SOHC
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Everything posted by SOHC
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Started welding up the cracks in the rear guard.
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A new pair is $250, I have ordered them and a fork rebuild kit, got some McIntosh steering head bearings to, front end is going to be very nice
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I got rid of the later alloy hub wheel I had for this ealy one.
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I got a roadholder front end, its an early one, stripped it down and with out fail its fucked, I had some commando staunchens but they are too short, so have ordered some longer ones, some new bushes and seals should see it working again.
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Had to cut the rear lower engine mounting lug and move it up, and cut the front lugs down. All the frame mods to fit the big4 engine are done, just need to make the engine and gearbox plates.
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I could score you a 2L motor if you need,
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They probably got the letter to
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Got this recall letter for the Presarge witch I sold 6 months ago and its almost a 20 year old car.
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All back together now, its a huge amount of work to remove all the studs and clean everything and seal and install all 48 studs. I will heat cycle it once and re torque the next day, then drive it up and down the road then re torque it the next day and keep doing that till they settle down, probably have to do it 4 times.
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I have had a problem with coolant seeping out of the head studs, I took each stud out as I re torqued the heads and put on some locktite thread sealer, this did not work with the aftermarket studs, I am going to put silicon on the threads and also use copper spray on the gaskets this time, I would have used if i built the engine anyway. This engine was never intended to use antifreeze, my 1938 motor didn't mind it but I think that thing had alot of internal rust sealing it.
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The mk4 zodiac box it fairly strong but has a fine spline, a Mitsubishi truck clutch plate works,
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Got this back together a wile ago, gearbox was stripped and inspected and was fine, got a new drive shaft made, now all gearbox oil leaks are fixed apart from where it weeps from the sector in the top cover but I am not worried about that, misfire was a loose vacuum line to the distrubtor, thats fixed, onto the 3rd oil pressure gauge now as they keep failing, going to fit an industrial one soon as automotive ones are total crap. I have been so sick I have not been able to do much, its like tighten 4 bolts then go to bed.
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There should be an attachment for a special dialgauge that fits in the chuck, then you can clock upto one of the bearing surfaces
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The bronze bushes wouldn't be very hard to do, bolt the rocker cover on and bore the bearing tunnels oversize, the bearing at the far end has a stake to stop it turning, and the bearing behind the camchain sprocket had a flange, thing munt of been running like that for 30 odd years. Honda xr200 2valve engines have a steel bush on the end of the cam
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I had an XL250 motor sport that runs the cam in the head, someone had done a really nice job of making bronze bushes for both ends of the cam
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Ramming high amps into your battery will just make the plates fuck out faster
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I had a 7 year old battery that wouldn't even start a 4 cylinder work for another 3 years cranking a v8 after drilling holes in the top and putting in a spoon full of Epsom salts into each cell, I even sold the battery with a tractor in the end.
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Epsom salts and there is a thing you can connect across the terminals called a de sulpalter
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I just got offered JAP V twin blower, can put you in contact with the owner
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I almost scraped this when I was moving the shed, still after heat exchanger tube if anyone knows where to find it?
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You could still tip the petrol in before they did the inspection, no one would know
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My 76 2500 TC ran out of petrol once and I was given a 60L drum about 1/4 of kerosene, disconnected the rubber fuel line before the pump and had a bottle full, thing took a wile to start but ran and drove ok but knocked alot and made white smoke, wouldn't turn off with the key and I needed to hold my hand over the intake to stop the engine
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I have seen alot of champion plugs do that
