chris r

I'm also a piner of these. Semi irrelevant sharn My only experience was when I wasn't the tools this guy came in for a quote for something and raged that we were too expensive so gave it a bog bootful and was sideways out of the driveway and boosted down the road

So the interwebs told me that the falcon tbi module is Weber pattern. I don't know if the ea is different but it is not the same bolt pattern That's the gasket of the 34adm on the base of the TBI unit It doesn't matter that it's different as I'll just make another adaptor plate to suit

Pulled the points dizzy and gave the replacement a clean Drilled and tapped some holes for the hei module. I had some too long screws so trimmed them to suit Tapped out a existing hole to m4 for the earth Consulted my handy parts manual for the timing order and figured it ht leads. Chucked a new set of plugs at it while I was in there. I've put a relay in so ill actually get all the volts to the coil/module. It'll be triggered by the original blasted feed. This can all be removed and put back to stock of needed. As I was tidying everything up I realised I'd forgotten to connect the bypass wire to the module so it doesn't do its own advance. Will fix that tomorrow

So the car parts gods smiled on me today. Spotted a falcon and thought it looked it had a carb. I wandered over to try and figure out vacuum lines. That's not a carb... Yoink

Rebuilding carbs is strangely satisfying Passed QC All the old o rings were hard at and a couple really fought to stay in place Only had two bonus pieces but everything that came off was replaced so those bits must be for a variant or for bits mine doesn't have Had a fiddle and the stock throttle cable actually fits the Weber! I was pleasantly surprised. Should be easy enough to barry up a bracket to retain It All that nice clean stuff looks out of place now. I'll cut a plate out and use the hz air cleaner top so it still looks stock ish. And I just brought a new air cleaner and am to tight to spend more...

Often I could cold running issues are coolant temp sensor related. I'd bung one in to test. Easy enough to change. Are 16v sensors the same?

Ooh yes please. I'll see what the carb kit comes with when it strived but I think I'll need some. Should be fine as I am planning to he only using weber pattern

I couldn't find my black paint so "cast iron" colour will have to do. It was cold today so I soaked the paint can in the sink for a bit and heated up the brackets with the gas torch to warm things up new pistons and seals all re done sliders lubed up and new bushes on them. The old grease was hard as fuck and the sliders took a decent amount of force to get out. everything is nice and smooth now. Should be ready for another 40 years of neglect now. Ordered new hoses on the supercheap 25% off sale and they took nearly 6 weeks to arrive Ht leads finally arrived from aus today. I had a new cap and rotor in stock that I had hoarded so thats a nearly new ignition system. I'll order a male crimp to work with my existing coil and re crimp one lead to suit. I'll use the gm hei module and wire it so its internal advance isn't used as the dizzy has vac and centrifugal advance

Will do next time I visit. It's not a small affair

Yeah I'll be keen

@Mr Vapour worked his magic on the intake, carb and callipers My uncle has a aliexpress CNC plasma cutter so I hand drew a picture with some measurements and he did a test run Not perfect but that's why it was done on scrap steel. Will do the final product in 6mm ali. I also got a cheap chopping board to mangle into a spacer\gasket so there will still be some barry hand-finished factor

Looks okay at first glance Yeah na I ordered a repair kit at the same time so no big deal. I'll see how shit it behaves with the falcon jets before ordering more

Calipers, brackets and are getting vapor blasted, when the weber arrives I'll send that for some loving too. I (poorly) welded up the section of exhaust I've done so far and chucked some high heat paint on it. 'cured' the paint by shoving the heat gun in the end and walking off for a hour or so Ran out of brain so didn't do the hangers today. Figured muffler position out and hot glued that on. It should clear the spare tyre. If not I'll move it over somehow.

The front calipers were in a very sad state. Took a bit of effort to disassemble them

I got some hella h4 semi sealed for the tonner. Amazing difference compares to the stock sealed beams, I'm only running standard h4 too.

Re the brakes. It's always been super touchy when cold and would lock up or be super aggressive on the first few stops when cold. A few years ago I replaced the wheel cylinders and shoes, rear brake lines have been replaced diff hard line and soft line to diff. It's still touchy when cold but there is fuck all front braking going on. It'll just lock the rear in the wet or if you need to stop in a hurry. I've ordered new front hoses and will rebuild the calipers. It seems unlikely that both front calipers are sticky enough to cause these issues. Would I be correct in thinking the prop valve may be being a dick and sticking. Could the touchyness be a combo od booster and prop valve being a dick too

Reading up on porting the holden six cylinder heads and it's not hard to see how it's hard to make them worse than stock Test fitted the manifold. I'll need to heat wrap number 5 as its really close to the starter and I'd rather not cook it. Tacked up the first bit of the exhaust. I'm pretty confident it won't hit the floor. There is now clearance to the floor, a flexi and there will be more than two hangers at the very back of the exhaust. The og hanger was the perfect profile to weld to the mid muffler so I tacked it up then ran a ratchet strap under the tray to hold the other side so I had something to aim for Should flow less bad than the old 2" system with 11ty press bends Laters job will be figure out the rest of the hangers go and tack them up. I'll chuck another flange after the reso so it'll be easy to remove if i have to in the future. More importantly easier to weld up and refit. I've got miles of diff clearance at the moment but don't know how much lower it'll get with a load of stuff on the tray. If I get time I'll figure out the rear muffler and the tailpipe. One option is a 90 after the muffler and shove it out the side before the taillight. Another is straight out the back. I'll need to pull the calipers at some point and give them a birthday too. I'm hoping the lack of front braking is sticky calipers not a fucked prop valve

How about three?

I'm aware it's much better, I'm trying to do this as cheap as reasonably possible. If i end up going port injection I'll realistically have to go to a different manifold style all together as throttle bodies will clash with fuel rails etc etc. Yes fuel drop out is bad, how much worse will it be conpsred a carb though? It's more of a learning exercise at the end of the day. If the fuel side of things doesn't work out I can just have waay over complicated fancy programmable ignition

Basically this but with injectors at a angle. It'll be 'fun' figuring out a fuel rail for it that'll work. I could also have them nearly vertical and spray onto the floor of the manifold and it can just mist around carb spec

on my running around this morning I priced up a new au coil and the bosch ignition module. Both were too spenny for my tastes. Had a quick look on trademe and found this. thats a bit more in my budget. I was debating if I get a $20 aliexpress module but decided against it I sent @vk327 some $ and i've got a fancy crank trigger on the way. I've had no luck with finding a tbi off a falcon so am thinking about barrying up a injector setup to bolt onto the manifold. Yes ideally the injectors will spray onto a hot valve but I can't tig aluminium etc etc so I'll barry up a tbi setup of some description. one option I'm thinking about is use 3 injectors and aim one down each runner but I'll have a play and see what fits

ooh yip... The courier driver was really pissy (because he was too scared to drive down the driveway and thought he wouldn't be able to turn around) and chose to walk his sorry ass down the drive with a couple of pairs of headers. he lobbed them on the deck and scratched the deck in the process Feel the 202 powah!!!one. The headers look okay, pretty sure they were advertised as 2.25" outlet but the short bit of pipe is actually 2". I'll just chop it off and weld a bit of 2.25 on the collector and call it good I'll barry up a adapter for the weber to the holley pattern. I'm not paying $90 for something I can do shittily in 4 hours might get stuck into this on the long weekend

Could it be a airflow problem? As in air exiting the bonnet or passing over and around the motor? I imagine the superdooper charger will take a fair amount of space over the stock manifold. I've got no suggestions on fixing or testing it. Unless you do a roadkill with bonnet off?

I saw they had a reasonably priced 32/36, I scored a 34adm off a falcon for 100 so thats in budget for now and will do the job while I collect bits I had a look at thesonic 9 port stuff and its a bit spenny. For similar money (once accessories are priced up) I can just go for a fitech or holley 2 barrel tbi setup with hand controler etc I might steal some of their ideas though if I go further down that rabbit hole

Not quite diy level because (not my racecar) Set up is link g4+ storm. Vss wired up and Canbus to a dash (dash to be purchased). We want to know fuel used over x distance so can calculate fuelling levels prior to stage so its not over full and sloshing around and stinking We are wondering if there is any option of a fuel used over x distance or even a average fuel usage over a trip time function that the link can do? Or would that all be on the dash side of things. Would prefer not to fill tank then do 100km of touring, then 100km of rally pace to get data