chris r

My c10 had boosted drums. they probably needed more adjusting but it could BARELY stop from 100k without fading in any reaosnable distance. Don't brakes convert rotational energy into heat energy? so if they are poor at dissipating the heat its a pretty shit system imo anyway discs are easier to work on and don't fade so for those two reasons alone its worth a swap imo

@Goat the Gc chucked in some spares. we talked about loading it up at nats but it never happened. I havent gone through it all yet i noticed there is a overflow which i'm stocked about and spare intakes and side trims etc. Lots of stuff I never would of thought to ask for. A+ would trade again. Can I get you fd for cheap in 10 years or so please

after the rx packed a sad I stole the battery back and chucked it in the crx. Started it and its nice and quiet and doesn't appear to be leaking, The intake is super loud in comparison now. I'll fit the radiator and weld up the cross member then I can run it for a bit longer. Its getting closer and closer to wof and tune time which means the rx can take its place in the garage I figured out why the drivers seat was on the piss, the rear mounts have cracked. While I have the welder I'll butcher it. My plan is to use the thicker plate I have and drill/tap a hole so its stronger than factory and hopefully wont crack/fail again.

I chopped off the mounting tabs and moved them so they would bolt onto the fc rad. The swift fan is a pretty good fit I think, its a score for $20 Got my monies worth out of the cutting disc Welding is getting less bad Lovely, the wiring even comes out in a nice place. I didn't plan it that well it needs a bit more tweaking making the holes bigger & nicer for the hoses but I'm happy with fitment for how little work it needed I tried warming it up again but it decided to do a few backfires and run on one rotor. I suspect the injectors are gummed up again and the fuel pump wiring is still shit. I need to stop being impatient and sort out the running problems instead of trying to get it good enough to do a skid go for a test drive. There is what looks like a thermo switch in the bottom of the rad so I'll test it to make sure it works and actually is a thermo switch and wire it up with a relay. I figured out the fan wiring, it appears there are two sets of brushes in the motor, if you have either powered up it'll be low speed and have both connected in parallel it'll go full tit. Another option could be series/parallel them for extra low but thats for later. I've ordered some of these for the shroud so hopefully it'll prevent any vibration etc

I know it takes ages to bleed them properly :), I am being a bit impatient and jumping to conclusions too. Apparently its fairly common though, well according to google. It has RTV everywhere so my expectations are fairly low and I guess I'm kind of expecting SOMETHING to be wrong. Fixed for you

Front drums are sooo bad, its not a good feeling knowing you have one good stop if you are lucky

thats what I initially thought but they were there even after it warmed up.

I popped into adl and had some sharns picked up some rad flush, cooling system bandaid/radiator clogger and some exhaust cement Zebra mission was successful, after looking at nearly everything I found a electronic fan that's pretty close in size. It's even got a metal shroud do I can butcher it to fit the fc rad. It's twin speed even so I can get fancy later. For now I'll just switch high speed. Gave the rad a good hose out and threw some flush in it. I got it to idle by unplugging the idle valve. The fine bubbles calmed down a tad but the bigger surges I guess you'd call them stayed

I've got both haha, I figured I'd have all the gay in one thread. Probably confusing but it keeps it together. Shuttle is staying single cam and is getting force fed because it's too much of a ball ache to do about series swap. The crx is because I was pining one, that had had most of the attention lately

remember how I said I couldn't find a turbo timer? well I didn't look very hard... I chopped that out and it still wont turn off when you turn the ignition off so I'll have to keep looking. @yoeddynz has very generously loaned me a wiring diagram book so it'll make tracking down the fault easier I topped off the rad and ran moved it, it was running for all of 3 mins and its pressurizing the rad enough to spew out. Before I jump to conclusions I'll flush everything out and give it a bleed

It takes too long to grind it all back, I tried with one section and quickly gave up. The neighbors don't want to listen to hours of that noise anyway. Its all done now, the muffler isn't quite level but I've run out of caring to be honest. I gave it a good shake and it doens't hit anything which is good. I'm waiting on a o2 sensor and I then I can drive it I noticed the passengers side hanger was close to coming off when i was swinging it heaps so I added a bit so it'll stay in place. It got a slight trim so you could actually fit the hanger on Because everyone knows honda boys love the cock

Best Friday ever. The rain must of washed some of the dust off. I was barrying away in the garage and missed a call from a random number, guessed what it was for and wandered out the front to find this I was quite amused at the existing damage on the paperwork Grabbed the battery and it fired right up like a champ! It won't idle no matter the temperature. I ran it for about 5 mins and moved it out the back. Good news is my rangi radiator o ring replacement rtv gasket paper works perfectly, it showed half on the temp gauge but was boiling a bit. It is missing the radiator fan and probably needs a drill port & rebuild good bleed and flush. Both hoses were hot so it has thermostat opening and flow through the rad. I'll measure up the rad and have a look through zebra for a electric fan that I can make fit. Hopefully It has a thermo switch somewhere I can re purpose/use to trigger a relay. A quick list of stuff i need to do off the top of my head - wheel nuts - diff mount/cv nuts/driveshaft bolts to diff input - put a flexi in the exhaust and figure out the leak - air filer and figure out the idle situation - fan/bleed coolant etc - paint/sort the surface rust so it doesn't get worse - re run fuel pump wiring - spanner check everything before a wof - check/get all lights working for wof check -fail a wof and do a skid whats probably going to happen is the van will turn up and i'll be like a kid with too many toys and wont know what to do first

It looked better before I welded it.. I need more practice clearly but it'll do. Two resos in the middle make it a tad heavy, it's fairly balanced as the Hangers are in the middle so well see how they last. Part way through the muffler

I should be free. I think I have a hospital appointment in the am but nothing else on the table

Insure it and give him a box to hit it properly next time

Thanks dude, it's taken me a couple of days to get here. Haha it won't be looking as good after I finish welding it up. I'm thinking I'll start on the top side noone will see so by the time it's ready to do the bottom I'll be less shit

Bring the jet bike for testing

Thanks for the offer but I've got gas this time, ill probably take you up on it in the future

Nearly everything is tacked into place, one more hanger to do and I'll have to tack the piping into the reso and I can bust out my seagull skills. Rear section to muffler Everything joined up I got flash and chucked a v band on it so I could actually fit in the bloody car

Little bit more progress this morning. I tried cutting up a old 90 I had so it'd clear the control arm, I ended up using one of the new bends. I take back what I said about liking them now the sta bends are pretty frustrating to work with. I must of had some really old sta bends in stock which werent as bad. After a few million test fits and mucking around I got there The hanger even lines up nicely which is a complete fluke. The pipe is fairly close to the tank so I'll use my leftover wrap to be doubly safe. Its about time for a nap so I'll figure out the muffler etc after lunch and a sleep

Anyone got a dealer plate and I'll bring a tang. No drill ports though unfortunately.

What he said. I got about that for my old one last year

The mid section is welded (horribly) up and painted in high temp paint to hide the uglyness. I really need to stop buying cars and get a camera. I got lucky with the hangers and it sits nicely and is relatively balanced. I need to make a trip to zebra and get the stock exhaust manifold exhaust support bracket. I gave away my spare 02 sensor and got rid of all my other spares when I had a tidy up so I'll have to wait until the whole lot is done before I hear how loud it is or isnt I was impatient after dinner and TV wasn't worth watching so I went out to the garage. I've figured out a few lengths and tacked it together. I need to tweak the angle of the last bend a tad so it's roughly parallel with the bottom of the tank. I've got a couple bends left to butcher so I can clear the control arm and then I can try salvage what's left of the muffler

I popped in and visited my old boss and a few sharns later and a quick trip to his other workshop I was able to borrow his mig. I used the new shorter flexi and I can fit both resonators in and they (just) clear the shifter which is good. Its probably a bit overkill but I'm getting a bit old man spec with noisy exhausts. And besides intake noise is better anyway right? the resos are tacked into place, I'll figure out the bends after a break

My arc has died so I can't even tack the exhaust together, i'm waiting for a gasless mig to be dropped off at some point so I can carry on with the exhaust. I've never been 100% happy with the engine loom in the shuttle and its starting to get old/show that i've butchered it a few times. I have found some of the honda specific plugs on ebay so when I get it back I'll work out how many I need and order them and re do the engine loom from scratch so it is all new and as good as I can get it