CJ eskie coupe Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 i have just replaced the fuel pump in my sierra cosworth as after giving it a good run on boost and just cruising along again it would cough and splutter then occasionally die out, so i drove it for a couple of days fine off boost and it was all good until it cut out on me at idle, so i stopped driving it while i waited for a fuel pump to arrive, i had access to a fuel pressure gauge but never got to use it as there is no where to connect it on the high pressure side, but after i put the new fuel pump in which is a performance pump, and i removed a real bad crimp in the return line with a temporary fix of fuel hose and efi clamps i drove the car around the block making sure to give it a bit of pedal to the metal and all seemed good then o was cruising in 4th and put my foot down and it felt as if there wasn't enough fuel getting in, it lost power and surged a little, i dropped to 3rd and it still did it and then when i got to second it seemed to have corrected itself and was fine but it did it again a 2nd time shortly after, same scenario, cruising in 4th then once i got back to the workshop i left it idling and started to check over for any leaks, or loose connections then it just cut out, so i started it again and keep checking for possibilities then it cut out again i went to start it and the battery was flat, so i load tested the battery and its faulty so i have to find a new one, and i know the alternators charging because i had it fully rebuilt not so long ago anyone have any ideas or had any similar problem? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 what do your plugs look like? its not gettin too much fuel with uprated pump n flooding? might have to check ya fuel pressures at idle if ya can get that gauge back. also disconnect ya battery to reset ya ecu n learn again, long shot i know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ eskie coupe Posted July 22, 2011 Author Share Posted July 22, 2011 plugs are new/ near new were put in by the previous owner before i brought the car i have re gapped them to 0.9 while i had a misfire issue that i found to be a combination of plugs gapped to big, faulty leads and timing out 1 tooth on the dizzy pulley. i doubt its gettin to much fuel as it starts easy after it cuts out each time until the batter died but with a jumper batter on its ok starting, we have the fuel gauge at work but there is no where on the high pressure side to fir it to as every thing is hard alloy fuel line that is then crimped to plastic line there is no connectors as of yet but i am going to re run fuel line as there are a few crimps im not happy with the worst has been removes as i mentioned earlier. the ecu was rset while i was fitting the fuel pump as i had it disconnected for 30 min to near an hour. i have a new battery at work i acquired before i left so i will get new terminals and fit this new battery im hoping its just that the battery wasn't accepting charge and the car lost fuel pressure/spark because it couldn't get enough supply from the battery but knowing my luck with this car so far it will be something else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 check the wiring from the engine to the chassis, even if it looks ok try another wire and see what happens. I had a problem where my engine would cut out at anything above medium rpm but only because the engine was was so bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted July 22, 2011 Share Posted July 22, 2011 check its charging with a volt meter, never assume it is just because its rebuilt. 0.9mm gap is on the high side for a cosworth i think Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ eskie coupe Posted July 23, 2011 Author Share Posted July 23, 2011 i had checked charging it was all good, and the spark gaps are between 1.0 - 0.92mm i had set them to .9 about a month ago i had a look after work and one of my workmates managed to get in contact with someone he knows that had a similar problem with his cosworth, and his advise was check the coolant temp sensor on the side of the head that is hidden below a coolant pipe, so i removed it and heated it up and checked resistance against specs i found online, the sensor is a NTC sensor and behaved according to spec until it got to about 90 degrees which should be about 0.28k ohms but instead it was fluctuating around 128.235 ohms, way off where it should be so i will find a new sensor and go from there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ eskie coupe Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 after much searching i found a coolant temp sensor its was a real pain because it wasn't listed in parts for the cosworth it was somewhere else and went off the picture guide, and it turned out the parts department at work had one similar so i tested it and it was very close to what i needed so i brought that and put it in, bled the cooling system up and went for a drive and so far so good, Ive put the battery on charge for the night and will load test it 2moro and will replace if needs be and then give it a good drive 2 and from work and a few detours to make sure its running all tikety boo =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProZac Posted July 27, 2011 Share Posted July 27, 2011 so i load tested the battery and its faulty so i have to find a new one A faulty battery can cause all your described symptoms by itself... This would be the first thing I'd change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ eskie coupe Posted July 27, 2011 Author Share Posted July 27, 2011 yeah we went ova that after charging the battery and testing it again its ok but ave a feeling the alarm is drawing a little excess current, no cells are boiling when the battery is charging either, im looking for a good battery around work with a better cca because after spending so much so far i know i can get a couple things on the cheep ;p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
browndog Posted August 5, 2011 Share Posted August 5, 2011 check the fuel pump fuse in the fusebox by the windscreen wiper motor. The fuseholder can overheat and melt, giving the problem you describe. Very common on these cars Also, make sure the coolant temp. sensor you fitted is a weber one,(I think there was also a blue VDO one which is okay to use) but don't use a Bosch 026 sensor! The Bosch sensor is close, and works okayish, but the reading at about 20° is different and can make the car harder to start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ eskie coupe Posted August 10, 2011 Author Share Posted August 10, 2011 yeah i put a generic cts sensor in so i could eliminate that it is the cts and it was so i left that in as it made it drivable (was a little unpleasant when cold but not hard starting) until i managed to get a correctly spec cts through Milford Auto Electrical, and has been running great ever since i also have just put a 3 inch exhaust on from the turbo it had a couple resonators and a muffler nothing to loud but gives the free flow it needs to and this has also helped alot as the old exhaust was rooted, the fuse box was fine as i have checked there for other issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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