piazzanoob's 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 seeeedaaan

[piazzanoob]

so one of the jobs for compliance was to do the L/R wheel bearing.

so out came the driveshaft

also popped the diff head out for inspection and out came the axles without too much trouble.

so seen as this car has no drain bung for the diff fluid i popped the diff head of its seal and let it all leak out

well you would of thought so...

then with diff head out...

the diff fluid had turned into some hard tar shit. 

the fluid had not been changed in a looooong time.

half of the stuff that came out was a solid.

also the diff head and axles were also covered in this crap.

so took the diff head and axles into work and gave them both a good cleanup in the parts washer.

along with fitting two new wheel bearings as may as well do both while i am in there.

also made up some new paper gaskets for the axle flange.

and got the diff head as clean as i could.

must of spent about 3 hours cleaning all the hard tar shit that is the breakdown of the gear oil that was sitting in the axle tubes and diff head area.

then refitted it all and refilled the diff up with some 75w 90 gear oil but will change it again after a few miles just to keep everything in there happy.  

[piazzanoob]

this chipping away at this ol girl

cut out this rusty piece of steel in the R/h front floor pan which had been bogged over.

this piece has most likely rusted out due to a leaking heater. 

\

Used this piece of 1.5mm of zintech panelsteel.

spend some time panel bashing it with a wooden panel hammer and sandbag and a steel hammer then tack'd it in with some more hitting with the hammer.

Then faced my torch underneath to check for any holes 

welded the remaining holes up a few times and now shes air tight.  just like AL's mum puhuhuhu

will leave the welding on this patch as is for the moment untill she gets the all clear from the repair certifier along with no paint or rust stuff.

also my aliexpress gauges turned up too

pretty happy with the quality of them.

 

[piazzanoob]

so got my new Ali gauges mounted and wired up by @chris r  and the oil pressure gauge is faulty so currently trying to see what he will do about it as he is playing the no reply game.

 

[piazzanoob]

super late reply but never late than never right

so during my Christmas break well only the stat days i had off i made a start on the repair on the rear chassis rail.

so to do this job the body had to be raised of the chassis on the back 

 

so the dog chilled out with me while pulled it apart on Christmas evening

then with a few hours work and the help of the gantry crane the old girl was free

 

we then cut out the previous welded piece out 

As some piss poor american had most likely arc welded it in before 

which then revealed this 

which as you can see by the photo that the rail is bent although both of them were.

Now here is the part where you say this is a big NO NO and why the hell am i doing it this way.

So we gave the chassis rail some heat to move in back into the right shape with the help of a hammer until we got the shape right.

So the reason we did it this way as if we had used a porta power or chassis machine it would of had to be done with the body still bolted down otherwise nothing would ever line up again.

which also most likely would of bent the chassis even more than it was

but i figure that the metal was formed while glowing hot 

then was rewelded in the past causing it to be glowing hot 

then we played with it causing it to be glowing hot 

So really in my opinion it did not change the metal at all.

And it had a big dent in the centre of the rail which had to have heat to get it out.

Then after we did that we heated up the rail we had cut out and bent that back into the correct shape.

Then welded it in.

I then applied some anti rust primer and then followed with some semi gloss back.

so the only reason the top got done is that it cant very well be seen and once the body is back on you wont be able to get any paint on it.

Also note that none of the welding was done by me.

my old man done it as he has done plenty of structural welding in the past on trucks and other equipment.

plus 30+ years doing welding does help.

now go and tell me how ive done it wrong here 

cheers

[piazzanoob]

So after fixing the chassis rail i placed the car back on its frame and tighten her up.

but seen as it had been hit in the past causing the poor chassis repair the bumper was also bent and twisted upto shit.

so we made up a jig so that we could fit our porta power and bend it back into shape.

so yeah big ol gap

other side you could fit your fingers where the bumper wraps around the car where the side you can see (R/H) side is hard up against the rear quarter 

so i split the the bumper into pieces so it could be straighten out

then placed one at a time on our pressing jig 

also made up some blocks of wood for underneath in the shape of the bumper.

then spent a bit of time pressing the bumper then removing and checking and back in again.

while this seemed like a straight forward exercise it took alot of time and we did it by using no heat as we didn't want to damage the chrome on the bumper and had a problem where the top face of the bumper would bend quite noticeably so while we had some pressure on the bumper we used a piece of wood and a big hammer and hit where the big bend was.

This worked although it was time consuming as it had to come on and off the jig several times.

  

Then this inner bumper frame was inserted in the jig and bent back into shape. This piece was alot more straight forward and less time consuming.

 

we also had to bend out the corners of the bumper as they were set too far inwards but just did that using the porta power.

so when that was done another thing i had to tick off the list for compliance was the rego lamp as when i went back for my recheck he said i had to have a rego lamp lense. would of been a whole lot easier if they had told me in the first inspection. not in the recheck

so seen as the cost of a new lense and gasket was much the same cost of a new led generic rego lamp. 

so i went out and got one. sometimes its better to update and not continue fucking with old crap. although i should have got one from ali tbh.

 

made a real average spec holder for the led one out of some panel steel.

then painted it and fitted it.

also gave it a bit of angle to face the plate.

not really a nice tidy finish i was hoping for but kinda couldn't be bothered making another better one. so on it went. 

then placed the two halfs of the bumper back on and fitted it too the car.

so now has some more even gaps and looks a whole lot tidier.

[piazzanoob]

so with one remaining panel replacement being the trunk floor to be done to have the engineer sign off i may as well plod along getting other bits done.

it never ends with this car 

ordered a fuel sender from northwestern ford from palmy north

pulled tank out again 

fitted new seal that came with the kit too as had started leaking before.

also made up a new bit of fuel hose from the tank to the hardline

And also bought a new fuel pump

has also dulled out abit as i put some degreaser on it.

And this old shitta

 

was leaking from around its pressed seal so in the bin it went.

also new one had the added bonus of a built in filter like this puppy

this is one that came with the car and fits too.

also fitted a new fuel hose from pump to hard line aswell

thanks work for the hose and clamps

so now the fuel system is leak free and has new hoses and clamps  

 

[piazzanoob]

Another job on the to do list done

starter motor had an issue where it wouldn't engage alot of the time.

so out it came from its hole 

pulled apart the starter motor and narrowed it down to the clutch not working under load.

so ordered a new one from northwestern ford and received it the next day.

  

also gave everything a good clean while it was apart.

then reassembled it with the new clutch  etc

 

another job done and dusted 

[piazzanoob]

so a wee while back i ordered some parts from the US for this. And some aliexpress shit

got a boot lock rod so i could fit the lock that was new that came with the car

then some fuel flap rubbers 

doesn't fit quite flush but ill let the rubber settle itself out for abit first.

 

And a new carboard type glove box insert as it is quite handy to have a working glovebox

and also ordered a set of letters for the trunk lid as it previous only had F and O remaining 

and got myself this sweet Ariel as the one it came with had been snapped off and not working.

 

then after a couple of days of having it fitted i snapped the darn thing off. you silly cunt 

still got some more things to fit onto this car that ive already received but will do that after she is wof and rego'd

[piazzanoob]

more jobs on the list have been done

one that i didn't really want to open my wallet and get done but it needed to be done.

The trans had and issue where it would not go into third gear (top gear) all the time and leaked from every hole bar the front seal.

And after talking to the trans shop about it it was decided it had to come out to be fixed.

so out it came  

unfortunately never got a photo of it out but the whole trans and crossmember were covered in fluid and grease so pulling it out was not much fun 

so off to the trans shop it went

And god dam these cruise o matics are heavy 

 

also note that amount of metal fillings sitting in the trans pan

 

so pretty much under the whole inspection nothing was found to be damaged just everything worn out and metal fillings through the torque converter and valve body which was the cause of the intermittent top gear fault but the trans had clean fluid in it due to it leaking out it required regular top ups 

so while the trans shop were waiting on parts from the USA i sent the housings off to get blasted even though the trans shop had already done a good job at cleaning them 

so this job went to @Mr Vapour

before vapour blasting

   

 

And after

then applied some paint to the housing 

Then went to the job of removing the flex plate 

Left CRC on it for a few days and gave it a few heat cycles with the map torch 

Then got it hot and spent about 10 mins with 2 prybars and eventually came off 

then gave some of my other parts a sand blast and water blast 

before 

After a steam clean 

And painted the trans pan the same colour as the trans housing but no photo of that.

 

after a light sandbast treatment 

then gave the parts a lick of black paint

unfortunately turned out average as i thinned out the paint a bit too much 

then the parts went back to the trans shop and got it back a few days later looking like this 

 

 

too bad you don't get to see it as its under the car

then in the car it went

also did wreck abit of the pan paint while getting the trans in on the ground 

after that i made some new cooler hardlines as the old ones were steel and pretty fucked 

copper pipe m8

gave it a flare job 

then proceeded to run it from the front to the trans and using a pipe bender where it needed it and placing p clips to retain the hard line.

then 2 lines later i was on to fitting this  

then bought one of these bad boys as the current setup was through the radiator which isn't super efficient

and mounted it in front of the radiator 

which seems to cool it alot better than what it did before 

then filled the trans with this stuff

ended up using about 8 liters     

could've used dexron 3 but type f runs no additives so is abit better for the trans friction material.

so cheers too @Mr Vapour on the great blast work and quick turn around 

And thanks to Auckland Automatics for doing a great job and emptying my wallet     

[piazzanoob]

One thing that had always bugged me with this car was the paint.

The clear coat on the paint has come off on the bonnet boot and roof and some other smaller areas so it looks like crap.

ive decided that the car will not get a respray from me as ive got to many other projects and would rather not know what is below the paint. nor have the time or money to do the job.

so to start with i got the compressor with the air duster on it it and blew off the remaining clear coat that was not stuck down as they were the bits that stood out 

I then used the electric buffer with the sheep wool pad on it and some cutting compound and a mist of water on the surface so the cutting compound would not dry out 

so now the aim was to restore the current paint as good as i could 

so this was before any work had been done on it when it was in the USA still which is the best photo comparison for the paint work without looking at it in person 

 

 

so this photo shows the gaurd has been buffed and the bonnet has not 

i then over a few nights buffed the whole car and having to go over some bits again too 

 

 

And the roof yet to be done in this photo 

then after buffing the whole car i then buffed on some polishing wax to give it a bit more shine and paint protection

 

 

 

 

And tried on some 17inch cragar's which look crap

so now the paint looks a whole lot better than before but is still good from far but far from good.

but now to keep it clean as it doesn't get taken in the rain much is just to give it a wipe over with some detail wax and a microfiber cloth and it keeps its shine and helps to stop dust staying on it. 

 

now tell me how i should matty B it 

[piazzanoob]

Another compliance job now to be ticked off the list

with the car having some previous repair damage and a couple rust areas the job needed to be inspected first by a panel beater engineer before any work was carried out.

so i checked with the local panelbeaters who they used and gave that guy a ring 

so organised a day with him and i put it on the hoist at work for him to inspect 

and all that was said is make and weld a new patch in nicely in the front R/f floor 

replace the boot floor (trunk pan) as has many holes 

and cut out and straighten and reweld chassis in R/R 

And job done

so after talking to a few people and taking the car to a few aswell for the rear trunk floor as that was the last on the list to do 

with one guy offering to make one for me but me having to cut the floor out and send it to wellington to get made then sent back then spend heaps of time trying to fit the fucking thing. so figured that was an expensive and fuck around way of doing it 

So the other opinion from who i had seen was to get a good new reproduction trunk floor out of the USA  

so i found a website who did old ford stuff who i had already bought stuff off 

so fired away and bought one off them and sent it to the nz post service depot in oregon why they have it there who would know.

Then got an email a couple days later stating that the item had arrived but was considered oversize wait what!

so gave you shop a call but had to call them here as they don't have a number for the US service 

20 minutes on hold and my lunch break is over

so called again same thing on hold for 20 minutes so they say they will send an inquiry out for them to check why it is oversize etc 

so i rang them the next week to get an update as had not heard anything for over 4 days 

waste more time on hold with the same shitty music 

then to be told the combined size is too big 

  so my item only being 1350mm or so i figured i was way under so figured it would be fine but no.

perhaps they could of worded it abit easier for people to understand the combined size etc? or make people more aware of this?

so i was then told i have to email the oversize freight team to get a quote to have it sent here.

so did that and had to wait a couple of days for the quote be emailed to me 

then paid the money as figured it was way less hassle to be Air freighted through them then sending elsewhere and at this point my engineers deadline was coming up.

so the item arrived a week later into nz and was waiting customs check for a duty bill etc

3 bloody weeks went by and i had been TRYING to get hold of them but 20 minute holds and by then i just hang up 

I eventually talk to someone to say an invoice had been sent to me but they sent it to the wrong email address 

but the thing is i had already been talking to the person who was going to be sending the invoice via email so why didn't he just reply to our current conversation and he did state he would email me the invoice.

so i pay the invoice and get told i will get the item on Friday via courier as they don't accept pickups but end up getting the item on MONDAY...

so now im a week away from my deadline and there is no chance i can get the trunk pan in because of work.

so i open my box to look at nice new trunk floor only too..........

 

what on earth is this piece of crap

where is my swages 

there is no straight edge on this panel too 

And they also have the cheek to put a sticker stating its made in the USA  m8 could've made a better panel myself with a grinder

 

  

 

so this is what the panel should look like.

And at this point the panel owes me 835.64 dollars and its scrap 

so tip one - don't use quality USA replacement panels 

tip two - don't ring nz post unless you want to waste your life away on hold

tip three -  nz customs hold times are great also

tip four - don't be as gullible as me and assume it would be easier to get one from the states and it would look like the original. like other panel beaters told me.

 

 

[piazzanoob]

So i was now at the point where i was talking to my panel beater about my rubbish panel 

And already being past the engineers cut off date for a recheck only for compliance which was the 28th of February

and we are now the 10th of march  ( As my posts are well overdue) 

so i took the car in left it with him and uber'd home so this gave him time to put the car in the workshop which was on a monday

then went back that evening to drop the fuel tank out for him to keep my bill lower and spin some yarns.

I also took the trunk pan i bought to him to see if he could make it work as i stated the amount and hassle it owed me 

And i think he felt a bit bad about it too as he had recommended me to order a GOOD one from the USA as others had too 

He then flicked me a texted early Wednesday morning saying it was done following with a photo and invoice.

paid 80 percent of the invoice and left the remaining as i couldn't see the numbers properly on the photo invoice he had sent. and planned to come pick it up friday evening.

went in friday evening with some burbons to place the tank back in and put the drained gas in and unloaded off the axle stands. 

done that then explained about the payment i had done when he asked and said i would put the rest through tonight

then spun some yarns and drank some beer he supplied and drove the old girl home.

 

And this was the job he did for me.

And he didn't end up using my panel as it wasn't going to work.

so he made one from some flat 1.3mm zintech steel and used a Trekka swage die to make the swages 

which is one of these 

so now my car has Trekka designed floor pan swages in it.

but was overall very impressed with the job 

And the price was fair considering the work involved and is a two man job to weld it in place.

And the quick turnaround

And also A+ YARNS 

so thanks to Tony at custom metalshapers LTD In East Tamaki for doing the job.

 

 

[piazzanoob]

Seen as the trans got a rebuild I had to give it a stall test right? 

well I guess it won't stall 

cheers m8

[piazzanoob]

Finshed doing one of the jobs i was going to do then half assed fixed it then decided i will fix it properly as would of most likely bite me in the ass if i didn't

power steering pump was leaking out of the front seal so put some morey's in there and no more leaky but the pump pulley ran way out of true and to the point i knew something was worn and fucked so off it came.

  

had got a seal kit out of rockauto for this job seen as they are the cheapest.

then stripped the pump into as many pieces as it could be 

I then found that it had bushes and they were worn out 

so i stopped in to my local transmission and steering parts supplier (being tranz) to see weather they had any bushes or not

but they didn't but spent some time sharning as they got an ex trans and steering mechanic there so he gave me some tips on the pump And told me where to get the bushes.

oh and also gave me the bush sizes off the top of his head

so went to seal imports with a bit of paper with the size needed and job done.

so ended up getting some teflon coated bushes rather than the standard brass bushes as they are easier to fit and much nicer on the pump components when wear occurs.

I then removed the old bushes and prepped the pump for fitting new seals and bushes by

using some wet and dry sandpaper 

A flat surface being a tyre machine being the most ideal 

And some wurth rust off for the lubricant 

   

so we do this by moving the item you are sanding in a figure 8 shape so that the item gets sanded EVENLY 

And then the otherside too 

so now the both sides are hand machined flat so the seal will seal!

I then also polished up the main pump shaft as it had score marks from the worn out bushes and years of use.

Ran it up on the lathe and sprayed the wet and dry sandpaper with rust off again and used the sandpaper to polish the marks out.

I then threw the parts in the blasting cabinet and gave them a sandblast at home 

I then fitted the new bushes and new seals and the rest of the stuff back into the pump 

And gave the components a lick of paint.

 

ended up coming out super average being from a spray can. should've just bought some white and sprayed in my spray gun.

then joined the two halfs back together

 

And then at this point when i fitted the pulley realised the internal hole in the pulley had worn out offset.

so off so saeco wilson so buy a blank pulley in the same size.

then sent the pulley off to a engineering shop to have the pulley offset hole size and keyway done on the pulley.

 

Done to a tight fit mate

also notice in the photo how worn that pulley is! the key way had mostly worn away.

I then prepped and sprayed the new pulley black.

then used the oxy acetylene to heat the pulley to expand the pulley enough so it would nicely fit onto the shaft.

being that it was a machined fit.

then refitted back onto the car and bleed the system.

so i now have a good functioning pump with no more wobbly pulley.

I also added some morey's back in too as the steering control valve is leaking also.

[piazzanoob]

Another job on the to do list done but again took way too long.

One of the jobs that needed to be completed for the engineer's sign off was a wheel alignment. Not that is any what related to the chassis repair but i guess is a standard on any repair.

seen as i work in a shop and have to do wheel alignments on a daily basis why not do it myself right.

well we don't have the spec's for any car of that era.

so i gave the guy at northwestern ford a call to see if he had any spec's to which he found some and sent them via email which was choice.

so spent way too long trying to convert the measurements over to millimeters from inches then into our alignment computer. only to make 3 different ones with different spec's on each one to making one for better drive ability.

then thinking some more and changing it again.

so then on one of my days off i took it in to do the alignment.

well it started off with not being able to put the rear sensors on the car due to the rear wheel arches. That's cool seen as there is no rear adjustment anyway.

then set the computer up for front alignment only... but ive only done one other car that way so had to figure all that out again.

then computer had a spaz and wouldn't do the full procedure so try again and again then decides to play ball.

so then get to do the alignment only to find its miles out and requires shim's in the front for both camber and caster.

so jack it up slightly to release the suspension load then loosen the nuts and remove and insert shims until within spec.

so that was about 2 hours work to finish that alignment. woohoo.

only to find the computer would not communicate with the printer. so just figured i would sort it the next day as it gets kept on the database.

so check on the database only to find that the spec part of the alignment is blank. great.

we had then got the IT guy in to check the printing issue only to find that it had a issue with the ip address being a wireless printer but all of this was caused by the Auckland storm causing the power cut.

so when the printer was working i figured i would just chuck the car on the alignment hoist run it through the procedure then not have to adjust anything due to doing it the week before. but nah off again and where i would have to shim it again...

so off it went and brought it back in to work another day to do it.

then edited the spec's again but really made a new lot of spec's altogether    

then spent a few more hours getting it to the new spec 

And then printed 2 copies of the new spec's and is still on the database which is good. And now noticeably drives and steers better than the last alignment. 

but i also tried to correct the steering wheel location as it is far off from straight. but couldn't pull the wheel off even left some puller tension on it overnight with no luck so have put that in the too hard basket for now.

 

oh and one i was doing on @chris r van a few months back for engineer's sign off 

was also shim's and a long alignment job.

[piazzanoob]

Also one of the jobs that needed to be done was the seatbelts

they had failed compliance due to not mounted in the factory mounting points and wrong seatbelt type.

so the first inspector got it all wrong and said it required 3 point belts which being a pillarless car there is nothing strong to mount the top piece too which the only other belt i can have is lap belts which is a factory option witch this car was not ordered new with.

so called @cletus round to have a look and see what could be done. he looked and found that it had factory mounting points that still had the bungs in them since 1964.

so i then ordered some seatbelts from https://www.seatbeltsplus.com/ as they are quarter of the cost than from classic seatbelts here in new zealand. used youshop post service as they don't do overseas shipping and arrived at my door a few weeks later.

I then mounted two of them in the front using new seatbelt bolts i had around and using factory mounts.

I had then organised while i was doing the wheel alignment for @cletus to check the belts and fill the paperwork out to get a seatbelt declaration to state that after being recommended that i put in 3 point belts i am not and keeping the lap belts in place therefor leaving nzta not to blame if any accident is too occur.

then a week and a bit later this turned up 

     

 

And also bought a third one so once shes all legal i can put a middle lap belt in using one of each of the mounts as if i had it fitted it a strength plate would need to be added as two belts on one set of mounts.

oh and no belts for the rear seat. As then plates would need to be welded in and a cert would be required and im not that concerned about it.

 

Also thanks to ol mate @cletus for sorting this out

[piazzanoob]

Another no so important job on the list done.

pulled out this piece of sheetmetal 

Spent a whole bunch of time cutting bending and welding some nuts in to make this

then applied some rattle can black to it

so i guess now your wondering what its for but have some sort of idea in your head.

And your right! its a radio mounting bracket

decided i was sick of driving it with no radio and had planned on making one so put one in.

As the original radio was still in its factory hole but didn't work and i wasn't keen on chopping up the dash to make a modern unit fit. or spending mega bucks having a reproduction one in its place.

was also keen on tucking the radio away from being well seen also so this works

   

And you can see the factory one in the top R/H corner.

Also just used this radio as had got it years ago from a car that was being wrecked. might chuck a nice modern bluetooth item in if i feel like spending money later on down the track.

shes pretty level mate.

so yeah now i have a radio but no speakers.

[piazzanoob]

So with having a radio in the hole and no speakers that was the next job on the list.

so i figured this system would end up with 2 rear 6x9's and one front 6x9 in the dashtop.

so started with the rear by pulling the parcel tray off to mark some holes out to place the speakers

and thats when i came to know really how shit the rear parcel tray was

the material on it is sun fucked and i knew that but figured it would just need a recover

but it had been patched up in the past and done quite poorly plus it was the wrong shape

so i got a piece of plywood and started to make a new one 

this required many hours of cutting and sanding to get the shape right. With also needing to taper the edge due to the chrome trim.

and some weight to get the bow out of the ply too

 

And i guess now your wondering why those speaker holes are small.

well unfortunately there is not enough space without chopping the metal frame below to make two 6x9's fit and to look right too 

As im also not keen on cutting this car up too.

but there is a spot in the centre for one 6x9 on the parcel tray but figured two speakers would be enough.

so i then got to work on how to hold the parcel tray to the metal frame so for when the speakers are working they are not causing rattling issues.

 

so i then routed out these bits in the top of the parcel tray for my mounting plates to be secured in.

oh and the holes are offset because that's where the holes in the metal tray below were.

used some 1.3mm panelsteel and welded a nut to it.

i think these plates were 50 x 50 

sprayed them black and screwed them into place.

i then got some vinyl material from @64vauxhall 

and placed it over the ply using staples and ADOS in a can 

i then bolted it into the car and fitted some soundstream speakers i had.

so all in all i think it came out pretty good considering im not a interior guy or a wood butcher.

but now after ive finshed it and made it would've i been any better off using mdf? 

[piazzanoob]

next job on the list was some wiring work.

The old fuse box in this car was dangling under the dash and missing its cover plus with it having the glass type fuses its well overdue for replacement.

so did some shopping on ali and bought this 

 

for the price the Quality is good 

then the next part of the job was to get @chris r to rewire this new fuse box in 

with chris doing that i made a bracket to hold the fuse box in place.

did some cutting and bending and made this 

And there it is bolted in place tidy under the dash

And placed the cover in upside down for bonus points.

so with that now in and that side of the electrical working 

i just need to order a big fuse and holder and then i can remove the old fuse box from dangling there 

[piazzanoob]

so seen as all the work that was required on the engineers cert check sheet was done.

I arranged a time with him to come view it on one of the hoists at work 

so he comes 

inspects the work and is quite impressed with the chassis repair and replacement floors bits put in.

so figured sweet it will get signed off...

well he wanted where the chassis repair was done painted right up until the wheel arch meets along the back rail and the other side to suit. well FFS i left the underside unpainted so you could see the repair.

then wants the leftover bog taken off the bottom of the sills as when it was painted in the states the sills were bogged and left the bottom side untouched as you cant see it right.

and he also wanted the floor inside the car cleaned up and painted in a couple of areas due to him stating its surface rust. that i was fine with

then he starts going on about the very very light underbody surface rust. to which i said i would get it done after its legal and stated that it would be getting lightly sand blasted then painted.

to which hes reply is

oh just put some rust converter on it then a top coat. cheers m8 

so now im left with more stuff to do and all this stuff being not on the list he wrote. this made my blood boil due to him already inspecting the car and not saying the first time round which fucks me around as i could of already had that stuff done.

so now i have 0 faith in these repair cert cunts doesn't know shit from chewed up dates.