chris r

Tonner went in last week, hard-line is all done now, master cylinder was perma fucked from sitting/neglect so they are working out the cheapest solution to sort that.

I'll send another email and see what happens of it, that's easy enough. If nothing happens from. It I'll cut my losses

Yeah it's frustrating. Ebay seller said to send it back as they haven't seen that happen before... Im not too keen to pay postage for a faulty switch to be sent back a wrong colour one

Chances are both previous owner and I have done something wrong with it Also doesn't help I haven't had the brain power lately to figure it out The colours were all correct and in the same place as my og switch, the new switch initially worked correctly when I fitted it, it just went stupid after a short drive

Old switch taped up and back in

Just had a quick look and the replacement switch is blowing the fuse. Plugged the old one in and its all working as it should

While i had the ute jacked up I replaced the worn out gearbag mount, The old one was well perished and soft Spent too long figuring out the hangers and wanged this together, Really shows off my rangi muffler mods Painted the tailpipe to match everything else Test drive was a success until I arrived at bunnings and the wipers decided they wanted to work with the indicators then blow the fuse. I've got no glass fuses so have soldered some wires with terminals onto the glass fuse so I can use a blade fuse for now. The exhaust is quieter now and doesn't hit the floor so that much is a win, its got a bit of hesitation/a flat spot off idle, I'm hoping I've just put the choke cable on too tight

New switch in and wheel back together Had a bit of a poke on the passengers side a pillar. My great aunty said she had some rust taken out at some point. I'm picking they did the industry standard bog over it and paint it I could attempt to do the rust myself but it'll end up taking longer than it should and be a bit shit. I'll have a chat with the panel beater and see what they say

I need to go pick up a ladder from bunnings tomorrow so instead of welding the exhaust stuff up I replaced the wiper/indicator switch. The stalk was broken when I got the tonner and taped together, I had jammed some epoxy in it and that had held and worked nicely until the wiper switch stopped working. I couldn't find the correct colour switch but that tan is a better match than a red or black Had to barry up a press to pull the wheel off I'd noticed a couple of flakes of paint under the cowel and figured I'd have a look Had a good poke around with a screwdriver and wire brush. Luckily it's all surface and no rust holes Have it a degrease and a good squirt with brunox. Seems to be doing what to says on the packet. I'll give it another coat and stick the grill back on and ignore it for now. There is a bit of rust at the top of the a pillars which I gave a squirt of rust convertor years ago, they've not gotuch worse but I'll have to give it to someone to fix at some point. The horn was a bit shit so I got something a bit louder from aliexpress

I've lost patience (for the time being) to figure out the weber. The wideband Kit was a piece of piss to solder together. I've got a lingering chest infection so energy is pretty low at the moment hence throwing toys and swapping the stromberg back on so Its drivable

By running well it was idling without raw fuel pouring out the exhaust. I'll strip the weber and have another look through it and see if i've fucked anything else up on it. I'm very tempted to put it up on trademe and make it someone elses problem, Will keep the manifold for if/when I get around to the injection stuff.

Don't need a wideband to know its been running rich tried reversing this out of the garage so I could tidy up the crap off the floor and weld the o2 bung etc, it wouldn't make it up the slope of the driveway so I threw my toys out of the cot Now its actually drivable under its own power again. I was reminded why I had disconnected the heater hose, the windscreen fogs up with the heater core connected so I suspect its got a pinhole or some other fuckery is going on. Will loop the hoses onto the manifold and call it fixed until I have the motivation to pull the core out and get it looked at. Now i've finally had a chance to go for a decent test drive the brakes are nicer than before but still quite touchy and the rears lock up. Last wof they mentioned the line to the rear was a bit rusty so I'll drop it off to sterling and get them to do the hard line and see whats causing the other issues

Wideband arrived and assembled. I'll have to weld the bung in and see what's going on with the mixtures

For both of us!

Fuck yes. Hopefully you have it ready for drags and we can have 202 battles

Thanks, the jet holder wasn't available so I had to use what I had available. Yeah I'm pretty happy it's actually running well after this head scratching

So now I'm not super tired and throwing toys out of the cot I had another look. My barry jet holder was leaking fuel past the jet so still running bad. I chopped the plunger off the solenoid and the jet fitted nicely which was good. Ground off the terminal and cap off the solenoid Pushed out the wiring and crap Chopped up a bolt and chucked it and welded it to seal it up Still needs tweaking/tuning but that'll be fiddling with the wideband later. I'll make up a throttle bracket, weld the exhaust hangers on and go for a longer test drive

So I finally got around to ordering the idle jet. Cdl had no jet holder /screw in stock so I barried something up as a holder to test. Still runs like shit and backfires. Very tempted to rage quit and jam the og stromberg back on so Its drivable

So the jaycar module died, I got another and it didn't work out of the box. I did what I should have in the first place and orders the right bosh module Wired it all up and it works like it should

So my aliexpress order finally arrived and I converted my terminal model m to USB Aliexpress teensy and a code I found from someone smarter than me. I'll have to read the instructions on key mapping as the num pad isn't mapped correctly but all the letters work correctly

So I've finally had a play with the EMS, Same issues as @Transom. The ecu will register RPM input but seems to hold the ignition either low or high constantly. I haven't checked to see if injection side of things behaves the same Has anyone had a play with ems or come across that?

I ordered the sigma but got sent the spartan... They are sending me a sigma, but annoyed as I wanted the display to see what the carb is doing

It's already bent/fucked right? so nothing to loose except time imo.

I ordered some jets along with some other goodies Jets were ordered first but haven't shown up Now I can nicely mount fuses and instead of the industry standard stuff that's in there

Have a chat with the guys at sterling brake and clutch, they re made my tonner hoses and generally seem to have older stuff available