Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Yea no ballast resistor on a 20v bud, you will only find a resistor pack on early 4ages with low Z injectors. Kill that alarm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 alarm is nearly out, actually considering killing it with fire/worst car job ever, worse than a clutch on my sw20 mr2/good work on the installers part though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 well the alarm is out but it make no difference. still exactly the same symptoms as before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 9, 2012 Share Posted February 9, 2012 Well you need to get your meter and figure it out dude, sounds like the ECU isnt doing much, theres no power at the factory starter circuit and the coil doesnt have 12v. Go back to the basics, check the correct pins on the ECU are getting +12V, check the injectors have +12V etc then work your way back to the problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 9, 2012 Author Share Posted February 9, 2012 yeap. in the intrest of keeping this thread usefull for possible future use by others. ill post this up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 started to troubleshoot the wireing and quickly found that the ecu didnt have any power. hooked it up to the battery and now i have a check engine light. my question is, will the check engine light stop starting, or is this just visual proof that something isnt right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
governorsam Posted February 11, 2012 Share Posted February 11, 2012 have sent you pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 i put the ecu into diagnostic mode and the check engine light just keeps flashing at about a rate of 2-3 per second. as far as i can tell this means everything is okay?? then why do i have engine light lit?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 11, 2012 Author Share Posted February 11, 2012 something new thats happening now that the ecu has power is that when i press in the air flow sensors flap i can hear what sounds like a fuel pump pumping along the fuel rail, just a buzzing sound Edit:i also found why it seems to not crank with the key, the wire out of the igniton barrel that supplies 12 when turned, does not have a corrosponding wire on the other side of the connector plug, and looks to have never had one....? unless someone pulled the copper bit out for some reason. but i should be able to re run this wire. but im having a bit of trouble find exactly where it should be run to. im assuming it will be some point on the starter relay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 IT FUCKING RUNS! thanks to all that helped. after a few nights of research and getting my head around how the engine is wired (ive never really dealt with car any wiring at all) i was able to develop a table of essential systems that the engine needed and what the wires looked like and how they should behave. This morning i quickly found that the 3 ECU power points were not getting 12v and neither was the ignitor and therefore the coil. so i quickly wires these points up to 12v and shes fires and ran smoothly first go, didnt idle, but this could be due to it sitting for a while or a sensor not working etc.. nothing i cant handle. im now off to properly wire up my repairs and plumb up the coolant system to i can get back on track with getting it driving!! Again thanks for everyones help and patience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted February 12, 2012 Share Posted February 12, 2012 Should really find out why it wasnt getting power dude, jumping 12v to it shouldnt be a permanabt fix. Some of the +12V feeds could be switched by the AFM flap, it is normal for it to switch the fuel pump (so it only goes while the engine is cranking). Idle issue could be due to no power to the Idle control valve/stepper motor check this out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Should really find out why it wasnt getting power dude, jumping 12v to it shouldnt be a permanabt fix. Some of the +12V feeds could be switched by the AFM flap, it is normal for it to switch the fuel pump (so it only goes while the engine is cranking).Idle issue could be due to no power to the Idle control valve/stepper motor check this out Oh yeah ill be properly sorting it out, jumping 12v is simply to test theorys. its also idling well now after about 5 mins of running. revs freely. so ill properly sort the wireing out and shell be away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 took it around the block and its very very slugish, revs very slowly and sounds quite rough. so yep like i say, mostly fixed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 well i need to shut up before i embarass myself, had 2&3 spark plug leads switched. now runs awesome and pulls damn hard. vvti is win also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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