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motorbike carb starting troubles


7ESKY9

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those jets tune the idle air/fuel mixture/emulsification/etc just roll blocked off its pretty common

also your carbs would like to be fed 2-3psi fuel pressure, if it sits and idles then starts smogging up and cutting out its too high

ok it runs good at idle and revs 2 about 3500 to 4000 rpm then starts coughing and spitting.

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all level

do the left pair then the right then balance the 2 sides (there is an adjusting screw on each linkage)

also check the float heights (info found online etc)

it could be leaning out from its transition to main jet so try lifting the needle up a clip (lower the circlip) see if it improves

ok sweet as already checked all float levels ill hopefuly take for test drive on thursday night and start tuning from there.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 5 months later...

has anyone with a pinto with bike carbs noticed a power gain from these on a stock motor?

i plan to do some work on my motor at some stage and bike carbs are starting to look lush....

from what ive read on uk sites, a 36mm set up at minimum...

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ive just been offered some cheap 36mm flat side cv carbs so ill probably grab them..pretty sure theyr mikunis...

will do until i get some porting,cam etc done...then ill look at getting some fj1200 carbs cos theyr friggin huge..

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a healthy pinto with R1s full zorst system and a little more timing advance should be making 150hp or there abouts

36mm is a pretty good starting block and you probably wont feel a huge power gain if you upgraded to R1s but you would get a bigger kick in the balls/more aggressive power delivery than the 36's which would be much nicer to daily

PS you can pick up a set of 36 miks for between $50 and $80 if you keep an eye out

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