yetchh

or XC, they had the later style handbrake actuator along with XD

from 10 to 30 bucks a week!!.. thats some cheap storage, I wonder what you get for 10

I think they're a good idea, was just responding to carguy's post...

I always get paranoid when prospective buyers ask for my address and then never turn up..

how much of a killer would that be....

The rain fucked me up today so I spent most of the day finishing the front suspension... painted the discs/hubs, before and after... cleaned up the calipers and gave them a lick of silver.. they're gold from factory but I reckon thats too bling.. also installed tie rods, idler arm and p/s box

installed rear springs today, pain in the ass to get to shock towers.. gonna look kind of crap compared to the now freshly rebuilt front suspension, springs in and on the ground.. on the original lowered springs.. no where near as low as I'd like, lowest point is about 125mm but there isn't much room between the diff and factory bump stops.. the fronts are captive with shortened struts but I'll have to find some rear shocks shortened by around 75mm.. gap between diff and b/s resting

It would normally but your vacuum is really high, if it drives ok and there's no hesitation around 2k rpm it may be best to leave it

There's also a 302c wagon in waikato on trademe..

while its off check your power valve, sounds like it should be using a 10.5in can cause an off idle stumble, sooty plugs etc

only one is registered and running haha..

not a good place to have a classic collection.. for rust that is..

South Brotown...

I was.. I went there expecting it to be like oz, hopefully in the future once its been there a while they'll acquire some classic stuff.. have fun, I'm gonna try for the next meat..

Not trying to rain on your parade but.. I went to pick a part this morning to find some mazda stuff and I wasn't particularly impressed, lots of later model stuff

That's because a 289 is a Windsor, this is a 302 Cleveland and will have a Cleveland firing order ..

true that.. maybe I'll wait till I have to make some block huggers haha.. cheers for the info bro

I run NGK BP6S, mine only ever clear after a good run.. To set the primaries you have to pull the carb off and check the amount of transfer slot showing while shut, there should a small square showing (.020") you prob also need to make sure your accel pump isn't bottoming out at WOT, there should still be a small amount of travel there..

All I'd want tig for is to weld aluminium but I've just been looking at spool guns and they're pretty cheap and easy to setup, but a tig has the attraction of cleaner welds

hows the float levels in your bowls? have you adjusted the primary's so the transfer slot is square? I have my cleveland running rich enough that I don't need any choke but once it warms up the plugs clean up..

why aren't you running your 6AL? does sounds like a lean condition.. I'd just put the bigger nozzle in and see how it goes..

also, what brand is your dizzy? if its procomp, bin it..

does it ever kick back on the starter? check to see your power valve is the correct size, should be roughly half whatever your vacuum reading is

any special sort of switch? I'm assuming that as mine is also a cigweld that the trans will also be like yours but I'll check anyway, how does it go on aluminium?

hey bro, what modification did you do to your mig to gain tig, I also have a cigweld (200amp) and have always wondered what mod to run it as a tig