Muncie

Been bringing in pigment powders from aliexpress and mixing my own colours just using good quality clear to mix it into cheap as and turns out really good with a few coats over a base colour like black or white. Going to experiment on some bike bits soon 90s low rider spec.

Got around to last few things that have bugged me, the suicide shifter has always been a difficult to use made a foot shifter out of of some go kart bits I scored its absolute bliss makes it dead easy to ride. Last thing I want to do is lower the seat height and paint it. Rev limiter 1st through to 4th is a blast need to find some places to use it more often probably be good on the beach.

Always found doing big patches easier than trying to do spot repairs and Always blended in better, can be daunting chopping big parts off the car rewarding as though when a big part goes back on. Try to round your edges where possible you'll end up with more manageable distortion, as in mark your square hole saw out your corners then chop it out with a grinder if your dealing with flat panels. Dont try hit the whole car at once do the easy bits first then the hard bits won't be as hard by time you get to them. Do a side or area finish it before moving on to anything else or you'll end up with with a shell full of half done repairs.

Wound this thing up to 5th gear on weekend fair fucking flying and still pulling at a guess it would probably be good for 150kph I backed off well before then though. The front suspension has a bit of a wobble when you back off as the weight comes back on, needs some bushes to tighten up as there's some play. Dead keen to see if my son could race it in the junior dragster class..... after I sort the suspension.

Have you checked your spark plug tube oil levels? Cam cover gasket dies then contents of sump share space with your ignition coils. I syringed about 250ml out of mine after it started misfiring. Just another place oil can disappear to.

My 1.8t used almost nothing between 0-10k then 10k-15k would drop from full to 2-3mm below full. Penrite synthetic seems to work a treat no additives to it happy days. Repco does a 6 litre pack covers you if you need a top up.

Got same tread tyres for front too. Not used to proper sticky tyres.

Got them on took for a quick spin yuss gearing is now what I expected 1st isn't geared to moon 2nd is brutal and 3rd pulls like a freight train 4th and 5th go. And it's not trying to flip over when you turn now. Has a rake that looks purposeful because of smaller wheels.

Finally found rear wheels almost gave up and bought new, not as wide as I originally intended but pretty meaty none the less had to buy rims and tyres separately too. Will try get these on this weekend the old quad wheels are falling to bits and the tyres roll when doing donuts.

Remember to uncheck the "rod ejection system" box when setting up the ecu again.

Christmas, coregas got progressively more shit the longer I was using them my co2 went out of test waiting to swap then they wouldn't take it. You buying a bottle or just need a fill? I did both. Test and fill on my coregas co2 and bought an Argon bottle.... close to $1000 he gave me the welding consumables I piled on counter free as well. GC!

Tried Gaspro in Hamilton? They fill bottles from anyone Coregas sent me there after I said they sucked with their 4 week wait bullshit..... same day even with a bottle test and cheap.

Relevant but probably useless, I worked with a guy who had a rather mad honda jazz running a combo of bits that included a honda motorcycle gearset (allegedly) for the above reasons. Seeing as your doing bike revs dig into that knowledge stream online might be useful info there you could adapt. Or fit a DCT box or something...... all the cool kids are apparently. http://speed.academy/dct-conversion-honda-s2000/

Need some dry break connectors and plugs for the loom so he can do rapid roadside engine swaps. Might need a pog style crane bolted to the roof to aid engine ejection.......

That weld is all good for exhaust stuff, I've paid big money for far worse. Maybe jam that strain gauge I gave you on the block so you know when its going to explode again.

This feels like progress engine is on a stand heads are just sitting on dowels intake is just keeping dust out. Spent 90 minutes trying to get sump plug out some cunt had ugga dugga'd it in no tool I own could shift it so welded a bolt to it and beat it loose with a hammer. I want the sump off so I can weld a -8 drain fitting in for the turbo on to it. Will hollow engine out as a dummy block for building manifolds Using car for measuring clearances to other things.

Engine stand purchased last night, going to gut the L67 3.8v6 its lower k's than current engine will try find some second hand forged pistons and fit to the L67 rods and budget build a stronger engine. If no pistons can be found I'll just run stock ecotec stuff. Goin to build manifolds etc on gutted engine for ease then transfer it into car after i do bearings or find a healthy bottom end. Fuck it, it's worth a try ecotecs aren't exactly worth much. Making the stock ecu run it might be a challenge but im not springing for a stand alone ecu yet. My Uncle built this buick weapon a few years back 4.2 stroker with twin throttle body's. Made 300+ horsepower broke expensive gearboxes so he'll be a good collaboration on how to ruin a $600 car.

I'm anticipating some learning curves setting up the ecu that might take some time to figure out, having the option to pop the turbo off jam the stock ecu in and driving it while I try figure stuff out on the bench would be why I'm considering it. Fabricating a bypass pipe easy learning to configure all this new electronic shit not so much. Having a dead car while I figure stuff out is a recipe for another unfinished project with me. Keeping it wof and reg till the kinks are sorted then certed will help me not give up. *edit realise the above does sound like I'm been a shifty prick avoiding cert, I'm honestly just trying to avoid wasting others time arriving for cert with a car that has all the parts but doesn't function well.

If I were to arrive with a car that clearly can be fitted with turbo easily, as in manifolds oil feeds and drains fitted wastegate and intercooler fitted. If I were to just remove the turbo and bypass manifold straight into the dump pipe would it pass wof? Providing everything else is up to snuff. I know I could be green stickered still if I were to refit. I want to build the turbo setup and still be able to drive car should I hit complications or not be able to source parts. Cert will be Done once im sure im not wasting time. I just hate things sitting immobile because I'm waiting on parts turbos all vband and AN Fittings so it's a 10 minute task to remove it.

Decided to do its fortnightly start and zip around the block, found if I stab the gas it pushes the crank forward and stalls instantly now FFS. however the engine sounds healthy as no rattles zero blowby it doesn't use a drop of oil.. Realistically a set of bearings and would likely be healthy again. Do I just pull engine slap new stock bearings in fresh head gaskets and turbo it ? Regardless I'll get the new fuel system in get it a wof then I can use it again find some love for it and motivation again. K24 might be down track but at least this option would get it going strong fairly easily

Stainless pot scrubbers from $2 shop work as does Stainless swarf if your a tin ass most Stainless places will give you it for free. Keen to see a full car length 3" muffler exiting mini style through middle of back bumper. I used ceramic fibre mat as an acoustic damper on the Electron spacecraft kaowool would work, be nicer to work with.

Woolf mufflers in Auckland sell or at least used to sell perforated tube and fibre/stainless matting so you could build your own mufflers. I've got a nice 3" in twin 2" out straight through muffler off a R35 gtr you can have if you want? Would Make a nice back muffler.

2022 Suzuki Hayabusa Specifications MSRP: $18,599 Compression ratio: 12.5:1 Horsepower (claimed): 187 hp at 9,750 rpm Torque (claimed): 110 lb-ft at 7,000 rpm Reckon you can get close to these numbers?

Brian crower has some rods and other bits on clearance on the website for around $250us was looking for buick stuff. Have a gander

Over the red line on tach so 6500rpm maybe a little more. One thing that just popped into my head is the car has massive wheels with sticky tyres if I built a small angry engine I'd probably snap cranks if it wasn't auto.