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87Creep's 90s jdm fanboyism projects


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Obligatory Barry sharn ~ Unfortunately I got into owning and playing with cars late, early 20s, before that I had a strict upbringing, no old cars no beers go to university catch a bus finish in the clubs by 1am etc, and my first car was a 04 Swift but we wont talk about that!

Let's kick it off with my oldest OS thing I've owned so far. Its young by OS standards but I will eventually grow a pair and go full carb and solid axle.

A 1987 Prelude 4WS Si! Auto, sunroof, 197000kms!

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My 96 WRX - then used daily - was leaking coolant and I needed a daily. A normal person would get something reliable, wof reg, maybe even finance a modern thing. Not me! I went and bought a prelude that hadn't had a wof/reg in 8 years because I thought I loved OS Hondas and it was amazing. 

Admittedly I studied and worked part time in 2019, so when I did drive this like an idiot it was only on weekends. Admittedly did take it out for a cheeky drive or two but the fuel gauge wasn't working, probably because the fuel sender unit was rusted bad.

I then routinely got a reliable daily and loaded this thing up on a trailer and sent it to scrap after parting most of it out. 

It was a great learning experience. The USDM manual was super in depth and helpful as I replaced the naffed main relay that someone had rangi'd a power wire from battery to fuel pump, no longer having to disconnect battery every time. There were wire taps all over the show, and corroded plugs causing electrical issues that I managed to sort.

I did flush the brakes on it, fit new chinese tyres and a battery, but that's as far as I got. 

I knew it had rust around the sunroof and the tails but damn there was a lot under the wiper cowl. Plus it had allegedly had the tags/chassis codes cut and replaced.. a mate said it looked dodge. 

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The engine also leaked oil profusely, mainly from the rear seal and the sump rtv. I even made the mistake of touching the high pressure power steering line and it pissed so much fluid over my alternator it rekt it.

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Didn't have much in the sills/pillars etc but I was a bit err about trying fab/buying replacement panel$$$, my decision was made easier when I went to strip the engine bay and attempt removing the b20a5, and also turbocharging options being limited. 

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My manual G-limited (NA) sw20, got it in 2015 for 2800 with 197000kms. 

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Got it to learn manual in, learned how to do oil changes and other basic stuff with. At this point I spent alot of time online reading speedhunters etc and watching mighty car mods. Admittedly fell into the RWD>everything trap.

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Only mods are re003/s001 potenza tyres, Rays Versus Valvoles 17x8.5 (only on rear, one front got murked hitting something hard), Bill Stein OEM black shocks, eibach pro kit springs, and a Border front bumper.

Spent the next 3 years driving like a dick, had a few crashes and ended up in a ditch which led it to sit neglected for a while. 

Hired out a ute and read the contract after "do not use for towing vehicles" and then picked up a car trailer from hirefool and promptly tied it down like I knew what I was doing. 

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Now it's back home, I'm in the process of repairing it. One side was dented, I've bogged the rear quarter, replaced the door and guard. The other side is sweet apart from a few small dings.. but the front suspension took a hit and the wheel+tyre got rekt.

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I've replaced tie rod mount, LCA, but have to fix the subframe mount for the lca as it bore the brunt of the impact. I'm gonna try hitting it back straight.

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Currently have to finish small bogging, sand+prep and prep my shed for paint. Got some repairs around the windscreen including glass too, but gonna do it in a nice red. Maybe current model corolla red? Mazda soul red is a nice colour but pity nearly every current mazda is soul red. 

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After the lockdown (first lockdown to those in Auckland lol) I decided enough was enough and got the most reliable car I could think of without going too boring. 

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Nz new 4AFE powered ae101, 5 speed manual with 267000km for 1200. Bought a VIP intercity ticket to wellington thinking I would be getting leather seats and reclining spaces, all I got was a rude driver and to sit upstairs. 

Turns out it had a full service history book and had been looked after which was cool. After a sketchy winter hoon through the desert road on 175 profile cracked/old chinese wofable tyres I fitted the wheels from my prelude with my brand new 195/65 chinese tyres, gave it a cut and polish, changed all filters+oil coolant and spark plugs. 

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It currently gets approx 15km/l

I've since fitted 35% tints, tardme DRLs and a front lip that was going to be binned at work. Lip is just a bit of fun for now, yes it's fugly but I like it. Will tidy up the wiring and properly align the drls later.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been working on my MR2 because I want to sell it, dont think I mentioned that but I am repairing it to sell. Hopefully proceeds go to a house deposit, or I get to spend a little on mods/buy something OS

After consulting a few panelbeater bros and mixed responses like "that's fuckt" and "just sand it and paint black bro" I got the response I was looking for in a wheel alignment expert, he said the damage to my lca mount wont be too much of a problem. 

So I promptly got to straightening it out a little, hit it with some steel rod and a 3lb sledgehammer. It made a difference, though not 100%. Did touch up some surface rust with a grinder and wire wheel followed by brunox and under seal.

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Also will try soaking these radiator support brackets in white vinegar, see how it goes. 

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Dodgy fuses

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Also stripped the side, could partially see how bad it was but now get the full picture. Note drivers side for comparison. 

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I've then got the factory service manual for this car and gone and measured the chassis dimensions to determine how bad things are. They say 3mm is the tolerance. I've written down where mine varies. I'm not yet done measuring everything but I will get there, will also macgyver up a decent ruler with two adjustable sharp point things for better accuracy.

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The plan now is to get a beefy slide hammer and pull out the damage on the lower a pillar, see what else I can do etc and then remeasure and hopefully it's better. If it's still not good then, then I will invest in a portapower and find a tree/pole to help pull things out. I think the telltale signs are that seam sealer/spot welds have been adjusted, and theres a small hairline crack in the factory underseal just at the start of the floor pan. 

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TBH, I know what I need to do with the MR2 but I'm kinda over it right now as I did want to get it painted before it gets too cold. Now I'll just pull/attempt to the damage out and hopefully get chassis sussed and just park it in storage while I collect parts/tools/spend on other shit over the winter. No point in stripping it if I'm towing it, best to be safe with working lights etc.

But with recent developments I decided f**k it and...

I finally shelled out for genuine parts, and against the grain didn't go the chinese fleabay route.

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HKS High performance air induction super mega flow reloaded! Lol I've pined over HKS forever despite being warned in many a youtube review reporting them as bad for filtration etc and just overall sucking compared to others.

I got it from redline performance for $149, i bought the Civic EG6 kit. The throttle body is 2.5" so run an adapter to 3". I adjusted the bracket and just drilled a 10mm hole in the hose for my air temp sensor; it's more like 13mm at its widest so shouldn't be leaking as its jammed in.

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The initial plan was to go hunnitz and bore out the above hole for a big blingin 3" alloy pipe to put the filter in behind the bumper, but upon consultation with wof virms/lvvta/cert thread on OS I decided best to stay legal for now.

Couldn't help myself during the week though and got this from China

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Will route flexi piping through said little hole and hopefully it is sufficient.

Took it for a hoon tonight, and wow 10/10 impressed with the results. I guess it may have made some small gains performance wise... but sound wise it sounds fucking mint, wide open throttle in 2nd/3rd is just really deep and loud, but cruising (yep I've got stock exhaust) it is still quiet which is to be expected which is fine.

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  • 1 month later...

SW:

I've decided that I'll get the chassis straightened up professionally at work. Hopefully it all goes to plan. Currently, I've just been focusing on getting it "sorted". That entails sussing out the suspension, as younger me installed lowering springs to see what it'd look like (post-crash), without doing it right. 

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So far I've installed:

3/4 strut boot kits (repco messed up my order)

4x sway bar end links (from rock auto, old ones were seized)

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Waiting on:

Spring insulators, dust seals, brake hose clips (Amayama) Tie rod outer, ball joints, caliper repair kit, caliper slide boots, rear pads (Rock Auto) Need: gear knob, 2nd hand rh wing mirror and lhr strut mount 

I found that one side rear brake pads had severe uneven wear, so I'll rebuild that. 

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The plan is to have it ready enough that it can be driven round the yard under it's own power, and be alright to be towed there with a rope.

Also re-painted my calipers while they were out, as well as finished up some bog jobs and covered them with 1k primer

 

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AE101: 

A mate told me the rest of my engine bay looked dirty with clean parts hanging off one end 

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Called up my old $4 friend can of motortech underseal to help, followed with 2k clear

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Did the intake manifold and exhaust heat shield in high temp black 

Installed my pipe thing 

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Replaced old brake fluid

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Enjoyed some low speed hoons

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Downloaded an app called "PerfExpert", it's an app that using a lot of parameters and calibration allows you to turn any quiet straight country road into your own personal street dyno.

Using 98, this is what I achieved: 

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I think I got better more accurate results on a later go at it as this was my first. But last night I checked my ignition timing with the goal of advancing it by a couple of degrees to see if this (which is commonly discussed as a way to increase power) would work for me. 

Unfortunately I was running at 0deg BTDC, whereas factory spec is +10deg BTDC. I wasn't able to get it beyond +10 due to the limits of the adjustment brackets. 

Took it out for a blat on +10deg and on 98:

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Great success! I recommend getting this app for the price of a box or maccas share meal as it is more accurate than butt dyno measurements and you can work out if changes you make make any difference. 

So, I will do more testing with 98!

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