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1jzge/2jzge experts please


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Took my 1995 130 Crown wagon up to Auckland handles way better with new shocks; but the factory non-VVTI 2.5 n/a 1j is slow as shit... The wagons too heavy for it. I'm keen on the idea of throwing a 2jzge in there; the 3.0 will make the wagon get along a lot nicer and turn it into a nice cruiser. And Don't  want to go down the 2jzgte track, So there's a low km non VVTI 2j n/a on TM for sale for $2500 from a JZZ31 94 soarer... Or 1500 without ancillaries... Questions I have is:

1) will the 1j ancillaries bolt onto the 2j?

2)will the 1j ECU run the 2j?

3) do I need a cert for the swap?

anything else I need to consider in what appears to be a straightforward case swapping the sumps and dropping it in???

 

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1 hour ago, Firetruck said:

As long as you have a complete loom and computer it shouldn't be too bad.

Is there something wrong with the 1J? Surely it should boogy the wagon along no worries. If you want a slug, try an NA diesel.

Nah there's nothing wrong with it; I've had n/a 1J Crowns before; they will get going if you push them but I've also had a 2j 155 Crown and that had loads of power; just would like the wagon to get along better and have the engine they shoulda thrown in from the factory. Probably get better mileage too.

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1 hour ago, Firetruck said:

As long as you have a complete loom and computer it shouldn't be too bad.

Is there something wrong with the 1J? Surely it should boogy the wagon along no worries. If you want a slug, try an NA diesel.

How much more power do the VVTI's put out in relation to the non-VVTI?

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How about changing diff ratios? To get some more rpms.

I also am surprised it's as bad as you say... 

I do worry that you could spend lots of money and get fuck all gains.. why don't ya get it on a Dyno and see if hp is where it should be and ask them if they have had na 2js on there that they could compare it with.

Even a decent tunable ECU may way it up better than a swap.

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