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brake requirements with engine upgrade/ boosting drum brakes


maxted

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Correct me if I'm wrong (haven't been under the bonnet of one for a long time) but doesn't the B1500 have a tandem master cylinder? If it does a VH44 (or any single hydrovac)wouldn't be suitable for boosting the original drums.

Have to say I agree with Cletus on this one. Make sure all the hydraulics are in good condition, reline the shoes with medium Padgid compound (or similar) and make sure someone who knows their stuff machines the drums and radiuses the shoes to fit the individual drums.

You might be suprised with the result.

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b1500/1600 1969-77 have single circuit master with drums all-round,  

 

so far I'm thinking,

 

option 1: get shoes re-lined, and try brake test/ maybe add booster depending on feel

 

option 2: try find next generation b1600 solid discs and boost front circuit only. 

 

note: in no way do I want to cheat the certification process i want it to be safe and legal in every way

 

sr2 you are correct it wouldn't be suitable if it was tandem, but i have heard its possible to use two vh44 or the likes to boost both circuit and maybe add proportion valve for rear 

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go for the next gen discs.. I had a landcruiser in oz that was four wheel drums and I was constantly adjusting them, pain in the ass.. so I upgraded them to 60 series discs/hubs and never looked back, plus don't forget that your b6 will be reving to 6500 odd rpm and get you to 100 much faster than your old na/vc

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hmmmm maybe i will try sell later brake set-up and try find 2nd gen solids,

 

according to lvta hobby car manual even if i retained drums i would need to run a dual circuit master anyway, which is far safer so makes sense.

 

the joys of the snow ball effect from thinking hell yea twin cam efi 

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b1500/1600 1969-77 have single circuit master with drums all-round,  

 

so far I'm thinking,

 

option 1: get shoes re-lined, and try brake test/ maybe add booster depending on feel

 

option 2: try find next generation b1600 solid discs and boost front circuit only. 

 

note: in no way do I want to cheat the certification process i want it to be safe and legal in every way

 

sr2 you are correct it wouldn't be suitable if it was tandem, but i have heard its possible to use two vh44 or the likes to boost both circuit and maybe add proportion valve for rear

Option 1: sounds like the path of least resistance and it just may get you through; a booster would allow you to run far harder linings than standard.

Option 2: if parts are available and the conversion is straightforward it would defiantly give you the improvement you’re after. Even older solid rotors have a huge advantage over drums for heat dissipation. If the B1500 and B1600 rear cylinders are the same all you would need to do is use the B1600 master cylinder to get close with brake bias.

You’re correct in that you can use 2 Hydrovacs on a split system (BMW did it years back but in my post I said "single"), you just can’t use one on a split system without radically changing the bias.

You can also use two dissimilar hydrovacs on a single/or split system as a way of increasing front pressure for a disc conversion (eg a 5/8" Vh44 on the front and a 7/8" Vh44D on the rear). I did quite a number of such conversions in the eighty's, they were pretty trick for the times but to be honest they took up a hell of a lot of under bonnet space, were a bloody nightmare to plumb in and bleed and gave you a very average pedal!

Avoid using a ‘proportioning valve’ if you can, most are really only pressure limiting valves and are no up to radically changing brake bias (e.g. going from drum/drum to drum/disc).

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haha yeah i didn't really think about the brakes thoroughly when i decided to ditch the dirty ole carb NA for the B6ze otherwise it all would of been fine, hopefully someone else wants some re-kitted brakes for a stock b1600 lol

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