bigmatt4

just wondering how to attach my seat mounts to the tunnel and sill having heard you cant weld them in how can i attach them as you cant get inside the sill to fit doubler plates [/url]

tunnel fabrication from and auto sparky

as she sits as of few weeks ago

Ok long time no update. been getting back into escort lately plans have changed ever so slightly i have sold my t50 gearbox setup and have up graded to w55 with nightparts bellhousing and hydraulic release bearing decides the t50 wouldnt be able to handle the punishment this car will likely see. [/url] also have found a 225mm 4agze flywheel with 2750 lb pressure plate and puck clutch so should be no weak points in the driveline. last few weekends i have been doing my gearbox tunnel bit harder than they look aye this is what i have acomplished so far [/url] [/url] still only pop rivets and tin at the mo but will get it to fit real nice before i weld it in all i have done is cut out the original tunnel lifted it 1 1/2 inches shifted it back 4 inches and given it a bit of a stretch folded up the floor pans so i can plug weld the whole thing back in and built a new front half of the tunnel. should be able to get the box out without removing the engine too will be a help and i dont think it looks too chopped like some i have seen

350 holley with an adaptor plate simple as

http://newzealand.rs-online.com/web/c/connectors/circular-connectors/industrial-automation-circular-connectors/?applied-dimensions=4294868378&esid=cl_4294967294,cl_4294959752,cl_4294958762,cl_4294957970,cl_4294960342,cl_4294958851&m=1 try these guys i use them all the time race cars and stuff pricey but worth it

use the lucas type one with side entry cap you dont need vaccum advance on a modified engine but it will need to be curved you will want the distributor to get max advance of 36deg by 3000-3500 rpm. i have mine set up to have 12 deg total distributor advance (24deg eng) by 3000 rpm and run 12 deg static timing to acheive 36 deg works well with no detination

first set the points to 25thou then turn the engine over till the rotor is pointing at no1 HT lead line up crank pulley to 10 deg then turn the distributor first clockwise a litlte till the points are closed set up your coil lead so you can see the spark jump to earth turn on your ign then slowley turn the distributor anti clockwise till the spark occours then tighten the distributor to check if it is right wiggle the rotor a little and the spark should occour. btw the easy way to check which cyl is no 1 firing if you look at the cam wheel there is a pointer that lines up to a dot in the head right at the 6 o clock position

reason i say this had a cortina come in while ago where the owner had be tutuing he had the mixture screw too far open which in turn need the idle winding up to run which then gets the carb open to the progression jets so ran way way to rich to the point where it would foul the plugs also found the timing was set at about 2 deg which caused it to backfire through the carb wot do your plug look like wet dry black

timing sounds bit retarded to me 25 thou points gap set timing at 10 deg static and try re setting your idle and mixture screws idle should be 1.5 to 2 turns open mixture around 2.5 to three turns mikture screw is on the bottom plate of the carb on a angle towards cyl 4 idle is on the side linkage

i had a copper composite metal head gasket made for a mini cost me $80 in tauranga bout 4 months back

also does the filter touch the booster causing a choking effect

my guess is the back one wet front dry if so float level just a tad high or the emulsion tube / jets arent tight enough wot do the plugs look like black on the wet one clean on the dry one?

sometimes there are more unused circuts left in the ribbon you can use to repair to i have found most have 6 or so wires and only use 3 or 4 of them coz they use the same ribbon for ones with steering wheel controls ect just unplug bag before trying to repair it dont take much to make them go bang

also if the bulb has been removed because the light stays on the usual fault with hondas is one of 3 things the seat belt catch.(most common) the resistor in the passengers side if no passenger airbag is fitted or the clockspring on the drivers side. In hondas and most cars all airbag looms and plugs are yellow sometimes just cleaning the plugs with contact cleaner can repair the faults too but if you clean the plugs just to be safe disconnect the battery.

you will need to use the escort mounts sump maybe right if came from a capri gearbox tunnel will probly be the issue if it was a manual will need a bit of massaging with a hammer and gearbox mount will need to be modified not a big job though

What is the legalty of lightening door frames on road cars like drilling lots of holes in frame with holesaw

they need a charge lamp generally you can buy single wire ones too http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/denso_alternators.html

yes and no with the alternator spinning the wrong way ,Yes it will charge but it will get hotter because of the way the fan is designed to run but has seen them work faultless if the are mounted in a location with heaps of airflow and for a small powerfull alternator look at a kabota tractor 60amp internal fan alternator i install them on race cars all the time http://www.ebay.com/itm/110961818668?item=110961818668&viewitem=&category=6755&vxp=mtr or one of these they are permanant magnet type so no wearing parts apart from bearings but are only 15amp http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/images/Kubota%20Alternator.JPG

on the van again has rear brakes

got some photos up on my build of the brackets and calipers (bigmatt4 4age escort van)

been a long time since i got to work on the van but have managed to get the rear discs sorted to fit 13" wheels. I have used s13 sylvia discs and aw11 mr2 calipers i had to machine the discs from 255mm to 245mm drilled pcd to 4x108 and have had 2mm removed from the rear of the disc flange used 6mm plate for my bracket and made 7mm spacers for caliper mounts to get alignment correct and not touching the wheel

finally getting back into the van been over 12 months had to get my brothers mini finished first. i have got the hilux diff in axles re drilled discs and calipers on and handbrake system sorted

will get some tonite for you

ive just done a hilux diff for my escort using s13 discs and aw11 mr2 calipers and they fit under standard 13" rohstyles with a small amount of machining pretty sure b1600 and hilux are a similar set up