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Everything posted by yoeddynz

  1. That combination of hot dip galvanising and Hong Shin 175/80 never fails to be the cherry on top for a potential award winning show car.
  2. That field out front would ideal for croquet, which would go well with cheese and wine and the french shit Dylans talking about
  3. I can post you my oxy torch tip files....
  4. Well... at least having carbs means you get to generate pretty patterns It is a shame that re-cert costs the full whack, so I believe, even if it's just one thing that's been changed. That was my one gripe and issue I raised when the lvvta did their survey a while back.
  5. I thought you could do injection so long as you dont have an increase in power of more than 20% ? If it were mine Id just slap the injection on there and run it. Im sure any half decent friendly garage wouldn't give a shit. Mine wouldn't. All you are after is better running eh.. not mega power.
  6. Yeah- some of them hardly get any winter sun.
  7. Did you have your bike down there? Trails in good nick?
  8. Hopefully this year!!!! Great drive down to a great place, with great people, great biking, food, hotpools. Maybe even snow!??
  9. It's all finished ages ago and the owner loves it. Takes it camping etc. Has now got some posh fold out tent thing on the roof.
  10. Hiya and cheers. the hatch was made by one of old boys at that workplace while I was away on holiday. He did a great job. As for the paint job.. not sure on cost but it would not have been cheap. There was a shit load of prep work and a lot of paint on there. You can always message the painter- Shane at Custom Colours, Nelson. he has a face book page here... (copy and paste url into search bar?) https://www.facebook.com/Custom-Colours-Nelson-727054040699835/?ref=br_rs Alex
  11. Ha! I was more thinking a light all alloy V6. But hell.. I dont think many piazzas come up for sale at all now. That seems fairly cheap? If its cert'd then does that mean it can be made road legal?
  12. Damn its looking good. Piazzas... I always used to see them only as parts bins for Chevettes and sadly that's the way many have gone. Now I see yours and think 'wow.. I'd like one of them' With a V6..
  13. It looks so lush. I was very tempted by this myself but.... no spare coin. Maybe one day.. but by then they will finaaly be hit with Mazda tax and out of reach.. Anyway- I have this that I'd bought in the UK at some random swap meet. Might be of help! I want to keep it but totally happy to post it up to you. You use it/copy it and when finished post it back. PM me your address.
  14. Edit; It seems to be that many images I had hosted by imageshack are missing. I have tried to retrieve them back but they are gone gone.. curse word. Plus image shack now want monies to host photos. So I'm slowly trying to sort them out but many images are just gone and I cant find backups on my laptop Hello! I have owned this little Viva for a while but only finally got around to actually working on it. I have finally started getting a proper move on with it in the last month or so. Getting excited about having it ready for summer shows. Last year while still living in England I bought an old rusty Rx7 from a friend who owns the oldest Mazda dealership in the UK. It was a rare Elford Turbo series 2 rx7. The Elford Turbo was a Mazda approved conversions by a dealership in Bournemouth. It only runs at 5psi- enough though to add 40 ponies and a load more torque. Which is nice. Here is some info on it... not a lot out there really. http://books.google.co.nz/books?id=UDHl8kXiaccC&pg=PA59&lpg=PA59&dq=elford+turbo&source=bl&ots=QcnD4WApUs&sig=FgrchpIzSVOqfgOqTtjaP1GsDDM&hl=en&ei=KlDES9HbK47AMtWs5K4O&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAUQ6AEwADgU#v=onepage&q=elford turbo&f=false He had rebuilt the engine fully using all new parts (handy when you own a dealership eh) a few years back but the body work had become tired so I got the car at a very nice price. Engine is barely run in. By the time I had sold loads of other bits and pieces from the rx7 (koni shocks, springs, interior bits) I made back enough money that all the parts I needed only cost me £50!!! £50 for a rebuilt engine...I was very happy. So all the parts went in a container back to NZ. I had also got some spax shocks before leaving- spax were just 5 miles up the road from where I lived so it was rude not to. My Viva started off as a standard deluxe with the little 1100 engine. This just had to go. It was burning a lot of oil (about a pint every 100 miles) and was no fun at all. I then fitted a 1660 ford xflo from an escort. Itbhad the sport cam, brand new weber32/36, brand new bestek electronic ignition setup. Ford engine going in... Engine mounts lined up nicely.. It ran very well indeed but still felt a tad agricultural compared to the rotary engines I had become used to. While I was fitting the xflo and the engine bay was empty I slung a rotary in there just for a look. I knew as soon as I slung the 12A into the bay that a rotary would be a nice conversion. The gearbox mount sat bang in the middle of the original g/box support and there seemed plenty enough room in the bay for exhaust building etc. Good clearance around the tunnel. http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g226/yoeddynz/gboxmountbangon.jpg[/ So after a while of driving around with the xflo I decided to crack on with the conversion to rotary. I sold the ford engine to a fella with an escort looking for an engine. Got really good money for it too! He came round and after seeing the engine run helped me pull it out... I bought some goodies from a fellow Vauxhall nutter here in NZ including an 1800 axle, big 3.3 Vauxhall Ventora front discs on modified lower arms, a brake servo. I got these seats as I just couldn't get along with the originals. I don't really like the idea of losing my neck from someone rear ending me. It does and probably will happen so head rests are a must for me. So out with these old seats... Then in with these Momo seats. They are out of an Alfa GTV and match almost perfectly!- I'm really happy because its not often I see modern seats with the 'fluted?' style of cover to match the rear seat. Colour match is almost spot on too! I have now removed the seats and my original mounts as I will have to redo the mountings for when it comes to being certified. I have also had to deal with some rust. Just a bit on one arch. I cut it out and welded fresh steel in. As always it turned out to be worse than I first thought so I'm glad I've done it now!!! Its all painted now. There is one little bit on the offside wing, a little bubble, that I am going to leave. I'll paint behind it with epoxy paint and see how long it takes before the skin breaks. I don't want to touch it now because I'll never get a decent match on the paint for that area. I shall treat it as a little experiment as interested to see how long it stays confined/encapsulated by the paint.
  15. As promised... look at that paint dry.... Battery box is all done. Forgot to take photo of wooden lid and a strap to hold it down, made from the nylon belt from some old endura bike shorts. I knew it would come in handy one day.. I couldn't resist..I had to cut open the filter for a look. Wow.. Ok.. so yeah.. that'll be a bit blocked then... I refitted the tank, added a new line so now the fuel rail return runs straight to the main tank and the overflow from the surge tank runs into the other new tank fitting. I ran the system through to clean it before connecting to main rail feed. Started car.. ooohhh. Much quieter and seems a bit smoother. Popped the car outside and plugged the laptop in. Watched it warm up and waited till it was off the warm up enrichment. Idle was tad out so a tweek here and there. Its better but more importantly it should remain consistant. I still have the lean out idle surge in the first half minute after starting the hot engine when its been sat a while. I have suspected for a while that this might be due to heatsoak from the hot bay/radiator area into the inlet pipe where the inlet temp sensor sits. Maybe it sees a much higher temp and alters the mixture? I dont know? The temp sensor is plastic bodied and insulated from the alloy by some foam. Hmmm. I need to work this out as its annoying. Some one suggested ages ago to turn off the 'use inlet temp at startup' feature.. but that would only affect the fist startup and few seconds after? Its starts fine as is, hot or cold, but just starts to stumble up and down for a half minute. Any ideas? You can tell me here... Anyway.. I decided that the car was a bit dirty and was due a wash. The evening was warm so Kevin the cat and I gave it a clean. Kevin actually only played in his bowl of water, chasing sticks. I cleaned the car. I might even apply some wax on it in the morning since its so clean...
  16. Ok.. so after having typed all that the night before and having had some good replies in the tech thread I decided I needed to bench test it and do some chin scratching. I'm glad I did. I found the main problem. out from car and jury rigged up on bench... I discovered that the lift pump was hardly dribbling anything out. Hmmmm. Whats that pre filter like then??... oh.. I removed the filter and wow- proper flow again. I'm amazed the engine was able to run at all!!! So Hannah was heading to town (the big smoke) and would pick me up a new filter. I then decided that while the pumps were out I might as well pull the tank out and add a second return so I have options. First thing was to make things safe before I touch the tank with items of spark or flame. I taped the tank filler onto the trusty old Hiace exhaust and ran it until the tank was purged out of traces of fuel or vapours.. I machined up a little fitting with a nice flat thin section that would provide a good surface area for solder.. I soldered that in place and sat the tank aside. Now since the tank was out I thought it might be a good time to get rid of the horrible large ugly plastic battery box taking up space in the boot and do a similar recessed box like I did on the wagon. I measured the battery and made a box.. Then I cut a big hole out of the boot floor. I did it in that order because my Co2 bottle is about empty. I did not want a large hole that I could not fill. The box is in place now and just needs some paint. I'll continue this very exciting update tomorrow with a photo of some paint drying
  17. Hi.. its been a while. I blame a rusty old Hb wagon and a needy cat taking all my attention. So i had been discussing some fuel issues with this car in the DIY fuel injection thread. I'd found the main problem but Ive continued on with some other work so an update was possible. (Please ignore the next wall of text if you'd already read the stuff id written in the above mentioned thread over the last two days.) Well then..back to this old thing. Here comes lots of words... For ages, actually since I put the V6 in, my current fuel pump arrangement has been like this... But for quite some time it has been a bit noisy especially when its hot outside. One time when arriving at my parents place in Blenheim on a stinking hot day (maybe 35 degrees..not Aussie hot but hot enough! ) and moving the car about on their hot asphalt the engine started idling lean. I felt the surge tank and it was really bloody hot. What I figured back then was that the hot fuel returning from the fuel rails was going back into the surge tank and the engine was not drawing enough at idle to bring in fresh cold fuel from the tank. This is possibly compounded by the fact that the surge tank is filled by a low pressure high volume Carter pump I had been using when the car had the Rotary. So on that day I ended up making the fuel table richer at idle to compensate and that worked fine for when the day was hot as but usually it just means the idle is too rich. I finally had got around to putting the Viva up on the hoist and having a look at things. I decided to add a tee to the return line went from the regulator on the rail to the surge tank. I then ran a line direct to the the return on the main tank and connected the overflow from the surge into the spare input on the tee. This did not work. In fact the pump was way noisier and engine ran lean. So I tried running the return straight back into the main tank and blocked off the overflow. I figured the surge tank would still fill up as any air would get drawn through. But no.. air does not sink... So that didn't work either. I've connected it back the way it was as I was in dire need to go for a strop over the hill to show off the car to my cousin. I took a photo and this what its currently like- you can see the brass tee I'd added when mucking about... After doing more research (that would be looking at stuff on google..) I have noted that almost all surge setups are like mine. So they all have the same potential issue of rising fuel temps within the surge tank. To me it makes more sense to have the return to the main tank.. so long as you have a lift pump that will always keep up with demand and keep the surge tank full. But the surge will still require a overflow to purge air out and that needs to go to the same return pipe on the main tank. I don't think I can run the return from the rail into a tee on the overflow line that goes from the surge to the tank because the higher pressure would override the lift pump pressure and prevent it filling the surge. Man that's a tricky one to type..or picture. I figured I could add a second return into the main tank and run the rail return into that? All I know is that I need to stop the hot fuel going back into the surge. I don't really require a huge surge tank as the car does not see any D1 hardcore action. But if the main tank is low its nice to know I wont get any starvation out of a tight set corner heading up Takaka hill for example.
  18. Plus there are a couple hooning about my region that are definitely Bogan spec. But not mighty wagons..
  19. six on the floor. Nah..doesn't work eh. He could remove the 1st/2nd OD limit switch and be... Eight on the straight!
  20. Just a gentle nudge of Hannah's post in here... Glad to see you scored this one Neal! I remember spotting it up for sale ages back on the Chch based trump club site and posting up somewhere on OS.. I then noted you gave the post a like. Trump wagons...so lush. Man this one so reminds me of the S wag we had while in the UK... Carmine red? Edit; what a crap photo. All focused on the bloody leaves. Sadly we took very few photos of that car even though it was our daily for bloody ages and saw a lot of miles from it. The nice fella ,Collin Radford, on the Truimph fanboy facebook group bought it from us and its still going strong.
  21. Yeah what nominal said. Open nipple, get assistant to push pedal down and hold it down, do up nipple and then assistant lets pedal up. Repeat. If the system is completely new then bench bleed the master first. If its in the car then crack open both outlets at the master, push pedal down, hold, tighten outlets, release pedal. Repeat until its just fluid. Usually only a few strokes. Otherwise it can be an arse trying to get the master to push anything. When bleeding the wheel cylinders/calipers watch the clear tube you've put on on the nipple. It takes a second or two for the master cylinder to 'refill' after a push. If you're hasty and crack open the nipple straight after the assistant has let the pedal up you'll see the fluid getting drawn back a little. So just wait a couple of seconds before opening the nipple. Yeah as others said- start at the furtherest away wheel and work in. (having bled the master first if needed)
  22. Yep that be air. Describe your bleeding process please.. Same colour as my second trump. Monkey shit brown. Its lovely
  23. Cool!!!! Another mk1. Watching this with interest
  24. OS club Triumph. Neal is the parts man. Any mk1's coming into your yard of hope Neal?