1ggeu/1ggte swap...

[craig_b]

righto back to it, so had a chance to axe up the wiring. i labled the BATT,IG,+B1,+B,M-REL wires on the 1ggeu plug and labled the BATT,IG,+B1,+B,HS/V(NSW) wires on the 1ggte plug,

now the M-REL wire from the 1ggeu plug(afm fuel relay trigger wire?) dose that go to EPR or H-REL on the 1ggte plug? now are these quick splice connectors ok to use http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d266.html or better to cut and solder? i unpicked the labled wires from the 1ggeu plug but they wont fit into the 1ggte plug due to size difference

[cute wee gem]

Solder and heat shrink that shit. Even better is to de-pin the plug and re-pin into the other one, if it's long enough.

[craig_b]

cant de-pin as the pins in the turbo loom are smaller bummer, even ground down a srewdriver real flash-like to pick the pins out haha

[Spencer]

M-REL goes to M-REL dude, this relay is different to the fuel pump circuit opening relay which only runs the fuel pump while the engine is going. The M-REL gives the ECU control of when to kill power to the idle control valve, this means it can reset it to a reference position when you turn the key off (you can hear it reset when you turn the key off if you listen closely). If you dont do this it wil never idle properly.

Below are the diagrams for the 1GGZE, you can trace the M-REL pin and see the ISCV and a few others (oxy sensor etc) are switched +12v by this. The injectors are on a seperate EFI relay, you will want to trace out the old 1GE injectors and hook your 1GGTE ones up to this feed (it should be a big black wire with maybe a orange or red stripe, but toyota does change colours on you)

Ignore some of the hand drawn ones for now and just look at the 3 big circuit diagrams, should give you a feel for how things are connected up.

http://www.supra.co.nz/1g.htm

Oh and solder and heatshrink for sure, get some heatshrink with glue in it for extra lushness. Install plugs (you can get real nice waterproof ones, look around) anywhere that is needed to pull the engine out in one go with the loom. Nothing worse than a wiring job that requires cutting wires or removing the whole loom from the engine to get it out.

[craig_b]

sweet got some shrink wrap and soldering iron from work, will attack soon then by the looks of it just got to get the efi relay hooked up

[craig_b]

right so i have "tee'd" the following 1ggeu wires into the 1ggte loom;

BATT to BATT

IGN to IGN

+B1 to +B1

+B to +B

M-REL to M-REL

and have also tee'd the NSW wire onto IGN

now you stay to hook up STA to STA up, but the STA wire on the 1ggeu ecu plug has come out on the loom connected to the engine and same with the injector feeds, what should i do here? am i just hooking up 12v (cranking only?) for the STA pin?

[craig_b]

right so on the 1ggeu the odd injectors had a blue and black wire and the even injectors had a red and a black wire. the blue and red wires went to a moduel in the engine bay next to the coil pack/ignitor.

on the 1ggte the odd injectors have a white wire and black with orange dash wire and the even has black wire and black with orange dash, so i tee'd the blue wire from the 1ggeu loom to the white wire from the 1ggte loom (odd injector to odd injector) and the red wire from the 1ggeu loom to the black wire on the 1ggte loom ( even injector to even injector).

i havent checked with a test light to see if these are firing yet and havent hooked up the STA pin yet as im not sure what to do with that. is this all thats holding me back? i cant hear the fuel pump start up with key in the "ON" position

[craig_b]

put test light clamp on battery earth then turned key onto ON postion, put the probe of the test light onto the white injector plug pin and there was power there, did the same to the black wire on plug and power there, same with the even # injector plug, so now theres power to the injectors what switches them off to allow them to fire as they just work like a coil dont they?

[Spencer]

They are grounded by the injectror driver circuit inside the ECU pins are usually labeled #10, #20, #30 and will be fired in pairs.

STA just needs the cranking signal from the key.

[craig_b]

just #10 and #20 on this sucka, ill hook up the sta pin tomorrow, hopefully it will work?

[craig_b]

right, so BATT, IG, +B1, +B, M-REL, STA, NSW, are all hooked up, i have ignition but no flammible juice, cant hear the fuel pump working with key on but there is a plug by the old afm plug that is a fuel pump test wire, ive hooked that up to get the fuel pump to work and it still wont fire up, whats missing?

[Spencer]

Problem could be anything, but its not safe to assume that just because the fuel pump works when jumpered that its going to be working when cranking. You should be able to push the AFM flap in with the key on and the pump should fire up. I would say you havnt done any wiring to get the circuit opening relay going. You will need to probably grab the wire for this from the old AFM wiring and splice it into the 1GGTE loom

[craig_b]

so with the 1ggte afm pluged in and key on i push the flap open and pump dose not come on, with the 1ggeu afm conneced to the 1ggeu loom plug i can push the flap and the pump will start up, so i need to figure out what wire this is on the 1ggte afm plug and same with the 1ggeu afm plug and splice them together. cam i hook up both afm's to see if it will fire up? hooking up the 1ggeu to get the fuel pump running and the 1ggte afm to give the necessary signals to the computer so it will fire up?

[Spencer]

You are better just to jumper the fuel pump as you did before. Now with later stuff the AFM switch that turns on the fuel pump would come into the cabin with the rest of the loom and you would simply splice it up and roll. If your loom is seperate and heads in the body its just a matter of tracing it out. And should be easy to work out whats what wire it is on the AFM with a multimeter.

[craig_b]

right i am back from aussie now, need to get this going, tried jumping the fuel pump, still wouldnt fire up, unsure what the problem is here, will this be something stupid? am thinking i might have to try find a auto sparky to come get this sorted for me as starting a new job tomorrow and am going to have little to no spare time now which sucks

[shakotanboogieman]

hey man choice project, would you sell the 1gge?

[craig_b]

i will once the 1ggte is running

[Spencer]

Wish I could help man, but would really need to see the car. Basically you just need to do some basic fault finding and get back to us here, fuel pump is actually pumping fuel? injectors firing? actually has spark etc

[craig_b]

right so have spark,have fuel when fuel pump hard wired, i think i know why it isnt going, theres 2 wires that come out of the ecu, pin 11(even injectors) and pin 12(odd injectors), these each split into 3 wires, 3 for odd and 3 for even injectors, on the other side of the injectors both even and odd turn into 1 wire and end up at a plug under the dash, how do i find out where this one is ment to go? http://www.supra.co.nz/1g/1ggte_gen_3_1_0001.jpg this says it goes to the ignition switch, so if i was to put 12v to this wire it should fire up?

[thegreatestben]

IF you wanna know if your injectors are working just put the tip of a screwdriver against the body of an injector and put your ear to the end of the handle. Should be firing/clicking away like mad.

Oh and looking that the diagram the injectors are all supplied 12v from the IG2 and then are switched on the earth via ecu on those two ecu pins for even and odd.