SOHC

I almost scraped this when I was moving the shed, still after heat exchanger tube if anyone knows where to find it?

You could still tip the petrol in before they did the inspection, no one would know

My 76 2500 TC ran out of petrol once and I was given a 60L drum about 1/4 of kerosene, disconnected the rubber fuel line before the pump and had a bottle full, thing took a wile to start but ran and drove ok but knocked alot and made white smoke, wouldn't turn off with the key and I needed to hold my hand over the intake to stop the engine

I have seen alot of champion plugs do that

It actually looks like that plug has a hair line crack in the insulator

Yes the 2 dark patches are burnt, I am thinking of getting a new coil, this coil came with the ignition module and its hard on ignition components

Is the lighting escaping?

Whats going on here?

A guy was telling me he did some promotional work for when they were selling the Triumph 2500 in NZ and on the economy test he would put a milk bottle full of petrol into the oil witch would thin out the oil and then be pulled into the combustion thrugh the PCV system and make the economy a bit better.

Bloody handy, lifted the crank, motor mount and motor

Made a long boom for the engine lifter, its good for shit around the workshop but I wouldn lift a flathead with it.

Is this any use to you? You can have it, i ended up chipping one and couldn't find one then found 3, its the detent thing for the end of the shift drum

I am surprised they even allow one bevel box

No, gasket is only to stop oil weeping from shift rod holes, I made the bellhousing from chopping a 4 speed truck gearbox down, I put a gasket in originaly but not sure if that good to have one as it may cause it not to sit flat?

Yes threebond 1215 is good shit but its like $70 Tube

I got the gearbox back they totally stripped it and sed it looked really good as if it had been rebuilt recently and they sed they couldn't find any problems, it cost $100 for the job. I put some epoxy in the bad casting witch was causing the oil leak in the bellhousing. Should i put a gasket or silicon inbtween the bellhousing and gearbox or a gasket?

It would be nice if it did, I tried to thread the other end of a bolt but i can't keep the die straight even with the bolt in the lathe chuck and the tail stock on it

Where would i find some 7/8 UNC studs?

Gearbox is out, oil is definitely coming from those shift rods, a gasket will fix that, when I drained the oil it was full of brass, Gearbox needs to be fully stripped now.

You can buy a new mechanism for the clutch release from Mass Classics, not worth trying to repair the old one, people try to weld up the ramps to get more lift to stop the clutch dragging lol

The top photo is the old gearbox and bellhousing, I had a gasket in between the bellhousing and gearbox but I didn't do this with the new one when I milled everything up the casting wasn't as good and I think its weeping a tiny bit of oil out of those 3 holes for the shift fork rods into the dents in the casting witch works its way down and into the inside of the bell housing and makes a drip of oil under the car, this is disappointing because I fitted a new seal and gasket to the font bearing retainer, If this is the case i will just ignore it. Other than that it is going very well.

And never nod back at people riding Japanese bikes

Dose your bike clunk on the down change? I found i could avoid it if when the clutch is pulled in blip the throttle then change down, you sound like an arsehole but it works.

I forgot i had that front guard and I found a rear, also found another frame that has had one of the rear engine mounting lugs hacked out to fit some other engine that may be better to use as I may need to do that anyway.

Semi sealed units may look funny if they have the flat glass that sticks out, problem is the sealed beam units they sell now last about 10 mins