mjrstar

Is it safe to assume you fixed this before the cams went in?

I'm all good with the current safety inspection of older cars, one thing I though.... I think there should be slightly more leniency for the testing of brake imbalance on old historic /classic.. I want the convenience of going to a vtnz, but I don't want the ballsache of having to get a 50 year old braking system to be as accurate and repeatable as a modern day equivalent when the car weighs under 700kg and probably couldn't do a 17 second 1/4 mile..

could you maybe make 2 halves from some MDF, then use that to press the shape into aluminium and then weld together, if you get some O state alumimium its very workable...

it might depend a little bit on just how wild the cams are, i have found with an air flow metered engine you can get away with a bit, certainly more than you can on a MAP sensor engine. You'd want to be sure it has piston to valve clearance, and see if the cams are designed to run close to base cam timing, i dropped some smallish kelfords into my old evo on stock cam gears, and it didn't really have much affect on AFR's, but I can confirm it did in fact go hard for what it was.

Would something like the top tank off this work? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/mitsubishi/radiators/listing/4647905590 I have one with a mystery leak that I couldn't be bothered trying to solve so I just got a replacement rad..

^^ yeah 100% hf start if you are learning tig. Otherwise you will give up.

Convert the k24 to run Volkswagen dsg, there are kits.

^^about a grand give or take, there is a pretty consistent supply on face crack but I guess supply will dry up one day..

The golf R32 engine has intrigued me, I haven't done any real research, so it's probably a garbage idea for some reason, and is probably not ideal for high rpm, but from a capacity vs physical size, it could be alright... it seems like a likely candidate for a +t conversion, just check out the head gasket surface area between the bores, and the number of head studs.. (2 things not easily changed on an engine)

cool car, hopefully you can rescue it! that cylinder head is probably 1st gen B16a (the cam cover is anyway).. P30 - B16a P72 - b18c black top (i don't think its one of those unless the inlet manifold has been modified to fit) P73 - B18cr

^^ good point, I had long body in by brain, even after the @keltik comment.

i bet there are piles of falcon injectors from turbo barras that have been upgraded, even the non-turbo ones might be around 300cc? but DYOR

Had a friend's ford territory that did that..one of the main relays was brown inside and occasionally it would only let about 8 volts through.. quite trickey to diagnose, uncool for her when it shuts everything off and every warning on the dash starts scrolling through..

After some poking and prodding I decided it was play in the inner end of the tie rod, not a lot, but some... I do feel like a bit of a scumbag for reusing the steering rack boot and outer tie rod end, but they passed my inspection, it did at least get a new lock tab.

Gah I don't want to diagnose something I just want to fit new parts and get on with my life.