chris r

The rest of my aliexpress stuff turned up today steel bung for sump rivnuts etc. I was a noob and ordered -8 instead of -10 bends so I'll order some more and wait. I got the rocker cover and piping welded up which looks sweet! so much better (and faster) than braising. The factory pcv/breather system has this ugly separator box on the back, I turned up a adaptor so I can get a -10 weld in bung in place and to to the catch can. I lost count on a few of the passes before measuring but its pretty close. I'll cut out a retaining tab and get it all welded up nicely later.

I got the - 10 and it was a happy coincide that are the right size to fit and work with the stock baffle in the rocker cover. Will I be better off going for a - 12 for the block fitting? I'll he machining a adapor for the block and thought about drilling the hole at a angle so the oil draining from the head doesn't fill the vent piping. Re draining the tank into the sump the general consensus I found they say no as there will be moisture etc in it

I'm going to make my own catch can and have done some reading. This seems a good summary of what I've found. https://www.enginebasics.com/Engine Basics Root Folder/Catch_Can.html I've got two -10 from the rocker cover ad one will go to the block. I was thinking about using the factory pcv to suck the vapours out but I'm thinking it may not be enough flow with the turbo etc. Or do I just run some line to the turbo inlet and call it done Has anyone got tips on baffles and what to use for filter media. I'm thinking about steel wool or a scotch pad but I'm not convinced it's a great idea.

Drilled rocker cover for the an fittings, and re mocked up the piping. I'll drop them off tomorrow I collected some bends and stuff so I can continue with the turbo down pipe. Man the Tight 90 bends are heaps more than the normal ones.

I have had mixed experience with NOT skimming them, first one was ok but slipped under load and when trying to do skids. Second one was second hand everything and it was mint. 3rd the flywheel looked good so we didn't,mrs drove it to work and it was good, gave the car some beans on the on ramp and the flywheel side of clutch evaporated. Every other I've skimmed. So for the sake of $30 get it done,better than gearbox back out etc

Ness has a xcar link in her accord and that plugs in to the stock stacker & uses the aux button. There is some functionality with the steering wheel controls too. It has a usb or micro sd card adaptor too so you can fill it with your tunes

I'll be staying in York bay

That'd be cool but I can barely organise myself breakfast haha Apparently I can't spell either

thats what I usually do too haha I'll attack it tomorrow and see how I go

Thats why I have so many projects haha

I have a friend close with a tig so I'll get it done nicely. I originally planned on just tacking with the braising and getting him to tig it nicely but I got carried away. Its not the end of the world and was a good learning exp

The rods I got specifically said they don't need flux? I had the pipes stinking hot, the rods did seem to adhere/flow well. I cleaned it with acetone first to degrease then a new clean stainless brush or new flap disc so that should be good enough prep? Aah me trying to add material wasn't a good idea then haha. So accurate cutting and a flare on the end should do the trick?

So the shuttle intercooler piping was a fail. Can't tig over the braising as I suspected. More practice needed I think, any tips for a total noob? Braising in general tbh I got some more piping this morning for cheap there was a Pricing error on his website and because I'm a tight ass and said the website was cheaper the seller honoured it. I'm still waiting for my Ali express fittings to turn up. Annoyingly the sump weld in bung is cheaper here. The Aluminium ones were about a 10th the price. I figure they might be total shit but it is only for crank case ventilation so won't be under too much pressure The gearbag for the crx is ready which is good,ill pick it up next week. Had a super successful zebra mission today. I went in to get some stuff for a friend and got pissed at a integra for not having what he needed. After a few minutes looking at it thinking something on here looks useful I clicked that the power steer high pressure line. That was a cheap solution. I've also scored some not cheap shit headers so I don't have to hack these ones up further. Hopefully they clear the subframe and don't scrape All that's left mechanically to do on the crx is clutch and flywheel and put it back together. Oh and finish off the fuel tank. And the sun roof.... I'll ignore all the electrical stuff that doesn't work. The engine loom is good and the lights work. Radio and heater can wait until later

I'll be down a week early before nats so what's some cool stuff I can check out in welly. I've done southwards which was cool. I may have a car but can't drive too far as I get tired etc and don't want to crash someone else's car. Or if people want a hand getting their stuff ready pre nats I'm happy to help too.

If it's outside/in the shed its all good right?

I had Ali rivets holding my wires on the annode and it was fine, corroded the Ali a tad but didn't notice anything bad. I used sticks as insulators for the anodes and they survived/fared well. It just looked like soggy driftwood tbh

Sweet. Mine is still choosing so I'll find a container and check it later. I've ordered a port tank kit so that'll go in when most of the rust has gone

Sounds like a deal to me

It's only a few sensors and some wiring. Megasquirt it for Max easiness

Good point re ethanol, I didn't think of that. I was hoping to avoid spending 150 as I'm guessing that's what a tank will cost? I'll re fill it and see if I can get the rest of the rust gone

No not entirely correct. That wont have enough power to run a pump. Your best bet will be to get a test light and check the wiring under that dash by the Ignition switch. OR Wire up a relay to the Ignition coil wire as per this:

So its had about a week, I've scraped off the anodes a few times since the last fluid change. I think we can safely say this works good. Because I'm cheap I'm tempted not to use a sealer on the tank, I think as long as it is full of fuel/ has a functioning fuel cap (not a emergency style one like it had) it should be ok? What are your thoughts? You can see the high tide mark there, I might flip the tank or something to try get that last bit out. I suspect if I was more careful I could strain and re use the solution.

I sanded the raised letters back and chucked it back on the motor, Looks a bit better now. I'll have to give the block a scrub now so it looks a bit tidier. The headers have a 2" collector so I've chopped that off and should have a 2.5" on the way. The flange is waaay off the head ports. I'm thinking about attacking them with a die grinder so they are close to matching.

rivnut/rivet it possibly? If you do use the cable tie I'm sure you know but cut it off flush as they turn into razor blades after a while

Good point. I did think of that and was wondering if it'd contaminate the weld but Time will tell on that. I've got the rocker cover an fittings to attach when they arrive so I'll give it another try