BLIZZO

so after a bit of a mission on the weekend we went down and picket this bad boy up. Apparently in the week between paying the lady the money and picking it up three people tried to buy it off her, i certainly timed it well. happy chaps! Got the thing home and gave it a good dose of 30 seconds and a water blast, then spend 3 hours cleaning all the rat shit out of it. Came up surprisingly well, someone has previously painted it with house paint which although flaking off has done a reasonable job and protecting the fibreglass is very fitting hangin out the back of the triumph a quick bit of investigating has revealed (like most of these now) that the wall supports are completly rotten away where it meets the chassis, so there isnt much holding the wall up. Will see how these can be replaced once its all stripped out as the chassis looks like it can be resurrected. hopefully these can be replaced with 3mm angle without removing the whole fibreglass top, which would make it easier to keep all true its now tucked away in the shed at work waiting for the work on the rally car to be done before it do anything else on it. pretty excited to see some progress tho, whats even better is that unlike any of my cars the cooks pretty excited to get this done up too, winning.

righto guys who here knows stuff about painting stuff. Im fine with the how too, just unsure about products. So far i have decided to paint the car white, and in a 2k single stage (no clear coat) paint. I have found this on trademe for $185 for 4 litres, would anyone suggest that it would be wrong for what i want? Cheap is good cos rally car and it will undoubtedly need doing again some time soon in the future. So becuase its 2k im going to go buy a good respitator, i have a couple of really good HVLP guns, i have etch primed the bare metal stuff. Im unsure on what sort of primer to use, do u just use a single pack primer, or a 2k primer? so many different variants of shit. All advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Odd that it needs a quarter of the tank, the sedans have a big swirl pot in the tank to avoid the pump sucking air and doing this, I'd maybe look at adding a surge tank and having the main pump feeding from that, which for some reason I thought the estates had factory. Having to always have quarter tank would drive me nuts. Good work on the respray, and is agree with your panel beater in not removing the sunroof, fuck that, the roof would never be the same again.

Good stuff, don't be put off by the rust work. Check out my build thread for my Kp rally car, the rust is a big job but keep chipping away. If you want to get rid of your fucked 5 speed I could your man, wouldn't mind rebuilding a second one to have as a good spare.

sooooo i have not updated this in a while so ill jam up some progress. Im pretty motivated at the moment as i have registered for DCC's 5 round gravel sprint series and the first one is on jan 16th, so have a fair bit of rust work and a paint job and several other things to do in that time. Anyway, on the parts acquiring front I had secured myself a very rare TRD U-code starlet 2 way plate LSD, my father in law went round do check it out but reckoned it was pretty shagged and they are impossible to get bits for so that broke my balls big time. But then he also told me he had just got me a quaife ATB LSD for an escort diff, a 4.4 escort nugget and is going to jam the starlet mounts on an escort housing he has lying around, so mega win, i married the right girl. Anywho panel progress, so like many 80's starlets it turns out this thing is a bit of a rust bucket, and like many 80s starlets some muppet has just filled all the rust with bog and gone shell be right. Thats not my style, im pretty rubbish at panel beating but i at least like to get the rust out and new steel in, bog can hide wonders. so here is some of the dodgy shit i found - The passenger side roof line was atrocious but there must have been like 2 kgs of bog on the ledge at the back of the roof / hatch. So i cut it out and buzzed a bit of new steel in there anyway 3 of the doors are also quite badly rusted at the bottom, some could be patched, 2 need the whole bottom 4 inches of the doors made, no drama tho bit of foldy foldy bashy bashy in between rust work i decided i wanted a strut brace to try stop those towers from trying to kiss. Being a jew rally car i decided a nice $5 brace from a mitsi outlander would do, still needs a bit of bending and welding - the rear hatch itself also had quite a bit of rust in it so i got way to carried away and cut it out, now i have to replace it all - gunna need some new stickers i think and this piece is my next task, hopefully im able to get it done tomorrow arvo I have decided before i try to do any panel beating that i want to look nice i need a good welder, my $150 little ching chong thing is a piece of crap, so hard to get good runs or penetration as its like it doesn't have enough grunt to run continuously, just gives a crack - - crack - - - - - - crack crack crack - - - - - - - crack response as opposed to good welders i have used that sound like frying bacon.

maybe he will get his own that tows behind it

Hey team! well last night myself, Shonesy, Dolan and Jemma went on a bit of a mission to go aquire my next project that we are both rather excited about as it was the deal of a century. Tis a rather original 1963 12foot starliner caravan! so pine as these things are pretty hard to find now and although very neglected this one seems to have pretty good bones. anyway pictures first - So it has sat in this resting place for the last 8 years, and in another resting place for several years prior. The cool things about these starliners is the entire top half is a solid fibreglass shell, so they dont leak! thus the bottom alloy half and framing doesnt rust!. The fibreglass has a few patches in it, and will need a new gel coat on it. The chassis is very surface rusty, but i will try repair this with the floor out but shell on, as apparently it is incredibly easy to break the fibreglass shell when removing it. it has a rather whack but cool duratorque suspension setup that keeps it relativley low, with drum brakes and a what cable break setup. the interior lining is also pretty degraded as it is a spray on foam type that is all brittle and cracking and falling off. most people rip it out but i have seen someone use carpet underlay and "solo" what ever that is, dont know how they have done it, but this is it here - anyway back to our van, our plans are for a re line, tidy up the cupboards, new gelcoat and paint, all to the original colours as factory etc, probs try find some sweet brown / burnt orange retro lino for the floor, get it real tidy, and then use the hell out of it, will look sweet behind the triumph. only thing i am gutted about is the sweet starliner hatch in the roof is missing, and has been replaces with some shitty broken wooden one. can you all please do me a favour and head to the starliner nz facebook page, there is a competition post to win a bunch of parts, can you please like my comment "blake jones" so i can win the shit out of some stuff. please and thankyous, line here - http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=423583487844790&set=gm.1064454596920661&type=3&theater anyway more photos for the thread -

Keen, such a lush campground too, some super sweet swimming holes if you don't mind -30 degree water

they are PI hubcaps you have on it at the moment. Are you after another set of them? or an original set of TC hubcaps. I have an average to alright set of TC hubcaps that i have no use for, can fish them out tomorrow and take a photo if you want.

Has it been run lots in recent years? If npt be careful, mine hadnt run for like ten years, and i got it going and ot ran mint, and then a day later all the seals chooched out cos of unleaded fuel / slightly dry seals. Most importantly the seal in the fuel pump (a viton replacement is about $4 at a seal shop) and the fuel / air diaphram in the metering unit, this is a bit more difficult, dont buy the ones off rimmer or chris witor, these are NOS and not that good, ill find the number when back in the country of the TR6 old fulla in tauranga who is an ex lucas technician, he has real good quality stuff and will do it for you at a good rate. If the car has been sitting for more than a year or two i can almost guarantee these will need doing

I wouldnt bother with old panels for steel man, been there done that and it probably works out more expensive with all the paint stripping discs. I just did a whole heap of rust work on my starlet and went and brought a 1.2m x 1m (appx half a sheet) of zinc plated panel steel from an engineers, i think its 1.2mm thick. Cost me 25 bucks so fuck all. I tried like 4 panel beaters in feilding first, who aplarently dont beat panels anymore so dont carry steel. That way you have a zinc coating on tbe inside aswell to help stop future rust.

lookin good richie, i vote bling the engine but leave the rocker covers exactly as they are. They have history, and it looks fuckin cool, opposite of diamond in the rough spec.

Rodney seemed to think that was somewhat normal and where the cam was coming in. There was a separate graph that showed richness, at first it was really rich down low and lean up high, he changed the air correctors to reduce the richness down low and get rid of the running lean up high. I thought that big dip was abnormal also but i know fuck all about tuning and rodney seems pretty onto it.

so i think i have nailed this one to one colour scheme that i like (and is easy and cheap), and suits my purpose. just need to decide on which variation of this scheme i use. I have chosen this as i have to repair rust on the bottoms of the doors anyway, so this makes it just a quick spray of white over what needs painting anyway, then a black vinyl strip over the join in the paint. the colour will continue the same line along the hatch at the rear. help me decide between these 6 options- 1- 2- 3- 4- 5- 6-

haha its like peedubs' pug 309 racecar except his was a retarded drill and tap into an oil gallery /ling

I doesn't like yellow and green, ain't no blardy Aussie mayte. I like the stripes like the picture on the top of this page, that's what inspired my first concept and it too would be easy to do. The white and green one would require a shit tonne of vinyl / pretty much reprinting the whole car, and haven't found one colour that looks good against the yellow. I'm leaning towards my take on the renner in yellow and white that fliboi posted, will bang it up nice I do a concept

Always good to see more Lucas injection, well done man, can't wait to steal some development ideas off whatever you do haha

haha i actually like, for some reason its very DTV chuvetty

source for anyone interested in having a play, extra points for hidden penises

Righto boys and girls i need some opinions on colours for this pile of sack as i dont know what i like. Doors are off at the mo and im fixing the bogged up rust. Will give it some yellow paint so it will be all yellow once on finished. Im not doing a full spray cos im jewish and its a damn rally car so it will be a bit hori but good enough to wrap around a strainer post on SS4. So to make it look less hori im going to get some vinyl going on cos rally car, also currently getting simon to mish mash me a hatch spoiler possibly for extra horsepower points, gotta have that down force. So tell me what you think of these ideas, yellow is a hard base colour to work with but i cant be fucked chaniging it. not actually my car, was someone elses on here i just stole photo for ideas cos mines in bits in a dark shed. tridies ftw. hit me..

haha this, because the difference is for sparkle to pay someone to do that fucking around, would cost a lot on pingas. I vote just disconnect the booster, lock out the back brakes, start this fucking thing up on doort some tyres into oblivion

they say for things like webers that the carter rotary pump is the best as it doesnt need a regulator / holley regulators are only that good to use if you run the return line (apparently, just what i have read in my research). Although ask sparkle what his new facet pump he has on the BMW is, it wasnt cheap but fuck me sideways is it quiet, like literally cant even hear it quiet. Its just mounted on a couple of 5mm rubber washers.

Kys 610 booster idea looks ideal sprak. And nah he's not a brute, the cutdown one was a spare the mechanic had lying around, his shiny one is in the glove box

Adjust the rear shoes or try compress the shoes in, if you really can't get it crack the nipple and compress the shoes then re bleed the brakes. Nice work by the way, she's a swish looking motor. I too have not seen a trump without a Crack around the choke, or in my case around the fuel enrichment knob. Shod go for a trump cruise sometime when I figure out how to make my clutch work

From my brief yarns with Sheldon Rush in the mainland about my rally 4k there isn't that much advantage to going to a weber downdraft over the stock carb. He had a stock carb on a not super duper engine do a 14second quarter mile. I'm no expert on these engines but he says there are many other things to do first before the carb. I'd wait until you can go twin sidies / fuck it and get bike carbs. Mine has a single 45mm dcoe on it at the mo which goes good, I have a set of DHLA40s to put on but I'm struggling to find a cheap manifold, and pondering the idea of bike carbs to rile the old boys up.