over and plug a and b are same as g4x series so easy upgrade. But a bit underwhelming tbh.

Link have had one for a while G4+ Force GDI https://dealers.linkecu.com/force-gdi 4 Cylinder only though, ($3000+) And have their new G5 Voodoo Pro https://dealers.linkecu.com/G5-Voodoo-Pro ($5000+) Not a cheap exercise!

If using anywhere near the track then yep it's a big deal, if you make sure you have a good range available you will save yourself a lot of money in the long run. More choice means more competition so harder for the manufacturers to price gouge you. So calipers from MX5, GT86 etc are good choices as they are often tracked as standard. Generally though you are still limited to a smaller selection of compounds, my personal experience of bonded mintex was not a good one. But it's going to also depend on the use case, as proper track racing is quite different to say hill climb or street. Another option is picking a caliper that lets you water jet cut a pad down from another common pad size, this is what I did with my rear AE86 disk setup, I just had wilwood polymatrix pads cut down to suit, $25 to cut down per pad, and once they have template it's easy as. If your looking for long lasting brakes, bigger and thicker pads are what you want to go for, it helps them last a lot longer from the heat and just helps all the components around them.

That looks like a nice simple self contained approach definitely worth exploring further, when you add up all the fittings etc it really adds up quickly if doing a external setup. Good idea! And could fill the rest with foam to help stop it moving as well.

Just for reference if you do decide to chop up the original tank (which is more then doable) Here's the starlet tank that was running the altezza pump (ignore all the other shit, it's mostly redundant). As long as you get the height of the pickup right e.g 2mm off bottom and run some baffling you would be fine. He ran basically what was like Icecream sized square at the bottom around the pump with a couple of holes (and return from regulator feeding into it), this was pretty good even on the track until the welds broke and it started rattling around. Granted he did blow it up in his face while welding it... but from what i've read if you purge a fuel tank correctly it's actually a straight forward job from that point of just standard welding. Yours has a relatively flat surface too, I would just cut it all out put a plate on top, grab a fuel pump setup from a modern car like a toyota/honda and do another fuel sender hole.