ThePog Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Righty ho. My bus has a Nissan ed33 motor which runs totally sweet. It was at work today so dirty old sidewaysickness decided to point out what to do if I ever needed to bleed the fuel system, as he has done it before and I never have. We discovered a manual pump on the side of the governor and figured out it needed twisting to release so it could be pumped. We did this, pumped it a couple of times and reseated it just to see how it functioned, but it turns out it didn't reseat. This was mostly cos it had a plastic cover and it was not that obvious. I drove into town like that, but noted it didn't start on the button as it has always done. When I got back I checked it and found it not seated, so I did this. Now, the engine takes a couple of seconds to fire rather than the instant start previously. It runs fine when on the road, but the slow start is bothering me... Any opinions on where to look? ie, has fucking with the pump introduced a small amount of air/dirt, and should I bleed it anyway? Chur in advance... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Is it like the top one? It's possible it's letting a little air in/ not holding system pressure when shut off. Replace it with the bottom one, they're cheaper than the top one and better. @Hemi 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On the subject of bleeding the fuel, did he show you how/where to let the air out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 If you have unwound that primer and havent done it back up, it WILL suck air those old ones will be all fucked tbh,those bosch spec ones @Mof posted are not expensive and are way better. Yeah,its not really bleeding if you dont bleed the air but if its starting slow but running fine my opinion is you should get the primer back down, it WILL let air in even a couple CC's can cause ballaches. long starting, shitty idle,"doughy" etc. Oh, yes it will have a bleed somwhere, itll be high usually the filter housing (10,12mm spanner nipple similar to brake nipple) by the sound that wont fix the prob though , get the lid back down or grab that bosch primer ( you should they are way better then those sack twist dumb things) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Oh, and it will reseat, when you have reached the bypass pressure she can be a ballache to reseat,hence BUY BOSCH NAOW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Well good shit, this is exactly what I needed to know. Yes it is the top one in the pic. It is idling a little lumpier than usual as well, so all that you boys are saying confirms my hypothesis that there is probably a wee bit of air in there now. Having said that I took it for a drive and things have improved somewhat. I am taking it in to the workshop today, so I will see how it goes this morning. I will take some pics of the relevant areas and post them, it would be good to get an opinion that the things I think are bleed valves actually are. There is not a lot of info for ED33's on the net... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Oh and it is reseated now, just getting it done up against the fuel pressure was the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 I've seen a couple of the plunger parts blow out of the top because they haven't been reseated, diesel everywhere. Get a picture of the top of the fuel filter housing too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Well it seems to have largely cured itself, but for future reference here are the bleedy bits; I am assuming that the two screws with locknuts are the bleed screws...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hemi Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Looks about right. I actually haven't come across that before tbh. Were I servicing I would just crack one of the pipes in the top of the filter housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 No! Don't touch those screws To bring fuel up to the filter (when fitting a new filter or run out of fuel) loosen the 'out' banjo bolt on the filter housing. And pump the primer until fuel flows from the loosened banjo. Tighten banjo. Pump a few more times until the plunger gets stiffer. And If you have run it out of fuel, after you get it to the filter, loosen the injector pipe fittings to the top of the injectors. Crank engine with foot down until fuel starts coming out around the loosened fittings. Tighten fittings. Should start then. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePog Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Alrighty, sounds good. What are those two screws then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Tell you the truth I'm not sure, but I don't play with injector pumps, I let the experts do that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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