Popular Post kpr Posted May 7, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 7, 2017 pads welded on diff for hydro bumps. in the pic below the whole weight of the truck is on them. about 10-15mm travel left and they are super hard at this point. jumping up and down on the front of the truck, they move a little further. the first part of the travel is fairly soft, can push them down a bit by hand if put all my weight on them. Im not sure what kinda pressure they are shipped with, but they are tuneable by adjusting the nitrogen charge between 100 - 250psi. along with the coilovers, guessing im going to have to spend a bit of time getting it all to work together nicely. but should hopefully destroy the leaf spring setup out of the box . still have to fit limit straps and brake lines in there somehow.. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted May 16, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 16, 2017 Limit straps on may have an issue with inner guard clearance. fine when the suspension is fully compressed on both sides. but at full flex, have tyre to inner guard contact. because of where bumpstops are mounted. will likely never get this much travel,, so maybe a non issue. putting a rubber bumpstop on shock shaft, or cutting the inner guard some more will fix it, if it turns out to be a drama currently getting the outer towers sorted. passenger side almost ready for paint on bumps 27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted May 21, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 21, 2017 Towers done. Paint isn't really the same colour, but i'm sure it will all blend in through the first mud hole Gotta weld a bend to the compressor housing to clear the tower. other than that everything seems to be fitting 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 11, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 11, 2017 Not quite finished, but It goes 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 11, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 11, 2017 Seems to be working pretty good so far. got some softer springs on the way for the front. as its sitting a bit high. Now the front works better than the rear, and has shown up a few issues back there. is a bit harsh going over stuff compared to the front. Have adjusted the top spring lock out, so it stays on the softer spring rate till later in the travel, which has made it a little better. have got a few more things i can tweak, but will likely have to remount the rears for bit more up travel and add hydro bumps, to work as well as the front. thats not gonna happen anytime soon. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted June 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 17, 2017 Grass has been getting a little long. so time to give it a trim in other news, just been making a few things stronger, chassis panhard mount. added some braces to lower chassis links on the rear. pedal box was flexing the firewall/wiper tray even tho i took in all 9 of the factory bolt holes. added another bracket back to the cross bar. and hung the brake light switch off it grass trails p/s cap is out in the paddock somewhere 26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted July 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2017 wastegate pipe = success 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted July 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2017 secrets out, its actually steam powered 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted July 15, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 15, 2017 So just after getting home from the day above, 2 of the VR sensors in the CAS decided to spit their guts out. Was going to chuck some spares in and attempt some more heat shielding. but all the spares looked pretty pre cooked as well. location of the cas kinda sucks and most of them leak oil. Time to try something else and get rid of the cas altogether. Rangi'd on a stock vr sensor to read the teeth on one of the cam wheels. which is 36 tooth. then welded a single tooth to the cam wheel and used a rx7 abs wheel sensor (they are vr sensors ) to read it. Twisted some wires together and told the ecu to look for 36-1, rather than stock 24-1. boom started first go, timing was way more stable than the stock setup. pinned to the mark rather than the stock setup, which would jump around a little bit. Turns out a nice compact VR sensor isn't really a thing. so grabbed a couple of barrel style Hall sensors. was just enough room to mount a tooth on the back of the cam wheel and make a sensor happen through the backing plate, on the intake side 36 tooth trigger directly reads the cam wheel. mounting this one was pretty easy have temporary wired it up, works good so far. / do a skid 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted August 5, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 5, 2017 36+1 trigger setup seems to be working good so far. nice smooth rpm plot. Was attempting to check the tune, but fun ended pretty quick. above is a part throttle run, just to check the new trigger setup works thru the rpm range. more than half throttle and the below happens.. Its had a hard life. originally was in my trueno Have also moved the battery to the rear. in an attempt to move the weight rearwards and lower down. I put those ugly spring covers on. as the roost off the front wheels was pumping the whole spring full of a grass/mud combo 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted August 15, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 15, 2017 Turbo No# 3 Left - old turbo gtx2863r. Right - new turbo gtx2860r Gen II So new turbo is smaller, but later version, which on paper should flow the same. but spool better having a smaller compressor wheel. Yeah i hate that silicone elbow off the turbo too. but some diddle put a tower in the way. clutch is still broken. so no test run yet. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 9, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 9, 2017 New clutch finally in. it runs the 230mm ae101 4azge clutch, and there isn't much around for them. heaps for the smaller aw11 /ae92 225mm. ended up going with a toyota clutch plate and exedy hd pressure plate. holds the power fine but unsure how much abuse its going to like. New turbo seems to work all good. full boost threshold isn't alot different. but it seems more responsive at lower rpms. Been having boost creep issues. unsure if the old turbo was doing the same, as never really check it after i changed the manifold and wastegate pipe. should run around 10psi but it was creeping up to about 16psi. 16psi isn't really any drama for this engine. but driving slow doing 4wd stuff, it heat soaks pretty bad and has enough power to do what it needs. so keep it lower. Suspected it may have been the long wastegate pipe. so pulled the bonnet off and made a zoomie test pipe from next size up tube It dropped the peak boost from 16psi down to 13psi. so still creeping a bit, but i can live with that if it means i don't have to pull it apart again Made a new pipe to exit in same location as last one. runs the same 13psi peak as test pipe. old pipe 38.1 tube. new 44.5mm tube. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 17, 2017 Ok that was a fail ^ and a few more followed. Did some more runs and wasn't happy how unstable boost was. Put a bigger 40mm gate on it. inc bigger pipe off manifold Was just as bad, if not worse. Probably should have brought a 45mm and may have worked. Decided to try mount the gate on the turbo housing, before buying yet another wastegate Grill weld Grill cut a patch out of an old collector fixed Finally holds boost perfect now. 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 29, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 29, 2017 got 13psi dialed in, one day might get the wheels off the ground. not enough run up /too slippery here. looks like it wants to nose wheelie, due to the front weight bias and rear setup. but soaks up the bumps good made a new heat shield for intake. half finished here measured it up, pretty much bang on standard ride height. even with the extra 3inchs up travel in the front. 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted September 30, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 30, 2017 18 hours ago, kpr said: one day might get the wheels off the ground. rear setup needs alot of work before im doing that again ^ needs a bit more rear up travel and some hydro bumps. then dial out some anti squat, so doesn't send the ass up in the air so much. didnt really build it for jumps, but its pretty fun 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted October 22, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2017 Pulled the font diff apart to replace the axle seals, as one had been a little leaky for ages. Found the kingpin bearings were pretty tired already, after replacing them when i got the truck. so got an eliminator kit that replaces them with soild steal. just need to fire some grease in them ever now an then Been messing around with the rear suspension a bit more. pretty much come back to what i thought at the start. Rear shocks are too hard, both compression and rebound / need more weight in rear. chucking some weight on the tray makes ride a whole lot better. ideally moving some weight from the front to rear would be best. starting to run out of options, but do have a plan in mind that should get it working better 1psi rear tyre pressure helps too.. 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted November 24, 2017 Author Share Posted November 24, 2017 New parts arrived . These are for the rear. currently has foa's, which pretty much the cheapest coilover you can get. they are also valved too stiff, both compression and rebound. so the rear bounces rather than soaking up the bumps. Decided to start with the same on all 4 corners before getting into shock tuning/re-valving, comparing apples to apples etc.. hydro bumps are same 3" travel as run on front. rear currently just has some rubber bumps. Plan is to move the diff forward, by shortening the 4 link. then mount the coilovers off the back of the diff. this will help the situation in a few ways; Mount coilovers for more up travel (around 5inch). fit hydro bumps so they act on top of the diff. a touch more weigh will act on the rear suspension 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted November 29, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 29, 2017 Old vs new New shocks the reso hoses point up and would have fouled the current cross bar. so made a new bar which ties into the actual shock mounting point. then cut the old one off The new shocks also have a narrower mounting width, fixed that at the same time top mounts finished Cut old mounts off diff have shorten the top links so far. bottom links next, then can figure out the bottom shock mounts for correct ride height/ travel Last time on the old bumps.. 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted December 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 2, 2017 Diff has gone forward 75mm. wheelbase of the truck is back to about standard now. from memory the front diff has been moved forward 50mm. so yeh, 15mm shorter than factory, basically nothing. shortened lower links Plug welded shock mounts; 3 inch lower than they were before., because the new coilovers have an inch longer body (same travel) plus another 2inch drop to get it to sit lower and more up travel. I still have to get softer springs again though. due to the coilovers having a bigger shafts than the old ones, they displace more oil when compressed which acts on the nitro charge a bit like an air shock. =jacked these bits are what the hydro bumps will act on. had to make some interesting shapes to box it all in around what was already there. without it looking too much like a tacked together abortion 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kpr Posted December 5, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted December 5, 2017 so much welding hydro bump cans welded on. pretty sure the truck will snap in half before these fall off got most of the diff done. bit more welding and limit strap mounts to go 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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