chris r

I've heard/read so many people saying throw a 350 on it m9 it'll go hard azz. Also everyone says they absoutly drink the gas with a treefiddy. Eeh if it's cheap then who gives a shit. I've got a few quadrajets here if I find a cheap 4 barrel manifold but what I'll probably end up doing is getting a plate welded on the stock shit manifold and biltong a weber onto it Ideally I'd like to be able to use the og air filter housing so it looks 'stock'

Let the exhaust barrying begin. The headers haven't arrived but they are 2.25" outlet. I've ordered sta finest press mandrel bends because cheap. I was figuring out what to do for mufflers and remembered I had a m&h (because cheap) chambered thing in stock so I'll use that. I was thinking about a reso or something as well but didn't have a great time with the cheaper ones lasting. Was sorting through the shed and found the wrong reso I brought for the crx. I'll barry up a reducer/expander up make it meet the 2.5 of the reso. Yes it's rangi and barry spec but it's what I've got in stock and want to afford. Shits just going to end up sitting in the shed and get scrapped otherwise

Honda shuttle awd sharn time. Mine is a top spec intrac model which meant it came out with abs and a rear viscous lsd. The non intrac and non abs beagle models came with a viscous coupler in the drive shaft and a open rear diff. The intrac has a clutched input on the diff snout (similar to the crv & orthia dual pump system). When the abs is engaged the abs computer will disengage the rear drive by powering up the solenoid attached to the clutch. Lsd on the right and normal on the left This means the intrac gearboxes and transfer cases do not have the provision to manually disengage 4wd Hard to tell but intrac on the right and 'normal' on the left you can see the casting boss on the right hand gearbox And yes I'm a hoarder and have three spare gear boxes. When I started playing with shuttles they were just shitty family wagons and weren't cool so I had quite a few and hoarded bits I managed to strip a thread in a front cv when I first had it and was running rwd for a while and it handled all 120 stock hp okay. Just felt a bit like a slipping clutch. Here's 18 year old me doing some shitty honda 0s My name is Chris and I have a problem. My barry shelf isn't liking three gearboxes

Dropped head off so a appropriately sized hole can be made for a cap screw. I've committed and am now going coil on plug. My tuner had the conversion board in stock so that's fitted to the ecu as well as pwm boost control. Pretty sweet what can be done with a 20+ year old honda ecu for not a lot of of money. When zebra/pick a part open again I'll go raid a later model civic for a rocket cover and coils. It'll help tidy up the bay a bit too.

Cam specs here for those that know what those numbers mean

3/10ths race cam. M9

Been keeping half a eye out for a manifold. And I'd be better off with fuel in the washer bottle and using washer jets than a 4 barrel holley on the 202

So I dug out the receipt from GER and they did helicoil that hole. I dropped the block off to @piazzanoob work and they had a look at it. Turns out the helicoil/hole was drilled on the piss and was crooked. With a bit of thinking I did recall not being able to slide the head over that particular stud years ago when I initially assembled it. So its been fucked since day one really. Its been 4+ years since I've paid the bill so I cant really go back and hit them up. The current plan is to re drill the hole and tap it out to a imperial thread and hope it works. I'll need to drill the head hole bigger to suit the new stud as well. It better bloody work as if it pulls out again I've got a *very* expensive piece of scrap metal

Had some yarns with henry at Auckland cams yesterday. We debated if we went for a stage 2.5 or three and ended up on 3. Should have a bit of a noticeable idle and wake it up a bit more everywhere else Picked up this lot today Let the 202 turd polishing begin. I'll slowly collect parts and will pull the motor and give it a refresh in the the future. My goal is to have it 'feel' faster than my worn out sohc honda motor with 300 thousand km on it. Maybe even break through the 20 sec 1/4 mile mark. I'll keep a eye out for a weber to replace the stock stromberg. I'd like to keep it as stock looking as possible in the bay Cam specs

Well. Fuck So I was merrily torquing the head studs down. Doing final torque. Click, that wasn't the torque wrench doing a click. When I stripped the block down the stock head bolt had snapped so I asked the engine builders to remove the broken one and fix the thread if needed. I'll have to double check the invoice but I think it was helicoiled. Whatever was done failed.

I like working on hondas. 10mm and 12mm is all you need to pull the head off. Wheeled it out of the corner Rocker gear off Farken stoked there is no rust in the bores after this motor sitting for a few years New vs old New springs and retainers fitted. Cam all lubed up I had a durp moment and wondered why the cam wouldn't turn when I nipped up the rocker gear. It's still a interference motor dickhead.... Loosened it off, put pistons at tdc and cam where it should be and things went better I need to torque everything up but I'll do that tomorrow. Here's a article with a nearly identical setup to mine. Just about a 10% increase over stock. That power level will be close to the limit of my churbo but I'd prefer response over peak power

It's been a while. I thought rego may have given me some motivation. Let's hope it continues on

Popped out to the lockup to swap the ecus over. I had a chat with my tuner about the pwm boost control options/add on in the stock ecu. There is two case sizes. And the tldr is it works best in the large case ecus. My tuner will pick up the ecu and fit the pwm boost control bits and the vtec bits too. One more piece of the puzzle is falling into place

The courier left a bag at the door yesterday and I only found it this morning. Might play with the head tomorrow

So way back in Feb 2019 on the shuttle foamer group/forum/facebook page I saw a advert for a limited run/pre order of lsd to suit the awd gearbags. I chucked a 50% deposit and waited, and waited. Sent a few emails and had no response. A few weeks ago the guy I ordered with said there was another party also doing a diff and due to some bs they got in first. Plz wait and we'll see if we can get production re run. Today I got a email saying yes we can but it's a 90 day production time due to the plague and steel shortages. So it'll be another 4-5 months before I can give the gearbox to the gearbox guy. I was a bit annoyed with the time frame as I was hoping to get the new engine in and running by then. Then I remembered how long it takes me to do anything on my projects so it'll be fine

Fixed

I've Wanged a couple fenix radiators into my ex daily and her project car. Both held up fine/we sold them after a year

Found a tin of half set urethane in the shed, added a splash or three of thinners and used a brush missing 90% of its bristles and sealed the box Made up a plate for the sub wiring. Yes there's filler etc visible but it's going to get upholstered

Chopped the crooked face plate onto the port and cut a new face plate Marked out the appropriate circle with a bit of cardboard with a hole in the appropriate place I don't have a jigsaw or router so barried my way through

Yeah it is fun rebuilding and upgrading. Even if it's a shiny turd at the end of the day

Also got confused af trying to read up on sub box design and all that crap. Found a useful website and ended up with some useful instructions 1x trade me special hunk of MDF Cut it into squares and balance everything together barry up some internal brackets, then glue and screw it together The port timber isnt square at all. and the face plate I must have cut at the same time as its also on the piss. I might get away with a trim of them both but will re cut them tomorrow

Did some soldering yesterday, I'll need to flip 4 of the holders as they are numbered and I've put them in upside down Got sick of soldering so played with the amp stuff I got off aliexpress/ebay last year. safety second. I thought I had a dud but turns out my rca cable was broken. I chopped it and soldered a new plug on it and everything works now

The 253 bits in have already have ported heads so that's the hard work done. I was thinking of injecting to but again it's more $$ and certs etc etc 202 with extractors and a mild cam I'll not have to worry as much. Its still a bit too original for me to much around with I feel

thats what I have being investigating, however the v8 input shaft is now moonbeams too and I'm not 100% sure they are compatible with the m22 tonner gearbag. Edit - just had another look on ebay and they are around 350 aud for the shaft. less than the last time I looked The 253 doesnt owe me much so I might just hoard for another project one day. Will see how it goes.

I've been keeping a eye out for v8 bits and it's getting more spenny than I want so I'm thinking I'll flick off the v8 stuff and give the 202 turd a polish. Thinking a rings and bearings rebuild and possibly a mild cam. The exhaust is leaking a bit and hits the floor after we chopped and re welded it it when we did the clutch. So to fix that I've ordered a set of extractors from aus (cheaper to my door than I could get a set here). I'll hold off figuring out and ordering pipes and bends until after I get my hands on it again