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EURON8's LADA 1500/VAZ 2103/Жигули


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Its time to play the old "What colour should I do my wheels?" game!

As you can see, the cars an off white/beige colour, and I cant decide if I should paint the rims good ol shiney ass black, or try a dash of colour? Any ideas people?

Note: Its going to retain the chrome hubbies which will shine up nicely, and have 45mm deep flappers/fake white walls on the tyres.

Regards, VG.

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Just realised that was a pictureless/shit update, so thought I better chuck some pics up/still a shit update sorry.

Decided the first thing i'd do was fix the heater tap set up, and put the dash back together, as the last owner failed to do either, so looks like this at the mo,

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Had a crack at gluing the wood grain back on the dash (check out the fucking sweet gauges, they are fucking sweet) and glove box, will soon see how thats turned out,

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Pegged like your mum,

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I also lowered the front number plate to gain awesome handling/can no longer hand crank it, and removed the super rusty, shitfuck roof racks it had. Once the interior is done, and the cooling/heating systems are all go, i'll get stuck into the springs/shocks. I also have a few trinkets on their way to gussy it up a bit.

Heres a pic for Duds to p-chop, to lasy to email it.

2012-04-30_17-30-47_393.jpg

Regards, VG.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rite, lame update time, got the heater core and new heater tap all back in, with the help of a stainless 90 deg bend, and a hose from super cheap that happened to be exactly the rite shape and length!

2012-05-06_13-57-18_646.jpg

Once that was done, I put the dash back together, and started giving it a clean up. I love the interior in this car, the gauges and wood grain is awesome, and even the door cards are sweet IMO.

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I also recently received a few trinkets (as whores will have their trinkets)

Set of flappers,

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Single fog light,

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Seat cover,

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And the most important accessory, my Lada driving hat!

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I have also found a set of Niva springs, which should be here next week, so I can start on the choppy choppy/lowerry lowerry.

And it has been decided that this is (well pretty damn close to) the wheel colour i'm going with,

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I'll have the rims sand blasted and painted after the cars lowered.

ALSO, the motor had mega cam chain noise, and I was all :? . Then I read in the manual you have to tension the chain manually every 10000km, I :lol: . I read on and found out you just have to loosen a bolt on the side of the block, turn the motor round 1.5+ times, and then re-tighten the bolt, and its done, which I did and it sounds chur as now, which made me a combination of 8) and :D

Regards, VG.

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  • 1 month later...

Did a tiny bit of work on this,

Put a new set of head lights in it. Worked out (with the help of J5 and Bro in law) that each of the four lights has its own fuse, some of which tested ok, but were dodgy, causing the lights to do weird things. Sorted that.

Worked out that it was yet another dodgy fuse causing the alternator not to charge, sorted that.

While the lights were out I gave the front panel a quick clean up, but cant get a yuck enough shade of beige in a can, so will have to try get a few cans colour matched and filled for me.

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The car has lots of small patches of surface rust like this all over it, where the previous owner has brushed over it with paint.

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Cleaning up the front, its had a light hit on the left hand side, so theres a bit of bog in there.

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The bumpers quite fucked. It looks a lot worse IRL, I spent ages trying to straighten it, but its fucked.

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I also started on the lowering, whipped out a rear spring, lol'ed me that even with the diff at full droop/shock disconnected I still had to compress the springs.

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OG spring VS Niva one, were meant to be different, but they are exactly the same. So I have an extra set if I cock up the cutting.

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Did a bit of cutting and fitting, ended up this long.

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Did both sides, had to take the three bump stops out, and the panhard rod is sitting on the exhaust (no biggie) but is about the hight I wanted. Its sitting a little bit lower on the RH side (rim to arch measurement) but the jack point to road measurement is exactly the same, so not 100% sure whats going on there, the fucken haggard drive is prolly to blame, need to get it on some flat ground. Will do the front springs, then go around and get it sitting nice and even all round. Then its find some shocks time!

Regards, VG.

P.S. TOLD YOU IT WASNT A DEAD PROJECT!

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Did a little more tinkering this afternoon. Removed a hub cap to find a no doubt dizzy lizard,

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After fucking around for FUCKING AGES, I got a front spring out. I had to make an internal spring clamp, which was a cunt to get in, I wound it up as tight as I could, and then let the suspension rite out, and some how, the spring was still tensioned to the MAX! So got a long bit of pipe, and after a bit of pissing about, flung the spring out.

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The longer one is the 2103 spring, the shorter one is from a Niva,

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Did a few cut N fits, and it ended up about here (around 80mm lower all round) which is about level, but still needs to go a bit lower. I ran out of time/light/cutting discs, so only did one side, ha. One thing that sucks is both ends of all the springs just end, they dont flatten out, and the top and bottom spring perches are shaped to take the end of the spring, so the spring has to start and end in a certain place, which means you have to cut full coils off to make it look legit. I did this, but the cut springs dont end in the rite place, meaning the factory ones must coil up when compressed or some shit?

Regards, VG.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, this is as low as its going for now (its about where I wanted it anyways) would need major surgery on the front bump stop mounts to go any lower, I doubt it will even get a wof at this high, ha. I'm not sure if it matters for a wof, but the spring coils dont end in the correct place to fit the shaped recesses?

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Now to measure up and find shocks, and to make some custom bump stops that look factory-ish.

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  • 4 weeks later...

2012-08-05_16-56-51_6791.jpg

Its got its face back finally.

While I was under the front, I noticed with no bump stop in there, I can just get my finger through the gap between the top arm and the bump stop plate, haha, so no way a bump stop will fit in there, gonna have to do some fucking around, and hope WOF man dont notice. Off to troll russian lada sites to see how its done, lols. Tho, I wonder if they have a WOF system there.

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Rite, I had a good look at the front suspension in this thing today (with no wheel on, but loaded as it would be normally) and to keep it at the height it is now, I will have to not only drill out the spot welds and move the bump stops up (easy to do) but also I will have to trim some meat out of the top suspension arm (and box it back up) so it clears the shock mount tube thing. Also, sitting on flat ground, the ends of the lower arms are about 75mm off the ground, so wont be able to get WOF/Fuzz would bust me, so unfortunately, even just to stay at the present height, i'm going to have to get a cert.

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^ As you can see here, theres only about 10mm from the top arm to the bump stop mount, and if you look to the left edge of the bump stop mount, you will see the arm is only mm away from hitting the shock mount tube, so the arm will have to be modified.

Only other option would be to lift it back up 20-30mm, but we all know thats not really an option.

Bit gay that its going to take a lot more work and cost than I had hoped for just to lower it, but hell, atleast it will be all kosher in the end. I have to get stuck in, as I want to take this to hawks bowls.

ALSO, I got a nice crusty old roof rack to go on this sucker, which will come in handy for future trips.

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Lovely.

Regards, VG.

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:x

This is pretty much me rite now.

SO FUCKING FURIOUS!!!!!!!

I ring the only certifier in the area, tell him what I plan to do, he says hes not qualified to cert modified suspension arms, and gives me a number for a guy in Hams who is. I tell him what I need to do, he says I have to get a fancy drawing done of what I plan to do/materials used bla bla bla and send it to some place for a "TAC" evaluation, then they work out if its going to be OK to carry out the work. If they OK it, I can then have the work done, but then have to have it x ray crack tested, and then I can go to the cert guy in Hams and get a cert.

Soooo to keep it at the hight it is now, it will cost me $900 in tests and shit.

:cry:

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  • 4 weeks later...

Soooooo had a better look at the two main patches of rust, one of which was just under the corner of the windscreen, decided the windscreen had to come out to remove the rust propper like. Turns out i'm not as good at taking out windscreens as I used to be, lololololols, so will start looking for a new screen tomorrow. It had a huge ass deep scratch accross it, and was starting to delaminate anyways, so no big loss. (thats what i'm telling myself anyways)

The rust aint that bad really, and should be fairly easy to fix, all the rest seems to only be surface spec,

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In other news, the last time I had it running, it did a big wee on the drive,

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So I got a new heater pipe thing,

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I also chopped down my bump stops from the back,

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And then vulcanised bolts into them, so once they are in, they look factory issue (you cant see the bolts)

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I also got a new front bumper, which shined up quite well (pic is pre-buff-fest)

2012-09-05_20-38-23_3991.jpg

I also got a new brake hose, as the back one to the diff is mega poo poo, and would not have passed a WOF.

I also got the wheels sand blasted on Thursday,

2012-09-06_07-07-24_57.jpg

and then took them to the painter. Picked them up today, the colour is, well, kinda interesting, but should look ok. Tyres and flappers were getting fitted today, and I pick them up tomorrow.

Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd thats all for tonight.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Rite, got the new shocks (big thanks to the guys involved in getting them for me, you beauties!) They are from the front of many GMC/Chevy vans/pickups, and juuuuusssssst fit in due to their fatness, but work awesomely. I didnt have to change the front ones, i've cut 4 coils/4" off the springs, and the std shocks still keep them captive .... bahahaahahahahaha.

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Then got my rims painted, tyres and flappers fitted and greased,

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Spent many a night finishing the main rust patches and a few big dents, painted a few patches, had the new windscreen fitted, fixed a few things WOF related, and took it in for its test, which it passed first pop :shock: (tho I still have a few things to fix that i'm not 100% happy with) and it now looks like this,

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So far i'm very happy with it, just a pitty its so patchy, lols. Now to change a brake hose, get the brakes working a bit better, and sort out the horrid noise it makes when you turn right (sounds like the back left axles falling out :? )

Regards, VG.

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OK, so, the left rear axle sounded like it was moving side to side, which it was. The bearing was a little worn, so have a new one on the way, so that should fix the shamez az brake drum rubbing noise, pic for the hell of it,

2012-10-10_18-31-42_734.jpg

I also whipped out the old brake hose and fitted the new one. I'm no WOF inspector, but i'm pretty sure this is poked, (looks worse IRL)

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AND I found out on the weekend, that when you are four up and starting off, it makes a horrid noise like the drive shaft hitting the bottom of the car, eww. Well, it turns out the drivers side seat belt stalk bolt sticks into the tunnel about 10/15mm, enough for the drive shaft to hit it under load/max low,

2012-10-10_18-31-23_494.jpg

So I cut the bolts back a bit, hope that sorts it out. Pretty close to ready for its first OS outing to HB's!

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  • 3 months later...

This is one of those pointless posts where people just post new pics of their car for no real reason. Thanks to the photo-takers for these shots.

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Also, have done a few decent trips in this, with no problems at all, seems to run a treat. Have had a lot of people come up and talk to me about it, and heaps of thumbs up from passes by, everyones been very chipper about it, so its good its not discriminated against for being a Lada, lololols.

Regards, VG.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Thought id better stake my claim to this.

 

Brought it off VG the week before Nationals

She drove amazingly the whole way down and most of the weekend.

Nats Sunday on way to the grasskhana the waterpump spat the dummy and i was left with a horrid grinding noisy caused by a collapsed bearing.

Thanks to simon/richie/corbie/poo/fels/chickity/kurt for the help and patience on the monday while we organised getting it sent back home to Auckland.  

 

Got it back - got a waterpump - all go again. 

 

Last Sunday i had the esteemed privilege of being hand picked by (one of*) New Zealands leading automotive photographer for a wee shoot 

* to save people getting all butthurt over a jovial comment

 

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Immediate plans are to continue the tidy up ready for our wedding in June.

Following that :

 

- A quick trip to the Auto Upholsterer for fix a few rips and tears  

- Wire up a few accessories i have waiting plus the spotlight

- The above wiring will be part of a total engine bay rework - its quite small and packed so hiding some wiring, moving the battery, cleaning parts etc to make it more presentable.

 

- and of course - start looking into options for getting it lower.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Better update this aye?

 

Well the WOF and REG ran out before we went on our honeymoon so she sat slightly unloved while we were away and for a few weeks after.

 

It now is all legal beagle and ready* for summer cruising,

 

She performed great at the OS drag day, even spinning up both wheels for the burnout.

 

* however, After fanging about for the last couple of days, i believe the fuel pump is slightly more worn, it no longer idles, smokes much more than it used to, smells heavily of fuel and is getting terrible km/lt like 5ishkms per litre. the valve guides need doing too, so the hunt is on for a spare engine/head.

 

Will check out a spare pump that P-star has and see if that's all good and chuck it on. Might buy a new one next year as they aren't to expensive.

 

One of the other jobs on the list is a full engine bay rewire/tidyup. Relays and wires are just everywhere and its horrid. 

One more piece to this puzzle arrived today, should look good with the ammo box i will cut up to contain all the fuses/relays etc.

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Back in July i brought these from Japan, and they arrived 6 weeks later,

13x6 +10 Starsharks 98pcd so they were pretty cheap :)

I finally got around to trying them on today

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As you can see they sit pretty good on the front so this pair will ride up front, the hunt is on for another pair slightly wider or lower offset for the back. Im quite fond of the whole mismatched thing so whatever comes will should suffice.

 

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They need a solid refurb and a paint, Unfortunately they are welded and i don't really want to split them, I'll just spend some time masking them well.

 

Colours?? I'm open to suggestions.

 

Don't worry, the steels will remain, these will be for local meets/cruises when moar slam is desired. 175/50s are leading the tyre choice atm. It will have moderate gap at the front but i can deal with that.

 

The steels however will be getting a slightly smaller front tire to follow the russian boys and help get the front down that smidgen more that it needs.

 

 

Oh and this is pretty much how it looks now, The light bar will be remade the tags for the lights then zinc plated when im back at work. They, along with the front one will be wired up when the re wire happens.

 

IMG_2383.jpg

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