SOHC

The joys of owning a MX bike,

If its not suitable for you bike I will swap you for another one witch is witch has 3 wires for the stator, one to bat+ one to earth on the frame.

It was re branded and made in England and in the US and Australia, mine is the Australian model they used a lot of automotive components,

No mowing decks, it would of had 3 cylindrical mowers, I have cut all the mounts of the chassis so its only for towing now.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/business-farming-industry/farming-forestry/tractors/tractor-parts-accessories/auction-1473252936.htm A MF exhaust stack is pretty cheep but I think it will just get in the way and get ripped off on a tree branch

Yip I don't drink anything stronger than water, I have 2 KMS of drive way to tractor, and I can register it with a MR2B from and roll round town on it.

As far as I am concerned this is finished, fitted new starter solenoid, replaced the fuel pump with a B&S pulse pump as the Kohler pump was $400 fucking dollars, I had to make a blanking plate for the old mechanical pump. And I have fixed the wiring with all new connections and I wired the hour meter up, checked the tappets and rebuilt the carb. I still need a new air filter. There is one last job that can be done at a later stage and that is withdraw the rear axles and replace the seals, I will drive it into the shed at some stage and do that on the stands.

blackwoods are the most useless cunts on the earth

Where did you get that regulator / rectifie from?

Where would I find an AC Delco D203 ignition condenser in Auckland?

I fitted a new chain witch was a cunt of a job as it was too tight or too lose so I modified the ajuster so it had more adjustment, also I have fitted new belts and greased every bearing, in the drive line, I also re fitted the guards witch I have repaired, I need to get a starter solenoid as someone tried to wind on a nut with a different thread and broke the top off, the carb needs to come off to check the tappets and I will rebuild it wile its off. Riveted an old aluminum lunch box to those brackets on the LH side of the diff, spark plugs and shit can go in there or something, it makes it look less spindly, and I cut off the mounts for the main side mowers as this had triple gang mowers,

I could have told you that, I made the same mistake but I had to take the head and barrel off as all the wheels were on and in my rush I overlapped the oil ring and had to take the top end off twice.

Thanks, I might just fit a straight pipe and make a rain cap to save weight and money, the muffler on the tractor now is from an 1995 ford mondau so that can fuck right off. I have been looking and looking but I can not find an ignition condenser or fuel pump rebuild kit

What do you think about ditching that muffler for a a stack with a Coby for max tractor look?

I used a connecting rod from a Kawasaki for the seat pivot mount but it flexed to I welded a Holden rod next to that, the two brackets on the LH side of the diff I will mount my DC arc welder edit : I found an alloy box in my crap collection I will mount to those brackets.

Made a new grill and mounted the seat

$18 dollars each for wheel bearing kits, I put new bearings and seals in both sides and greased the kingpins, the old grease smelt really bad. The tractor has one of those suspension seats someone has welded on, it still works but its rusted out, I will wack that off, I was looking for a steel vintage tractor seat but they are like $150, I had the bottom half of this steel tank that had been turned into a blacksmiths forge turned into a seat, I have removed all that pope around the diff and towbar.

Front wheel bearings feel rough so I took the hubs off and there was water in there, bearings are shot but stubs are ok, they take a Holden style wheel bearing so a trailer wheelbearing kit will fix them. I filled up the diff with oil and it pissed out the ends of the axles, (fuck) and wheel bearings feel loose, I hope if I undo those bolts on the side of the diff the LH axle should pull out of the diff center with its bearing and hub and all will be reveled on how to get the diff center and RH axle out. also I cut all the crap the previous owner had welded to the rear around the tow bar, lots of 2" tube

Locktite superglue is good, at my old work we had miles of rubber in different sizes we could cut off some and make Orings

I got this Kohler K series motor for very cheep I just couldn't resist, its missing the flywheel and blower shroud but it looks to be the same as the one in the tractor, they are huge engines.

After I got the tire off it was even worse, I got a pair of rims from the mower shop but they were wrong in every way apart from being 8" and its all I could find so I cut them up and made some new centers from 1/4" plate, took way longer than I thought, and they didn't fit in my lathe so I had to use the turn table to find the center to mark for cutting it with a hole saw. I arc welded the centers in as the rims had some galvanizing and its hard to remove it all, and painted them with PA10 as I do with everything, I think they look pretty tractorey, After I got a MIG about 13 years ago I ditched my ARC but got this a few months ago for $60 and I like it very much, its easy to use unlike those shitty little ARC welders they sell for under $100 I just use the MIG on panel work

Thanks for the help but I ended up cutting them out my sellf, it was going to cost $120 and I was supplying the steel.

Where would I buy semi fluid grease? i need about 3 or 4 L suitable for steering boxes and a gearbox

Is the potbelly stove going in this?

Who here is the one to talk to about laser cutting ? I need 2 disks cut from 6mm plate