spiderwebfx

Did some more fluffing around the last couple of days. I spent all day Saturday researching the wiring diagrams for the S12 and S14 motors and sensors to make sure I get the sensors right. On Sunday, I put a new plug on the S14 starter and alternator loom and a new one on the body loom so I can connect them together properly and extended the AFM wire so I can put it over the intake side. I've still got a handful more to connect up, but I might be done with them tomorrow. I also started the battery relocation. I've got the box in the boot, a 120 amp circuit breaker and a kill switch. Then the cable to the engine bay. Which connects to a terminal post from Jaycar to keep it all tidy. Have put brake fluid in. Unfortunately I have a couple of leaks. Anybody got any tips or suggestions to getting tapered fittings to not leak? Oil is in. Engine loom is in. Power steering fluid is in. Gear stick is in. Clutch fluid is in. I'm still trying to track down a S14 fan shroud before I put the radiator hoses on. If all is going to plan, I'm hoping to be able to turn the key and try and start it by this weekend. This'll be the first time I've had it running in the five years since I've owned it.

No. It's measured as PCD. It's the distance from the center of one hole, to the direct opposite side of the circle (half way between the two opposite studs). If you've measured 108 from stud to opposite stud, it's most likely 5x120. Edit/ this give a rough guideline to get the PCD with two adjacent studs: http://www.wheelfitment.eu/what-is-the-PCD/

Sorry to jump in on this, but do 4-link set ups normally have a panhard rod? Or is it quite common to not have them? edit// nvm, mines triangulated, that's why i don't have one.

Yeah, this is true. I'm only talking from my own experience I guess. I ran 2x 12" fans with custom sheet alloy shroud (that was sealed around the edges correctly) and found the factory viscous to be much more effective (in my specific application.) The factory shroud was also much, much better design than the sheet one I made up also. From what I understand, fans that pull air through are more effective than ones that push air through, but I guess that is also a matter of how much care you take when it is being set up. Anything is still better than nothing.

Electric fans are useless unless you run a good shroud. S14's and S15's are a good example, the factory viscous fan in them is 100x better than 90% of aftermarket electric setups.

Wow, you're still doing this unbelievably quick. Nice work.

So you've done all this work on it in one week? Wow.

Yeah, I'll need to at the very least run the cable from the engine bay to the boot shortly. I've got all the carpet out so I may as well put the cable in before I put the carpet back. Repco have some cable there, I think it's either 0 or 2 gauge? Does that sound right/sufficient enough? I've been through a few how to's, the problem is I haven't got the engine loom on the motor yet, so without physically comparing it, it's confusing for me.

Yay! Update.

So not much after my previous post I sorted my hoses out. I've got all the power steering lines, the clutch line and all the brake lines hooked up. Got the heater hoses hooked up. (Had to find a 19mm tail to 16mm tail adaptor that took up no extra room.) Then I broke up with my daughters mother, moved into a new house (again), lost all motivation to work on the car, or anything for that matter. Then I bought a spare parts car, still had no motivation to do anything so I haven't stripped it, or really looked at it for that matter. And now five months later, I did something I put the radiator in about two weeks ago. Had to slot a hole in each of the castor rod brackets and get new rubber mounts for the bottom and made aluminium brackets up for the top. A few days later I installed my Truhart castor arms I had just received (and took the shitty chinese ones out). While doing this I adjusted the left front camber adjustment on the bottom of the coilover )it's got a slotted hub carrier bolt hole) so that the tyre no longer rubs on the spring, and then checked on clearances for my steering. Apparently my right front tyre hits on the sway bar at full left lock. So I'll need to put some adjustable bolts on the LCA to limit the steering movement. Also rolled the rear lips up so my back tyres no longer rub. And cleaned some more carpet. I've gained a little motivation so might slowly be doing more little stuff until I can afford to get the other bigger stuff I need. (rear shocks, battery relocation, engine wired up, driveshaft made) And some photos for good measure. So the few things I need to sort out. How the f*** do I do a battery relocation, and what do I connect it to in the engine bay? Who's going to wire the motor up for me for SFA? And who's going to shout me the KYB AGX 743020 shocks from 'muricaa for me?

If you're talking about copper gaskets. Putting one in my old S14 made a huge difference. I replaced that damned thing 3x with Repco multi steel ones, and it wasn't until I spent twice the money on a copper one from Tauranga that it actually lasted. This was a T2 size gasket between manifold and factory turbo. It's similar spec to the aluminium one, where it's got a ceramic type internal. For memory it was $45 inc freight from Tauranga and I had to send them an old one to make a copy of. I could possibly find out who it was if you're interested? Or if my post is irrelevant, just ignore it.

Ah right, maybe I will make them then. Whats the requirements for mounting the driveshaft loops? I see the material requirements but can't find any specifications for washers/reinforcing the floor pan, if there is any.

Sweet, I asked because the last one I saw on Trademe was $180 for one. (Was a looonng time ago) No way was I going to pay that much for some basic steel and nuts and bolts. Looking now you can get two for $112, so it's not as bad. And probably worth it for the $ vs. time to make them myself.

Do the driveshaft hoops have to be bought premade? I know they have certain dimensions and what not, but can I make it myself out of steel plates/lengths/whatever?

S12's come both IRS and SRA. My project is SRA, my parts car is IRS I haven't actually measured to be honest, just sat the S13 driveshaft in and looked at it. Cheers for that, Hilux diff because 5 stud, LSD and disc brakes (converted to discs before I bought it). It will be a daily driver car, but will likely see the race track once or twice a year also. I think I'll be more worried about the exhaust then anything. There's bugger all room to tuck that up high in. S14 SR20DE motor, S14 5 speed box, diff ratio I think is 4.1. 225/45R16 tyres. Probably speed cut at 180kph. Cheers for that, my thoughts were the same with the "less moving parts, less to fuck out". But if the trade off is a major failure, then I'm not to keen. Thanks for the responses so far, based on what you guys have said so far two piece is the most likely option. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Especially with a driveshaft.

Whats your preference and why? It's for the S12. I've currently got a two piece S13 driveshaft to go in it. But because of the Hilux diff I have to change the flange yoke (if that's the right name) to suit. It is also has to be shortened slightly as well. So I've gotta get it modified, and then rebalanced, so I thought about going one piece instead. It'll cost a little more, (not much) but are the benefits worth it? Obviously it means that I only need one driveshaft hoop, and I can eliminate the hanger bearing (which would give me mounts for driveshaft hoop possibly? Depending on rules.) So, thoughts?

Any normal tyre shop should be able to do it. It's easier than doing a 4" hand trolley tyre. Pretty much a screwdriver, and some vice grips will do it though. Mix a little bit of dishwashing liquid and water together for tyre lube. To pull the valve through you normally use one of these: http://www.protekequipment.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/StemPuller.jpg Every tyre shop will have one, otherwise put the cap on (so you don't wreck the thread) and then try pull it through with pliers, be careful not to squeeze it to tight, and make sure you use the above tyre lube on it to help. I don't know what tyre shops are like down there, but if somebody brought in a tyre and a wheel (not on the scooter) I'd be doing it for $10 including the valve stem.

I'll also vouch for these. Put them on the front of my old S14 with Znoelli S12 rotors, stopped amazingly fast compared to the OE rotors and redstuff pads I had prior. Two track days and around 15000kms of daily driving on the yellowstuff's and I've pulled them out to put in my S12 with over half life still in them. (Yes they worked amazingly well for daily use as well) Also if you're interested, I'm going to be selling a set of 205/55R15 used Dunlop semi slicks shortly? They don't have much life left in them, but if they're not to big, they could be ideal for getting the feel of them.

I saw this running at Taupo today, looked real good and was pretty quick I thought. Nice job. I believe you're running the Toyo T1R's btw? If so, it'll just be that you are running road tyres to there limits that is causing the wear patterns on the them. They can't handle the heat like a semi-slick can.

I won't be able to make this one. Already got plans :/

So I've been shit at trying to attend, but would still like to make at least one. Would have to be family friendly as I have my daughter most Thursdays, and as long as people don't mind my work ute to cruise with, then I'm keen on those too. ('08 Hilux) Coming into summer are Saturday arvo or Sunday BBQ's at the lakes an option also?

Ahh if it's stickered for 5 tonne it'll be fine, I thought they were higher than that. SS's will allow you to be rated up to 7tonne. It may still be a bit tricky to find a SS drive tyre to suit though. They're aren't very common in NZ. Unless you're interested in these: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/trucks/parts-accessories/auction-764141709.htm Not really a full drive tyre pattern, but there's not a huge amount of options here. In Europe and US they're everywhere with 495/45r22.5's.

Get rid of the artilleries, they're a pain in the ass. (I'm a commercial tyre fitter.) Upgrading to 10stud hubs also gives you better brake options if you planned to upgrade them. If you plan to fill use it as a water truck, you won't get away with super singles on the rear, they're aren't allowed to carry that sort of weight on NZ Roads. Just put super singles on the front, and put 295/80's on the rear for the more staunch look. (385/65 front) TWL/Transpecs or Mikes Transport Warehouse in Hamilton can quite possibly supply new super single artillery wheels though. Also, this is fucking cool! Edit/// I outfitted this tow truck with the tyre and wheel combination on it. 385/65R22.5 steers on 22.5x11.75" wheels and 295/80R22.5 drives on 22.5x8.25 wheels. http://www.rotoruatowing.com/#!War-Machine-tow-truck/zoom/cypg/image11i3

Didnt make it either, was stuck cleaning my old house till 10:30pm...

Sweet. Little one will be tagging along too