Kiwibirdman Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 On my EJ Holden I am trying to get the Commodore fuel sender to drive the original fuel guage The commodore sender is 30 ohms full and 300 ohms empty, checked with a multi meter. The EJ gauge is 0 ohms full and 30 ohms empty. Any bright ideas on how to make it work? The first thought I had was to run a 33 ohm resistor in parallel with the sender and this will give me a gauge that shows about half when it it full and empty when empty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Just checked the gauge it is 0 ohms empty, 30 ohms full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 I took apart my mitsi sender and made the commodore gubbins fit it. You could do the reverse. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 13, 2020 Share Posted April 13, 2020 An option that is potentially easier than Tortron's could be to make a little intercept box. Use an arduino (you'll need a decent voltage regulator on it or car voltage will eventually cook it, I used a little DC-DC converter so the Arduino would always see 8 v) and simply set up the fuel sender as a potentiometer analogue input to the arduino and send an output signal through a mosfet using PWM to the gauge. I did that to display LPG level on a standard old fuel gauge on a Corolla. The benefit of this system is that you can program any input and output curves to it. Downside is that you need to have a little box somewhere (probably behind the dash is best as there will be a ready supply of 12V). Items needed: 1x Arduino nano or clone https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000586613339.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2e5bf028BsjONU&algo_pvid=5d0bc310-4ff4-45ea-b908-da1e8c7b15f3&algo_expid=5d0bc310-4ff4-45ea-b908-da1e8c7b15f3-0&btsid=0ab6f81e15867447307592645e4d3f&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 1x DC-DC converter https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973482064.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.7777791bI4SPpo&algo_pvid=0749269d-f8af-4579-afd2-9fa90bbee1e8&algo_expid=0749269d-f8af-4579-afd2-9fa90bbee1e8-2&btsid=0ab6f83115867447884693702e6729&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ 1x Logic level mosfet https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32968232684.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.395f6f65IfExFi&algo_pvid=bd61d7d6-358b-483f-8c37-720beb18b3d7&algo_expid=bd61d7d6-358b-483f-8c37-720beb18b3d7-7&btsid=0ab50f6215867448273601488ef837&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ Some little box A resistor, 10k or 100k or whatever you have laying around Some wires and soldering gear Can be wired similar to this, but you can ignore the power switch for the motor (gauge) and diode as the gauge isn't a particularly inductive load: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Thanks for the input guys. When we emerge from Jacinda's Socialist Hell I'll go for a drive and get the original sender out of the original tank. Not sure what state that will be in. The other option I thought about is to give Robinson instruments a call and see if they have a 0-30 ohm rheostat available. Using a new one would be a good idea. I know fuck all about Arduino, might be time to learn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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