1987 1uz e30 (the Sake Bomb.)

[Guest d.p.n.s]

thanks for that Tai

the only real this is making the headers from scratch (not a problem for you mate working at pitstop)

but it shouldnt be to hard.

cheers

dan

[Guest Taistorm]

Tony at lynchbuilt engineering has been producing engine hugging headers for the 1uz if space is an issue, unless you're looking at making them up yourself. From memory he had a few sets of watercut flanges as well.

[Guest ProZac]

One of the guys at work has a vvti 1uz in an Altezza, I took it for a quick drive down the road the other day, and its pretty damn torquey. Quite fast and really nice to drive, the power was just there whenever you needed it. It's let down a little by a slightly didgy 350z six speed transmission, but once that is sorted, it'll be a bloody nice car to drive. Must weight quite a bit more than an E30 too. The early motors are a little bit trickier to get power out of, but if you go to an aftermarket ecu, and build a nice set of headers, there are gains to be had.

[Guest d.p.n.s]

ive had a drive in 2 now both e30s one auto and one manual both completly standard motors and both complete cars with big sound systems and

both went very well but the auto was shit

but all in all i cant wait to see what its like in a stripped out shell.

[Guest Truenotch]

I drove Sheepers' car at the Nats trackday and I now want a 1UZ . They deliver their power like a 4 cylinder (higher in the RPM) but there is LOTS more torque.

[Guest d.p.n.s]

would go nice in your race car ..........or an other project?

[Guest Truenotch]

There's another one half built with a 1UZ mounted that I'm considering... Lots of work to do (front steering rack, finish rollcage, sheet metal work around the engine / gearbox tunnel, re-do 4 link rear) but I'm keen now.

[Guest d.p.n.s]

sounds sweet

[Guest d.p.n.s]

getting on with the enigine wiring and cutting everything not needed out.

just need a pinout for the 28 pin plug on the ecu 89661-50241

if anyone can help.

cheers

[Guest Truenotch]

Simon just got his running before nats. I'll alert him to this thread.

[Guest d.p.n.s]

cheers brotha

[Guest Simon]

Sweet project man. Here are the pinouts for the 28 pin plug assuming this is the later model sequential injection motor like mine.

You will need to use OXR2 and OXL2 if you don't have four O2 sensors, just loop them into OXL1 and OXR1 so the ECU thinks there are 4 sensors. The others are pretty straight forward in this plug. I would use MREL for the fuel pump rather than having it on the ignition because the ECU will turn off the fuel pump in a crash.

I wouldn't go cutting too much out of the loom just yet.

Use Nigels thread - lots of information - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30736-how-to-wire-up-a-1uz-engine-vvti-and-non-vvti/

The ecu will run the engine in limp mode (low rev limit, no power and excess fuel) if any major fault codes are thrown, so make sure you have the engine check light wired up along with the oil pressure and charge lights before you start it.

My motor came with a dudd AFM so thats the only thing holding me up at the moment but no Toyota wreckers in NZ have one for under $300 so will be looking in Japan after testing mine with the scope.

[Guest snapper]

Simon, is this the AFM you're looking for?

[Guest d.p.n.s]

thanks for that

i have taken all i want off the loom repluged it all back up and put it all back together

i got power to the ecu and the worning light to work.

will build a board for the ecu and relays next week and do that wiring put some oil in it

and fuel and se if it starts and runs.

cheers

dan

[Guest Simon]

Simon, is this the AFM you're looking for?

Nah need one like this - http://www.spn-partner.com/stocksearch/pic/054000/19006831/02.jpg

The one you posted bolts into a big box. It might work but I'd rather just get the right one. Cheers though.

thanks for that

i have taken all i want off the loom repluged it all back up and put it all back together

i got power to the ecu and the worning light to work.

will build a board for the ecu and relays next week and do that wiring put some oil in it

and fuel and se if it starts and runs.

cheers

dan

No worries.

Its definitely not necessary to make one of those big "connection" boards with 50 relays and 25 fuses unless you have stripped all the wiring out of the car. I've only got like two relays, one big dog factory one that powers ignitors, injectors and all the sensors etc and one that does the fuel pump. I've used everything in the factory fuse/relay boxes. Its easier to just spend a bit longer finding out where everything goes and most of the time it goes to a holder in a relay / fuse box so plugging one in is easier than building a custom box. Things like fan relays and starter relays will already be waiting in a box somewhere.

[Guest Simon]

When I do it in my other car though I'll be stripping all factory wiring and boxes to get the engine bay clean. I'll probably use a fet board in the cabin instead of a relay bank because they are about the size of a credit card rather than a laptop. Could easily incorporate small fuses into that too.

[Guest shizzl]

id runa big 4 barrel carby on that 1uz

[Guest d.p.n.s]

ok so i thought i would check the fualt codes and it came up with

31- something to do with the AFM

47-something to do with the tps (maybe to do with the fact i removed all the traction controll shit)

56- Hydrostatic Fan not connected.

see if i can sort that

[Guest d.p.n.s]

well fault code 56 is -hydrostatic fac or i have to

(You will need to use OXR2 and OXL2 if you don't have four O2 sensors, just loop them into OXL1 and OXR1 so the ECU thinks there are 4 sensors.)

i .have done this and code is still there so must be fan

[Guest d.p.n.s]

Nah need one like this - http://www.spn-partn...19006831/02.jpg

thats the same as mine .how did you know its was fucked?