Popular Post piazzanoob Posted June 24, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 24, 2018 so with more stuff to do i got to work ' figured i would start off with doing the sills this was one of the dents in the sill that the engineer had noted he want done when he first inspected the car so i pulled that dent out when i did the chassis repair and left it bare so you could see the repair was not bogged up. unfortunately i have no photos of the excess bog that was on the sills so started with grinding one side with one side on axle stands and lying on the floor oh and some lovely bog dust collected And now at this point i knew this job was to big of a job to be doing while lying down and a 2 post hoist wouldn't help due to the arms being in the way. And with having no one with a belly lift hoist that would allow me to do grinding and sanding. we had some heavy duty steel trestles that we would jack the car onto this was the full height on the axle stands i had and so now prior to the photo being taken is where the jacking process started turning to shit. before hand the front was on the wheels and one block of wood above that on each side that you can see one the L/H wheel and the rear i had managed to jack high enough by stacking wood above the floor jack and placing two bunnings saw horses bellow the diff which was super dodgy and making creaking noises while the weight was on it. i figured i better get them out asap before they collapse so i got the trolley jack again on the rear diff and stacked about 3 logs high above the jack to which i got it high enough to slide the steel trestle under the drivers side L/H sill but needed to come up another 50mm to side it under the chassis And now i was at the point the blocks above the jack were starting to tip and the front wheels were close to rolling off the wheel and blocks due to not having the brakes applied. so i stood there holding the wheel from rolling off the edge and thought about what the fuck am i doing with my life while feeling help less so i gave my bro a call to get to mine asap before it falls off the jacks. but before he arrives the blocks and the jack slip out and fuck off 1.5 metres away and the rear makes a sudden drop while the steel trestle takes most of the weight while stitting on the drivers side sill. and the saw horse luckly not collapsing. while the car sitting on one big gangster lean enough of one that if the saw horse collapsed the car would've roll over onto the starlet and crushing me to a slow and painful death. so did some more unsafe jacking and got it to the point of the photo above. much safer than before. by this point some helping hands had arrive to help out with the jacking process. also had the over paid safety inspector on site to keep things in control so with the use of some quality Japanese alloy wheels cobble stones and blocks of wood and a trolley jack we got it high enough safely to place the trestles underneath the chassis. and by this point it still wasn't at a nice comfortable working height. so the next day we got some bigger blocks and cut some up to place above the trestles and did some jacking again To which we ended up at this comfortable height to work with. safer than a hoist m8 also having 1 trolley jack to do this job is painful. but got there in the end also gave it the rock test and passed flying colors. now your inner safety Nazi can tell me off 13 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted June 25, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 25, 2018 now with the important part of the job also as seen in the previous post that i had already stripped 90 percent of the bog and paint off the passengers sill the next part was to remove the drivers side bog and paint and the other 10 percent from the passengers. oh thanks bog smiths which then to this point which revealed only really one big dent photo doesn't really show the actual size is much bigger than the photos then stripped the rest of the passengers if you look closer at the photo you will find a dark line which is a big long dent in the sill and again with a dent in the front like the other side and some previous panel pulling had been found due to holes in the steel that would've been from a screw type puller then pulled my pullers out had purchased the one on the left as its a eastwood kit as came with an attachment for the mig welder to weld the the pins on but didn't work that well. nor did the puller have any good way of getting it tight enough onto the pins to pull. does work but would only really work on thin flat panels. would not recommend though but the one on the right we made up ourself with some stuff lying around but is just abit heavy to use but works 100% so got the dents out to a reasonable level without tearing the metal with using both pullers. which came out like this so grounded the welds off and any other shitty bits and applied some etch primer just brush painted this on due to the small amount needed. now next ill show you how to be a bog smith cheers m8 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted July 2, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2018 now with some bog smith work... after letting the etch primer dry i applied some body filler to both sides And with the drivers side needing much less. we then sanded it and sanded it then added more bog and sanded it again. with about 10 hours of shaping the sills as i keep finding inperfections in the bodyline and sanding and bogging. we then masked up the car to set with putting some primer on tapped two of these thin plastic masking sheets together due to the width of the car. then we pulled out some primer we had but it turned out the primer had separated and it was fucked although the last time we used it was to do the piazza so it was a few years ago now. so ended up going to supercheap as it was a sunday and they had some. laided some primer down then sanded some more then went out to supercheap again to get some spot putty put some spot putty on as the filler gets air pockets in it. oh and @GuyWithAviators where's all your stock gone. everytime i go in your store you dont have it in stock then sanded that and got it to a acceptable level as the rest of the car isn't show spec. next you will find how good a non professional can get a paint job 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted July 4, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 4, 2018 so after it having a few coats of primer on the sills i gave it one final light sand to help with a better paint finish. i then gave the sills a blow down and wipe and laid some paint down with some paint that i had matched up using the fuel flap as a sample colour name seems right to me then applied one light coat And while i was waiting for this coat to tack on... I then applied a few more coats on each side with them not being very thick coats with leaving some time before applying each coat. ended up using the whole amount i filled the gun up with And didn't end up with any runs in the paint and a pretty good finish for a non paint guy. could've got a better finish if i had applied the coats thicker but also didn't want runs haha oh and next up ill take it off the stands which should be quicker than it went up 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 now the next job was to get it down off the stands unfortunately not many photos were taken due to being the jack operator so for this job i decided to borrow another trolley jack to help with the job this was also a slow job being that remove one block then let it back down as we were unable to do big drops on the jacks then once we were at a height where we could remove the trestle stands we placed some blocks with the axle stands at full height. then remove blocks from below or above the jack and drop the axle stand down a notch. this job took about 2 hours with 3 people and this was all done by the help of on the jack m8 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 with the car being back on the ground it was time to have a tidy up and set to work on cleaning up the inside of the floors It started with cleaning up the old underlay crap off the floor Just used a scraper and got most of it off even mum came out to lend a hand and the last photo shows the only rust that was in the floor being on the rear passengers side i then got the wire brush and an abrasive disc on the grinder to get the surface ready for paint i also while i was at it cleaned up the patch on the R/F floor abit more. then after this i cleaned the whole floor with prepsol and twice in some place so it was clean and ready for paint. And covered the holes in the floor to prevent paint spilling on the floor 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted July 18, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 18, 2018 And then with that done i applied two coats of the white knight PPG rust guard paint. Came out pretty good not too fussed anyway as the carpet will cover it too. also applied with a paint brush so not exactly a quick job. and now just to get the underside blasted and painted 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted July 23, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 23, 2018 Before the car could be sent off for sand blasting and coating the underside. It needed to be clean underneath of any grease or oil due to the sandblaster spreading it around and causing the paint not to stick. so off i went for a drive to where i had access to a steam cleaner. oh wait and a forklift too so before any steam cleaning was done i put a steel i beam under the forklift mast so that if the forklift happen to lower itself it would rest on the steel beam. then sprayed some degreaser on the underside then steam cleaned it off the underside was actually still quite clean as i had already cleaned the underside last year for compliance. but still had some grease around the steering box which i removed as much as i could. now on its own wheels to be driven home. then once i got it home i put a waterproof car cover i had over it due to it staying outside for the night as it was going to the blasters first thing in the morning. And plus i knew it was going to rain that night. wasn't so keen on a swimming pool inside the car. so this cover is an extra large one. well not an american spec big one oh and yes it did rain quite heavy that night/morning. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted July 29, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 29, 2018 blast time! pulled the wet car cover off the car and drove it first thing in the morning to the blasters And much to the guys surprise i turned up as he figured due to the rain i was going to can it so before long i helped the boys put the car in the booth and set it on some stands so they could blast underneath and gave it a good mask up prior to it being blasted then this unfortunately this is a photo after blasting but you get the picture also masked up the trans so the nice newish paint on it wouldn't get blasted off also if i had of known that there stands were this low i would've bought down the ones i used when i painted the sills. but when i organised to bring it in he said he had some ramps that they used for vehicles but it turned out they were quite low so after about 3 hours of blasting we pulled it out of the booth. he did blast for about 2 hours then we gave it an inspection and found some areas missed. Im glad i didn't have to blast it myself with having a heavy amount of head protection and a breathing hose with a big hose with huge amount of air pressure and on your knees blasting with fuck all lighting. we then double team it to get it off the stands All of this was done with the supervision and coordination from me being that i didn't want the car damaged and knowing a thing or two about lifting and holding the car on stands. then once we got it off the stands and put the wheels back on so we could get it out of the blast booth i then set it back up on the forklift to paint underneath The plan was to have the car painted by me on his two post car hoist but due to it raining and being freshly blasted and clean we couldn't put it on it due to it being in a another workshop 50 meters away. and would get wet and dirty underneath. so forklift and 205 litre drums to make it look safe it was! I then set to work myself to save some money on the job by painting underneath myself took me about 3.5 hours to get a full cover of etch primer underneath due to using a standard bottom feed spray gun and so many areas to get into. everything pretty much underneath was blasted what a big job! oh and they painted a concrete pump truck (just not the truck cab) one of these quicker than i did the underneath haha but they had a big pressure pot sprayer. by this time it was the end of the day and he was happy enough to get his boys to put the top coat underneath which i supplied the paint for them to do tomorrow. so i left the old girl like this but on the ground overnight And those are the ramps they were going to use under the chevy truck bed so yeah there not high. I then collected the car two days later after them finishing it off one full day of painting it and half day of removing the masking. and a few hours of him running it on and off due to the paint on the exhaust smoking haha with it being coated with a total of 12 litres of paint to do the job with the finish product being this put it on the hoist and couldn't find anyway they had missed which is ace! also stinks real bad of the paint baking on the exhaust and underbody much like the inside after running it for a bit. And now i know for a next time just to get them to do the full job. such a physical and tiring and cunt of a job to do. best leave that one to the pros 26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 So with all of the engineer's remaining list down the next was to get him to inspect it and sign it off. but before that was done unfortunately when the car got blasted and painted a rookie error was done by me and them that the order i did the sills inside and underneath was done backwards so now i have sills that have patches in bare metal due to been hit with the blaster and the inside being covered in sand and water due to the weather on the way to the blasters. And some overspray of black in places on the car where we didn't mask between the inside of the back and front bumpers round the drivers door And the engine bay as i didn't cover any of that was in too much of a hurry of them blasting it that didn't even think about it. so gave the inside a good vacuum and blow out and wipe with a wet cloth then went over the car with thinners getting the black off then sanded some of the stone chips aswell this was a bad one by the rear passengers door front passengers door drivers side by the rear screen and these ones on the gaurd. plus the bits on the sills and a whole lot of other bits around the car. so used my fathers model spray gun from when he was a young lad to paint all these bits using the orange i had mixed up for the sills. also did all the gaurd edges to tidy them up. also didn't bother about adding any clear on it. then after that was done i gave the car a full cut and polish again. so now the paint is good from afar but far from good oh and i also installed my new master cylinder i bought a few months back 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted August 12, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 12, 2018 with all the paintwork all tidyish now it was time for the engineer to sign off the repairs. so booked it in for him to look at it on the hoist at work so drove it to work that morning and with the feeling of it going to rain i decided i would park it in the workshop. so parked it outside to pull the door up and move some cars out of the way then when to start it to place it in the workshop and the brakes are jammed on so moved it back a few meters then went to go forwards up a slight hill with the concrete wet and it ended up just wheel spinning so ended up jacking the front up with a trolley jack and driving it up till it reached the edge of the workshop concrete. but then i decided i would crack the brake pressure off the master cylinder by undoing the line to it. but when i did that i hadn't placed the car in park but had left it in drive and it began to start rolling down the incline so with the help of a workmate we tried to hold it with him telling me to get in and me telling him to get in but he couldn't due to a ciggy in the mouth and a clipboard in one hand. so i quickly jumped in and placed it into park. then fired it up and drove it into the workshop. by this time i was not a happy camper and did follow through with swearing and carrying on at the car. then when the engineer turned up i explained that the brakes were locked but we organised that he would come back the next day with the paperwork signed off and i would just need to place it on the hoist for him. so pulled the master cylinder out to see what was going on. so this here is the height at which the push rod relax position is on the new master. And the position on the old master. so by looking at the photos you can see the lengths are different. although you cant see this when installing the master due to leaving the push rod in place and it being a blind hole. so i fixed this by disassembling the master and drilling out the hole bigger where the push rod sits in the master. then reassembled and fitted and bled back on the car. And the reason why the brakes locked was because the brake pedal had no free play so brakes were always applied to the point of lock up. \ then boom all panel repairs signed off and now ready to go back for compliance again 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted August 17, 2018 Author Share Posted August 17, 2018 took the car back in for its compliance only to have another fail list of stuff to do which is all new stuff that wasn't mentioned on the last two inspections that were done by the same compliance company so time to do some more spannering so close to legal yet soo far from legal 1 3 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted August 27, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 27, 2018 so with the car failing its compliance check i only agreed with two of the items that were failed on the list. one being that the rear shoes on the front brake shoes having a crack through them. they had done less than 800km and every brake part being new apart from the hard lines . so pulled the cracked ones off and got a replacement set under warranty due to no heat spots or any signs of user error. also those dam brake springs in these are not so fun to put in. and the other thing i agreed with them failing was the rag joint which is the joint between the steer column and steering box so ordered a new one from northwestern ford and received it the next day then pulled the joint out then disassembled the rubber joint and placed the new rubber joint onto the steel housing And now the old rubber joint as you can see is well past its use by date And now with those major bits fixed its now onto the silly bits they failed. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted October 11, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 11, 2018 looooong overdue update. got the old girl all legal in August a week before going away on holiday last month. so with the steering joint done i did some of the other failed items which was the brake pedal rubber being worn on the edge so new one of those got put on and rear shock bottom thread bent. so out came a socket and hammer and job done and they also failed all of the rear spring bushes incl the rubber spring pads so replaced the rear shackle ones as had them in stock already but as you can see the bushes are more perished than worn due to the Arizona heat and the spring pads and front bushes on the rear springs i pulled out and showed the compliance inspector that they are cracked from age and Arizona heat. so politely showed him and told him that he doesn't really know what hes doing. Not bloody worn and as you can expect i was not impressed being a mechanic myself and them inspecting the car twice before. so lubed the bushes and spring pads and put them back in. and that fixed the rear end squeak too! took the car back and got the wof label on the window. then took a old girl home after a bit of a drive and made a floor bung and placed the carpet and other trims back in. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted October 28, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 28, 2018 so since this car has been legal its been out on the road twice one the day it got legal which it went okay And the next time was a night time cruise through town with it blowing the low beam headlamp fuse in town and not having a replacement i ended up driving round with hi beam going. then she ran abit hot and ran like a bag of shit having to hold the brake and accelerator at the lights which wasn't so ideal so parked her up for a feed and went to leave and she only just started due to the battery being low in charge. then stopped for a leak and turned it off due to it being hot then it wouldn't start as battery was now too flat. so waited and got a jumpstart from my AA cover and drove straight home and parked her up. wasn't super impressed at this point as everytime i drive it something fucks out or plays up. so took a look at the reason why the battery had gone flat and found that the external alternator voltage regulator had shit itself It had already been replaced with a new bosch unit 8 months prior as the original one fucked out. so out it went and back for a warranty with surprise surprise it only seems to be me that has had one fail yet oh and i bought a bosch one as i figured they were good.... time will tell with this replacement one And with the starting issue too i found a second hand reduction starter cheap so chucked that in with some good sharns to the old owner who also had a 64 but a two door so now cranks abit quicker and easier so next job was to make this thing run cooler i had removed the old mechanical fan as it was shit and had no shroud and fitted an electric one instead then hooked it up on a switch for when needed and fitted a thermo switch for it to kick in when it reaches the right temp but have not wired that up yet. which meant that the temp sensor had to be moved to a different postion due to only one water port. so bought one of these things and painted it black but before fitting it i had to fit a replacement top rad hose being a 40mm hose to 45mm fittings on the radiator and expansion tank so plenty of heat lube and hand action and stretched it on. had to do this due to the water temp adapters local only went upto 40mm but got there in the end And yes after this i unbolted the mechanical fan. i then stripped the radiator off to be checked and found it was 30% blocked And the expansion tank was also sent off to have a pinhole leak repaired. then waterpump off to be checked too so gave it a quick sandblast to look at the old previous repair. and you can see that it was a pretty average repair. the waterpump ended up being in good condition but bought a new one due to them being cheap and not wanting any cooling issues again anyway. so yeah plenty of work has been going into it to get it ready for summer use! 10 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted October 30, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 30, 2018 so i decided that i would keep up with the normal oldschool tradition and pull my car apart once shes all legal. so the other issue this car had was the carb setup it had some unknown brand cheap carb that you couldn't get it to run mint on. so the plan was to put a four barrel manifold on to help it breathe as it only had a two barrel one currently. but the plan was to do that after the cooling system was done. but when i removed the waterpump it had a pipe that joints the waterpump and manifold well that pipe broke due to being rusty and old so that would've needed to be fixed but figured it would be better just to put a 4 barrel manifold while i was at it seen as it isn't much more work right plus it would've ended up pulling the same stuff off twice. plus it had a oil leak from the sump which required motor out anyway and other areas which made the nice clean rebuilt trans not so clean. oh and how the engine bay and motor didn't look so great so now oh while im there i may as well do that as its not much more work has involved itself into this car haha. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted November 1, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 1, 2018 so this thing has turned into a big job... went and pulled the galaxie outside and give the engine bay a full degrease and waterblast. then i wasn't happy with the finish paintwork on the firewall wheel tubs and pretty much everything. was coated was looks to be underbody sealer so looks super rough. so began sanding it off then i pulled it apart some more to help with the sanding process Then when i got sick of doing some sanding i stripped some stuff of the engine so now im at the point where ive fully stripped it and wanting the car ready for an event which is 4 weeks away. so heres to hoping not too much goes wrong right.... with plenty on the to do list 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted November 8, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 8, 2018 so progress is still happening with this still on the sanding job and many other things on the go while one of the wheel tubs was off i decided i would fix a rust hole that was there due to a battery in its past life leaking battery acid onto it and the battery tray at which i had already replaced. this hole never was an issue for compliance so either they didn't see it or weren't bothered. then patchy patch now more sanding can be done. I also acquired a factory 4 barrel manifold through @cletus so gave that a good waterblast along with my trans And while i was out asking a mate on some carb advice he gave me a holley 600 with vac secondary's as he had no use for it. then gave the combo a test fit on the motor. i have also been prepping the engine for a spray can rebuild also., 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted November 11, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 11, 2018 so some progress has been happening laid down some primer after plenty of sanding also spent more time prepping the motor for paint too and pulled the timing cover off sump and oil filter housing and prepped them ready for paint And cleaned up some bolts ready for paint too ' I then started sandblasting the bonnet hinges and springs ready for paint also cheers m8 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post piazzanoob Posted November 18, 2018 Author Popular Post Share Posted November 18, 2018 still progress is happening had a good look over the parts painted in primer and gave some bits a quick scuff then fired some gloss black on and painted the timing cover and oil filter housing And the same on the inlet manifold too also did the exhaust manifolds in high temp silver then gave the motor some loving Also when i stripped the motor i found this in the sump had to have a bit of a think to figure out where its from. but the sump also had plenty of rocks and dust collected in there too And the only reasoning why that was in the sump is that when the timing cover gasket was done in its past life that got put in along with rocks and dust as this part appears to be a small block chev rocker pivot ball for the valve train where as my motor factory run roller rockers so that part doesn't exist on my motor. so i also found a much easier way to do ford 2 piece rear main seals Remove all main caps but leave the conrod caps untouched then i used a gantry to slightly move the crank up which made sliding the bottom half of the seal around much easier. also placed some silicon where the two half's join as per seal manufacturers recommendation. and some on the top and bottom of the rear main cap side seals too. I then put a new oil pump on too seen as while im in there. then gave the motor a good wipe down and painted the motor. for this part i wanted the car to remain close to how it came from the factory and that has been pretty much for the whole car throughout the whole fix up process. plus that orange looked so shit so these fords of this era came out with black engines and either blue or gold rocker covers and air cleaner. cheers 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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