Muncie Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Hey guys been franticly trying to get car a wof this weekend so rear brakes were basicly shot dripping fluid next to no handbrake, Thought i best not muck around as my wife wants to use it as her daily over summer so bought new wheel cylinders and shoes fitted those up no worries. went to bleed them couldnt get a drop out of it either side with both bleed nipples opened i still had a firm pedal feels like normal basicly. tracked line back up to engine bay no damage on that so suspect eye locked onto the brass block that all the lines split off from (has warning light sensor in it too) ripped it out blew all crap out and notice couldn't see thru port that feeds rear brakes run drill thru it chucked back in, second attempt at bleeding getting bit of fluid thru now but pedal wont go to floor for full pump like its pushing against the front. So on a dual circuit system should the front brakes bypass thru to the back when bleeding? never struck this before despite owning close to 30 of these cars in past. Any ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Borgweiser Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 possibly a blocked rear brake hose? I would start there then start looking at the master cylinder. It's possible the washer that sits on the piston is stuck and the front circuit is working but not the rear. Also try a gravity bleed, if it's been an empty circuit it's good to just open taps and walk away for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted November 24, 2012 Author Share Posted November 24, 2012 suspect the back brakes may have been locked off for skids by previous owner by jamming something in the brass distribution block. hence putting a drill thru it got fluid flowing again but yeah brakes are working ok front are back to normal but cant really tell how well rears are working. would hate for my wife to need to jump on them and not have rears working. normally i do the old open valve at back left foot to floor shut valve repeat method but cant push pedal to floor its like rears are completely separate from front, and front is giving a firm pedal while trying to bleed rear. fucking odd and making me a tad furious aye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Older cars had a by pass in the master cylinder that when there was a leak in front or back the bypass would kick in and shut off the affected cylinder , so some how maybe you need to reset your master cylinder . I could be wrong tho!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVMPAJ Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/master-brake.htm Here ya go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted November 25, 2012 Author Share Posted November 25, 2012 that explains it bummer will have to put a bit more thought into it now. for now i reverse bled it by using a old clutch cylinder to push fluid back up the line seems to have it working but will be revisting brakes next weekend. when i stripped rear brakes both cylinders were rooted and leaking but had stopped using brake fluid must have shut itself off as the article said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted November 26, 2012 Share Posted November 26, 2012 Also, be aware that with old cars, master cyclinder bores and get loaded with crap where the piston hasnt been going all the way to the end of its travel, due to pushing the fluid to the cyclinders. So when you bleed, this crap can make the piston sticky as its travelling into this "dirty area". i normally leave a few seconds in between pumps to allow the piston to return to full travel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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