Muncie

After owning my rough as guts commodore For 4 ish months ive screwed a bit of extra go out of it. Its got to the point ive decided i need better brakes it shakes like buggery now when i hit the anchors so ive been hitting trademe to see what is out there straight brembo replacements slotted and drilled and slotted dimpled and slotted..... spoiled for choice they all are within 100$ of each other too. Whats the go? Im leaning towards the brembo replacement option or just curved slotted rotors, Are all the holes and lots of slots just for show or am i missing out? I plan to give it a bit of stick but its not a Porsche so lots of holes in my standard sized discs seems like less surface area to brake with.

Flowmaster 40 series mufflers! Probably others that flow slightly better but will sound utterly amazeballs in twin 2.5 inch.

Haven't seen those Monroe units in person they may have just changed the shape of the perch for the gain in clearance i was offered them as an option when ordering mine. If your running 20" inch wheels its going to be higher anyway so spring compressing to sort that would be on cards. 20s suck balls for flat spotting and cracking if you use your car on nz potholed roads with super low profile tyres.

Monroe does shocks with a taller spring perch off the shelf for 19" or larger rims on the small commys. I pissed around with vk's thru to VE's now still love the early models especially the vl calais the nose is so staunch.

Or what he said ^ A hand pump for each seat could be lols 4 people controlling a wheel each shit could get real mexican.

Sway bars would negate the front to rear link. You always see these dragging their bums like a dog with worms once the back seat is full of well fed passengers switching to a front rear seatup you could just bump the back up, or drop the front to match.

You would want to run new hard lines at the very least so you have it controlling front and rear instead of left and right. I know hydrolastic was all the rage in the 60s but you could make it really work for you with some new tech better valving and a bit of cunning.

My preference was to whip all the push rods out and crank it over till it pops its clogs with stubborn heads on blocks. I would wrap a ratchet strap around a rafter in the garage and anchor to the head and put some tension on it a few clicks not to much and go to work should stress the crusty old gasket enough it peels away during the day if it has head studs getting them out will help alot.

Dont even get me started on my lawnmower that ran on ethanol distilled from lawn clippings and fruit i mulched with the mower. Jewish technology at its finest.

Dual fuel absolutely the liquid used was what was interesting.

Logged an average of 6.8l per 100 from huntly to warkworth return in my commodore last weekend. I consider that frugal for a 3.8 supercharged lump. I got my 1400ks out of a tank in my triumph before with some wacky tuning.

Hey when was its last warrant? I went to look at an identical one in Auckland about 6 years ago can only have been this one my serial car collector mate had it. I viewed it at the wof shop in all its blistered faded yet legal glory. Cool to see it will live another day. Off memory all wagons had a sway bar they also run a mk1 ass end with 50mm or so less track so you should be able to stuff a heap of dish under it.

When a drunk hit my trailer and broke my range rover they AA went nuts trying to help as the guy owned up and bills got paid. Once they got to 5 grand though he stopped paying. insurance gave my car back with issues that never fully got fixed I ended up selling it. My advice get stuck in fix everything as quick as possible while insurance are happy to pay up.

Considered a Cooper s muffler? woolf mufflers they had a stack of them gathering dust out back used them on all kinds of things. Not sure what design they are internally but compact and nice and throaty on small engines but not too loud. shift your reso up front cooper muffler out back tame things down a bit but still sound good.

Hey with regard to cutting compounds waxes etc what do you guys recommend? Just finished my bottle of "plum crazy" i bought 15 years ago it honestly makes rooted chalky paint look great. But! Im ready to try some new stuff and have a nice car i want to keep glossy..... while it sits garaged.

Bummer its bearable at present so will give it an oil change hoping for the best and keep an eye out for another diff. Its only low load it does it so not noticed 95% of my driving.

Does my fault sound like tired oil or no additive? Hate to poor pricy additives into a rooted diff. Ive only played with nissan stuff r200's before.

My new daily A vx commodore has a slight low speed shudder when you turn sharply u turns turning out of driveways etc. The lsd certainly works as this things tail happy im going thru all the fluids and engine and trans are done but im getting conflicting info on needing an additive synthetic semi sythetic oils etc whats the general concensus you mechanic guys out there what do i need to settle it down. Its a mild shudder it sounds like when you push your thumb across a clean plate while doing the dishes to me it might be the wrong oil in there so best dump it and rule it out.

Autobend do good stuff you can get them thru woolf mufflers in Auckland reasonable pricing nice bends. Have you considered making a muffler? Fun project actually if you can weld.

I like it. +1 for panel vanesque windows. Needs 15x15s out back though.

If you have lots of small holes to fix say in a floor pan. I've seen a restorer do this in a 55 chev. Screw a strip of panel steel to a sheet of ply then holesaw out a pile of discs in a drill press so you have no hole in the centre. You can then holesaw out the rust in the car and weld in your discs been round the shrinkage is very uniform a quick linish off of the weld and a gentle tap around and its perfect. Screwing your sheet steel to ply give you something to hold onto while hole sawing and some weight so you wont get sliced up if it grabs. You can get creative to using a bigger disc holesaw out some rust say in a corner of a door bend the disc to shape in a vice and trim it to fit with tinsnips everything will have a round edge again minimum shrinkage.

You can get acetal ones. I know plastic sounds a bit scary but it is well up to the task and will never seize in place.

Look like triumph shocks to me out back

Castrol gtx 20/50 and moreys used to be my go to and my dads for well 30 plus years never any problems and to be fair we both gave our British cars death.

Next plan is to sell my red car and order a 12psi pulley kit im tossing up buying a air to air incooler plate which slips under the blower and allows the use of a conventional front mount intercooler they arent cheap though. I talked to a guy in nz who has played with one in great detail running a water to air intercooler that goes under the blower he ended ditching it and going water alcohol injection getting huge gains. Im on the fence now alcohol is easy and effective and if you run out the holden ecu is clever enough to kill the timing back enough to stop detonation preventing damage.