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Naoks

Dio ZX AF35

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Few things I have noticed that Exhaust tail end is welded, the rear tyre is fitted wrongly, the case is covered by Petrol and oil, it should have a 7.2hp engine but been replaced with a 6.3hp E/g, the front tyre is worn out, the LED light of the rear spoiler almost come off.

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Removed all plastics then opened the crank cover to check the belt, pulley, weight rollers and clutch.

Most of the parts except clutch are worn out and I decided to replace them. Why did the previous owner put the tube tyre? That is a tubeless rim:mellow:

And I changed mission oil and  Put 4st Castrol engine oil.

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I have taken out the old valve and have put a new one. you do not have to buy a special tool to put a valve, just put  a nut and pull the nut by using pliers.

Put new tyres on. I have chosen Michelin S-1. Then cleaned the front break caliper with a tooth pick. I could have used pick tool but I have prevented myself damaging the caliper.

When I put the rest of rubber parts, I used a Hex key to put then put reasonable amount of silicone grease.

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Yes, of course I needed to replace the master cylinder piston. I have taken off the rubber cap then I needed to remove the circlip .

I had a 90 degree circlip pliers which didn’t work so got a pair of pliers at repco ($16 they are cheap, but I still had a difficulty removing the circlip:()

  and have used the 180 degree attachment.

After I put the new piston, I put the new rubber cap with some silicone grease.

At the same time, I replaced the 3 bulbs for the speed meter as well. Got two 3w bulbs from repco and one 5w bulb was a leftover from my previous project.

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Checked the plug, found the previous owner put BP7HS , but I will put a BR6HSA that is the factory standard. Bought a BR7HS- 10 plug just in case.

I have also purchased a bottle of High quality oil. 

 

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Nice project man! I’m 99% sure I have a Koso Variator, 5 gram rollers, Koso clutch, Koso clutch bell housing, Koso clutch centre spring. 
 

ill have a look on Sunday to check for sure as they’ve been sitting under my house since uni days and I’m now never going to use them. 
 

let me know if your keen?

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1 hour ago, Abarth said:

Nice project man! I’m 99% sure I have a Koso Variator, 5 gram rollers, Koso clutch, Koso clutch bell housing, Koso clutch centre spring. 
 

ill have a look on Sunday to check for sure as they’ve been sitting under my house since uni days and I’m now never going to use them. 
 

let me know if your keen?

I'm interested in these if Naoks isn't.

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9 minutes ago, Bellicose said:

I'm interested in these if Naoks isn't.

I am all good. I have already got parts here so you could talk to Abarth??:)

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12 hours ago, Bellicose said:

I'm interested in these if Naoks isn't.

Sweet man, I’ll have a look and if I find the parts I’ll PM you.

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Got a BURIAL pipe that was my brother’s recommendation:doubt: 

Cut a rear fender with a hand saw blade.

Gee I bought this pipe about a month ago and that was  the right timing. Look at foreign exchange rates now.... well done Coronavirus....

I thought I have got all parts here but I have just realized I need few More things like lighter weight rollers, air filter and digital cdi...

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I thought I purchased 6.5g weight rollers but somehow I have got 9g WRs...I know that’s too heavy...

and I Installed a Daytona super high speed pulley. Then put the carburetor back after I have cleaned it.

As I mentioned earlier that this bikes E/g has been replaced with the de tuned one

( honda had to meet the new exhaust gas emission regulation)

so carburetor is different from the 7.2hp E/g. But I believe this E/g is more reliable?

You can unscrew MJ and SJ to clean (MJ78 SJ35 for this model)  but I recommend you do not touch the air screw when you clean the whole carb (only if the engine is alive before you clean the carb)

The old pulley has some damages see the red circle on the photo....

 

 

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If it’s staying 50cc I’d go with 5 - 4.5g rollers. This will keep the rpm’s up while it goes up hills and it’ll still do 70kph on the flat. 
 

To test it out you can add only three 9g rollers evenly spread which would have similar total weight as running 5g rollers. 9x3 = 27g vs 5x6 = 30g.

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On 01/03/2020 at 08:18, Abarth said:

If it’s staying 50cc I’d go with 5 - 4.5g rollers. This will keep the rpm’s up while it goes up hills and it’ll still do 70kph on the flat. 
 

To test it out you can add only three 9g rollers evenly spread which would have similar total weight as running 5g rollers. 9x3 = 27g vs 5x6 = 30g.

Thank you for your advice and I put 10gx3 WRs which came with the exhaust pipe. No offense taken but, what happened to the bike is I could not go faster than 30km/h and I almost cooked the E/g:blink: that is because of I put the super high speed pulley? um...I have to get some WRs

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That means the rollers aren’t heavy enough to squeeze the belt high enough on the pulley at high rpm to get it into a high gear.

You can draw a line with a marker on the face of the pulley to see how high the belt is going at max speed. As the belt lifts the marker pen is rubbed off.

When I tuned mine I had a dyno chart of the powerband which showed power vs RPMs. So I fitted an rpm gauge (like the cheapest digital one off Trademe) to work out the ideal RPMs at top speed. 

Those cheap rpm digital displays are good for setting idle RPM too. 

 

 

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Finally they got here! Daytona full degital CDI, WRs 6.5g and 7.5g and air filter.

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Same 6P,  but cable position is different:cry:

It is now clear after I checked the body side of 6p.

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