Sheepers' MS65 Crown

[Julwer]

Have been working away on this little gem for just over a year now and decided it was about time she was revealed to oldschool even in her naked state.

 

Most of this decision was based on me reaching a point where I need help making more decisions hah. For example:

 

- Paint

- Wheels

- Suspension

- Body massaging

- Engine mods and fitting

- Where to find parts

etc

 

I think I have read 97% of all the Crown projects and their corresponding discussions on here and that alone has helped make a few decisions. It has also pointed out the Royal family of Crown owners/gurus (Camel, Sheepers, Seedy Al, Spencer etc) so input from you guys will be highly regarded!

 

I very nearly committed to the job of fitting bags with a hefty overseas purchase at my fingertips. However the owner of this fine car building garage (daddy) has announced his plan to sell up! But he did promise another shed. So she needs to roll on her own four feet sooner than planned. This has put suspension on hold and reassembly on the spool (cause it needs speeding up..like what a turbo does.. spool..  lame).

 

Power-plant choice. This very standard model came with a floor shift 4-speed manual snuggled up with the legendary 4m. Including this one (which btw, the guy I bought the car off said he paid $800 for!! Cause it had been rebuilt..), I have three 4m motors. The others are in pieces. I am interested to know more about one of them as it has a rocker cover that I haven't seen on any of the 4m's on OS and I think the block it goes with is blue? After a quick wikipedia search it looks similar to the rocker cover found on the 2m's used in Toyotas 2000GT. But I must be dreaming!! Will look at this later.

I would prefer nothing to do with the 4m's so set about finding a suitable successor. The options and reasons not to:

 

- 1 or 2jz: No mid-sumps around, cunt to convert fuel system to efi and wiring ecu is a nightmare...I've heard.

- 1uz: Cunt to fit between suspension arms unless you roll cool with no exhaust system...at all. Can be done but I'm not interested.

- 3 or 5v: Not a lot of power, even more of a cunt to fit due to starter motor etc (refer to seedy Al's brown wagon)

 

So..I chose a holden 202.

 

It uses a carburetor (easy), it's known to fit in Crowns with new mounts, heaps of parts out there, can bolt onto toyota gearboxes (not sure about that one?), not too hard to get more power out of, cheap, badass, I'm sure there's more but you get where I'm coming from.

 

Sorry for the Novel but love makes you lose track.

 

Here's a couply picks to keep you going and a link to discussion up next. Give me your thoughts! Good, bad or UGLY.

 

Oh and realised just the other day that I've lost like 50 photos of the chassis and how all it's components go together so currently wingin' it. Let me know if I've done something wrong or could do it better.

 

^Wires nice in safe in the dog biscuit bag

 

Bought white primer by mistake lolz.

 

 

Got to use a sand blaster for a couple of weeks to went all out right down to the metal before getting to this.

 

 

Diff leaked like a bitch so re-did all of the gaskets and got new oil seal etc

 

 

My 'Black' 202. Thinking stage 2 or 3 cam, triple carbs, extractors, super fly paint and chrome works. Oh and came with the T5 (5-speed manual). Anyone know if it'll fit in the tunnel?

 

 

Cut bump stops. Cause suspension is for pussies.

 

Shiny brake lines.

 

Underseal

 

Have heaps more pics on my phone of other shit.. will get around to it one day.

 

 

Crizzle.

[Julwer]

Discuss here:

 

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/39463-julwers-ms65-crown-chitty-chat/

[Julwer]

Just picked up an engine hoist to borrow from a mates mate for a box of Waikato. Will use it to sort out engine placement on the chassis so I can whip up some new mounts.

 

Also picked up the front disc/rotor seals so can put them back onto the stub axles and fit reconditioned calipers and brake lines. Will probably do all this before lining up the motor so it's sitting on it's wheels rather than firewood.

 

Managed to FINALLY track down a mid sump that came off a 202 in either an HR, HT or HG. So picked that up for $30.

 

AND tomorrow I'm checking out some extractors on my way over* to the Crown which will hopefully meet my needs.

 

*I work usually in Hamilton but am constantly moving around so could end up in Taranki, Taupo, Rotorua etc for work for around 10 weeks at a time. That's why I only get to work on the crown in the weekends at my dads place near Te Puke (TE PUKE THUNDER!!). So progress will be rather slow..

 

Julwer

[Julwer]

A few more pics

 

Hoist for the weekend and sump on the right there.

 

 

 

Extractors

 

 

Current stage of chassis

 

Rebuild of calipers

 

 

 

 

Julwer

[Julwer]

Update in yo face.

 

Got the discs back on so I could then fit the calipers and break lines. Also managed to start tearing apart the 202 to get it on the hoist and line 'er up to start sorting mounts. Also did a bit more undersealing and shit on the newly installed items for premium protection.

 

SO.. pic deliverance for all you lads that like the pretty pictures

 

Old and new disc/rotor to stub axle oil seals. Notice how flat the wide bit on the old ones is...new ones show how it's meant to be pointy.

 

old

 

new

 

 

Dads trusty magical grease holding potion. He reckons once you mix it with grease, you can hit the grease with a hammer and it'll just flex.. not splatter. Probably not news to most of you guys.. I just cracked up at the bottle.

 

Tunnel of grease

 

Nicely cleaned up stub axles with just a smear of grease lightning.

 

Shiny calipers and discs

 

Brake lines

 

 

VICTORY!!  of stage 1   Firewood out! Wheels in!

 

 

This photo shows that I've got 60mm between wheel and chassis, yet on the other side, it's 80mm because the sway bar is pushing the axle away due to the scientific term: max slamness, found in the area of study know as slamology.

Does anyone know a fix for this? Maybe an adjustable sway bar or shorter sway bar? Where can I get one?

 

Or is this not a big issue? The gearbox cross member is currently 92mm (has big tyres on though.. hope to get it right on 100 when all said and done) off the ground but it's sitting on cut bump stops. So the suspension (once in) will take away some of the problem. Thoughts?

 

 

 

Have also got two 4m's and one 4m-u if anyone wants them or parts for them. I have all the water pumps, alternators and a couple of exhaust and inlet manifolds. Heaps of other shit too like oil cooling radiators. One of them has been rebuilt and is currently assembled but not sure about the outer stuff. This is one of the blocks (has high compression pistons which the others don't??)

 

Oh and also have a brand new carburetor gasket kit and 4m head gasket. 

 

 

 

 

Now to the 202.

Swapped the sump for one of an HT so it would fit between the crossmember and steering rack.

 

 

Got her all lined up and marked out on the chassis. Now time to rebuild it. Decided I may as well do all the rings, seals and bearings while I've got it in this state.

 

 

Thought you might like a pic of when I first picked the crown up.. it'd been sitting in a shed for years until someone decided to do the body work. Then it sat a bit longer. Then I saved her. Then I realised I've lost that photo too.. fml.. it was special.

 

Wont be able to work on it for the next few weeks so you'll have to cope without an update for a bit. Until then

 

 

Julwer

[sheepers]

well would you look at that.

this car is now in my shed...........................

[sheepers]

FUCK OK LETS JUST CLARIFY!!!!!

 

this car now has a 4M in it. 

i know Ms are bad but there is no fucking way i would condone a downgrade to a massive pile of shit like a 202.

not on my watch.

[sheepers]

current state.

 

2018-03-15_05-51-27 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-15_05-51-37 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-15_05-51-49 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

so the car came with a USB stick full of photos some of which show the engine being reconditioned. all signs point to this being the case. the shell is in amazingly good condition. the doors are rust free and the rest of its only got a couple of small holes on the rear arches. shes pretty good all round really.

makes my life easier.

[sheepers]

painted the firewall and door shuts so i can re-assemble the motor and get the front back on then get it runing.

i looked for some factory crown colour codes and i couldn't find anything definite so i chose a toyota code from the period. now that ive put some paint on the car it seems ive inadvertently painted it the same colour as my RA23. i didnt do this on purpose it just happened.  

 

2018-03-18_01-33-03 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-18_01-34-12 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-18_01-33-33 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-18_01-33-45 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

ive started putting the motor back together so i can get this thing running.

so far ive found most of the bits needed in the parts that came with the car, a couple are fucked and ill have to make something but so far so good.

ive asked Nick the sparky to check out the starter (there are two to choose from so hes picking the best) and the alternator (3 to choose from) so i can fit the best one.

ive bought new gaskets and started the process.

 

2018-03-20_12-14-40 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-20_12-14-50 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

brakes and clutch.

it goes without saying the both master cylinders are completely fucked along with the proportioning valve. the booster seems fine so ive used that.

brake master. 84 - 88 pajero  (NB NC ND) is a good replacement. they come in 7/8 bore and 15/16. stock is 15/16 but either will work fine. if you fit one CHECK YOUR PUSHROD CLEARANCE! 

2018-03-20_08-46-07 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

clutch master. the ubiquitous AE86  clutch master fits straight up more or less.

2018-03-20_08-45-09 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

and now for the proportioning valve. obviously the stock item was both complex and completely fucked. i was having yarns with the blokes at Sterling Brake and Clutch and they clued me in on a Mitsubishi chariot valve that does the same job but is a billion times less complicated. this valve goes in your rear brake line. thats it. front brake line goes to the fornt brakes all by itself and you put this in the rear brake line. factory chariot has two and when you buy this thing it comes with two valves but if you only have one rear line (like most oldschool cars) just put it in the line. they had a spare and here it is. im not sure which way around it goes but ill figure that out tomorrow.

 

so you can replace this,

2018-03-20_08-45-48 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

with this,

 

2018-03-20_08-46-25 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

fuck the bracket off obviously and your on to a winner. 

so we get closer to making this thing run.

 

if i havent mentioned it before i will now and again and again and again....

 

THIS CAR IS FOR SALE.  if your keen hit me up. this thing is going to be fucking legit.

[sheepers]

continuing on with this. im going to try and get it started, possibly tomorrow.

all the heater hoses are done. its got a starter and an alternator (that both work, thanks Nick for checking them out for me) the wiring seems to be non fucked and everything is in the right spot. its got accelerator, brakes and a clutch. i need to stick the radiator on just hanging off the hoses for now and sort out the coil and some plug wires. it should go then.

 

2018-03-22_07-33-32 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-22_07-33-23 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

20180324_170507 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

Nick the fucking good cunt sparky came over  sat arvo and we got the bastard going. needed to find and rewire the started trigger and give the points a tickle up but after that it fired right up. it goes great and starts off the key no worries.

 

spent today fucking around with vacuum hoses  and just generally getting it to run properly. it seems a little rich but TBH i have no way of actually knowing this its just a guess.

anywho it runs fine and its quite as.

so i started getting the rad support and inner guards ready for paint but then i decided that they really need to be acid dipped to get the rust and shit off them properly so ive loaded up the v8 with bits that can be dipped and ill get that under way tomorrow.

 

already spending way to much on a car im going to sell.

somewhere up the top it says sheepers is fucked in the head........ 

[sheepers]

front panels back from strippers.

 

2018-03-28_06-17-29 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-28_06-17-11 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

2018-03-29_02-18-52 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

2018-03-30_10-44-55 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

spent today painting more things.

i forgot to paint the bonnet hinges so i painted those blue and i had a whole bunch of the headlight brackets and stuff dipped so i needed to paint those black. i figured id paint them all at the same time so i didnt waste clear.

i thought id pain the rocker cover too as i was doing black it could get a coat at the same time.

i painted the black first and the blue second. by complete fluke i got a layer of blue overspray on the rocker cover then i clear coated the whole lot. 

it looks fucking choice, complete accident but it looks amazing. ill do this again in the future with something.

 

2018-03-30_04-04-38 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-30_04-04-56 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

2018-03-30_05-07-01 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-30_05-18-21 by sheepers, on Flickr

[sheepers]

got it going again and took it for its first drive up the end of the road.

 

2018-03-31_03-38-57 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-31_03-38-47 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-03-31_03-38-36 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

it goes mint, did a couple of skids just because and everything seems to be working ok.

its fucking ludicrously high though, looks stupid all skyscraper spec. but lowering it might have to be the new owners job.

[sheepers]

painted the door insides and the hinges.

just realised i have to take the front guards off again to mount the front doors. bummer.

ill stick the doors back on it tomorrow and try and get it all aligned.

in other news the guy i bought it off found the hood lining and the door cards which were missing and they are all in top condition (for a 40 year old car) so thats a good. 

 

2018-04-07_01-29-35 by sheepers, on Flickr

 

2018-04-07_01-29-47 by sheepers, on Flickr