xsspeed Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 i should probably have z31 and z32 2+0s right? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 then you can have three cars you'll never work on in your shed rotting. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 xsburn 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted February 15, 2017 Share Posted February 15, 2017 nah that would make 5 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun280z Posted April 5, 2017 Author Share Posted April 5, 2017 Made a bit more progress on this thing. Fired up the car and noticed fuel leaking out of one of the stock injectors. Decided this was a good time to replace them. I scored some 550CC side injectors for a decent price, these are the newer style side feeds so you need an adapter kit to fit them to the early model Z32s. I ordered a kit online then threw them in. Stripped off plenum, removed injectors and fuel rails. Installed new injectors and adapter kits in the rails and then put back on the engine. As the injectors are the newer style I also had to replace the factory Z32 injector plugs with new style ones. I scored a second hand set cut from an old nissan loom and wired in. Thes plugs are so much nicer than the original Z32 ones which are a bitch to unplug and crack when you look at them. Plenum and other hardware reinstalled Due to new larger injectors the ECU needs to be modified to suit. You can socket the factory ECU and burn a new chip for it but I decided to go with the Nistune solution. Once your factory ECU is socketed you simply plug it in and have a fully programmable ECU. You can see the Nistune chip plugged in to the socket, you need to solder a few additional power wires and its sorted. Nistune are always adding functionality to their system. They now include features like flexfuel/e85 compatability, launch control and boost by gear etc. You simply tune via the laptop plugged into the factory nissan consult port. Thay have a pretty comprehensive software package to go along with it. Ready to go back in the car. Then its a case of firing up the laptop, using the resize injector feature in the software to enter the new injector size and you are away. There is additional tuning required to some settings to get idle and mixtures completely correct but the car fired up fine after the resize was done. Installed an Innovative MTX-L wideband to try and stop me turning the engine to flames I also installed a new alloy radiator as the old stock one I had found was pretty sketchy. Had to make up some new top mounting brackets. I also tracked down a factory fan shroud so chucked that on also. I managed to find another rear hatch that had the factory spoiler on it. Its in pretty rough condition but decided to fit it , I think I prefer the look over the wingless version. It will need some tidying up in the future. Still have interior stuff to tidy, front lip to install and lots of tuning to do... 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun280z Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 So i had some issue with the car intermittently dying. I traced it to the PTU (Coil igniter) which from what I have read on line can be a pain in the ass as they supposedly fail quite often. I have a few spares lying around so switched out the one that was causing the problem. Lots of guys online relocate off the engine to a location with less heat and vibration so I did the same. Was just a simple job or extending some wiring and making a quick bracket to mount it. I decide to put it up in the nose as there is plenty of room and its easy to get at. Next up was the front bumper. The lower lip in my bumper was badly cracked and pretty worse for wear. I picked up a fiberglass front lip to try and tidy things up a bit. I used a strong flexible glue to bond the lip to the factory bumper, there was lots of trimming to the old lip to get the new part to fit. Screws helped hold the lip in place while the glue went off The F/G lip was obviously designed for a TT bumper not my NA one so it was too long, I had to cut around 25mm from each end and then re fiberglass new ends to get it to fit ok. Once the glue was hardened i used expanding foam to add some strength between what was left of the old lip and the new F/G one. It looks like a disaster before I trimmed away the excess, the foam makes things a lot more rigid. Then was a case of sanding. priming and painting. I have just used satin black at this stage as the whole bumper needs a respray in the future. Turned out OK. I added some steel brackets to mount the front of the lip back to the body, it is held on pretty well now. Fun times... 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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