Guest kp60nick Posted March 27, 2013 Share Posted March 27, 2013 Had to laugh at how he cut the metal out for the old camber plates. yea at max camber it look like they didnt need to cut out mounting point for the third bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 looking good man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drivekp60 Posted May 19, 2013 Share Posted May 19, 2013 starting to look really nice. the old setup looked mental. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted May 19, 2013 Author Share Posted May 19, 2013 Thanks guys. It's coming along slowly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 tell me more, about your intended 5 link setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Well it probably won't achieve anything great. But I don't like it how the top arms cross under the chassis rail and could potentially hit the rail. Sooooo plan is to make the top arm straight go through the floor and mount to the bottom bar of the cage. Then move the lower arm mount on the body to behind the little box that it sits on at the moment. And because top arm is moved there will be a whole heap of space above lower arm to travel up. And change how lower arm mounts to diff to make it parallel with road. Then because all arms will be parallel so I intend to run a panhard rod. I will be running coilovers, unsure if I will run a sprint car coilover that cardwels sells or something from s13 etc... It will mount on bottom with two lugs that come off diff / lower arm bracket with a bolt though it. Up top it will be coming though floor at the same point as the shock did. And make another bar from the cage that goes back around behind the shock mount and across to do the same on the other side. Put a plate up under that bar and coilover mounts to that. Will see if I can draw something on paint to explain that a bit more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Hopefully this helps explain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 sounds good, should improve handling a bit if you get it setup right. whats the idea behind moving the lower link at the body end? to try correct the geometry more? are you going to make the top links the same length as the bottom? sorry about all the questions, i been thinking about doing this to mine and how i'd do it, for ages. but always been too much effort to get in there with the angle grinder. kinda given up now though., as have been laying alot of blame on the trianglated setup for sloppy ass end syndrome. but after fixing the toe on the diff case its way way better you might find s13 coilovers too long, could run turrets but cage looks to be in the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Thanks man. The lower link move is mostly just for ground clearance. But I guess it will correct geometry a bit. I will try and make top link and bottom links same length. If that is good? Most of my reason for doing this is for low. 2nd reason is for that cross under chassis. 3rd reason just want to see if I can do it. I like making shit not really to fussed on the whole driving side. I'm not sure how long s13 coilovers are but rough measurements from lower link to cage are 520 mm. Don't know if that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 biggest drama ive found with going low. is the drive shaft angles. nose of diff hits the floor before they are correct, but this might be different with the k series stuff. stock links shouldn't hit anywhere. the top link mounts on the diff and the case itself will hit first. but in saying this, would be good to correct the angles and make parallel link setup if you have the motivation. yeh make the links the same length if you can. but not a huge drama if you are running hard suspension. if i was doing it i would: make some boxes up for the top links, to weld into the floor. with a range of holes up and down, so you can adjust the links. would probably leave the bottom link body mount as is. (never had any drama with ground clearance always other stuff) on the diff end would make an extended mount with a range of holes as well. the angle of links make a huge difference to handling and straight line grip. so good to be able to adjust them can probably measure the s13 stuff in my trueno for you, over the next week sometime. if i remember when im there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted May 26, 2013 Author Share Posted May 26, 2013 Thanks for all your input I have got alot to think about before I start cutting the old girl up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piazzanoob Posted July 31, 2016 Share Posted July 31, 2016 would be keen on some updates on this if there has been any that is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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