Popular Post felixx Posted March 3, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 3, 2020 And I still have this car. Just lacked $ and motivation. I still have no $ but I do have some motivation. Going to start it up in the weekend WOF Check.. perhaps 21 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post felixx Posted March 16, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 16, 2020 she runs.. next step is a wof! 18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 Yay no wof needed in covidistan... ... you can reg,no wof 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post felixx Posted August 31, 2020 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 31, 2020 so now my list of keeping wifey happy jobs is nearly done, It is time to get this thing on blocks and actually rebuild the brakes Summer is coming and there is no RUC on an Anglia (500km a week in the deez is getting a bit old) 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post felixx Posted March 21, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 21, 2021 Sold to Mr Anton ... I will change thread title but couldnt ask for a more understanding buyer. I have never had wet eyes watching a car leave my house 14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 21, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 21, 2021 First thing I did when I got home was pulled the speedo cable out and cleaned it. Now the speedo doesn't jump around any more. Second thing I did was drop one of the screws holding that mirror onto the door into the door frame, never to be seen again. Third thing I did was lose the keys and then successfully use the Starlet's key on it. (I found the keys again, but left them at home after) Then I went to the fuel station and found the Starlet key doesn't work in the fuel cap. So I'll fill it up tomorrow. 21 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 23, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2021 The doors on this thing sit at least half an inch away from the body when closed. The culprit is worn latch blocks on the pillar. Following some Barry info from the internet, I pulled off one of these blocks and used some 'steel' knead-it type epoxy to build up the worn areas. The epoxy stuff doesn't seem to be quite as hard as I would like so I might have to do something else in the future. Or it will cure more over night. I wonder if I might be able to space the star wheel further from the door so it runs on the unworn parts of the latch block. Upon putting the latch block back onto the car in what looked to be the factory position, the door instantly closed reasonably well. A little adjustment and it might just do the trick. I'll do the driver's side next. Also, the WoF shop that gave this thing a warrant last weekend deserves a pretty thorough investigation. The brake imbalance is/was atrocious. It would pull hard to the right with a decent application of braking. I pulled the left hub off to inspect the brake and all looked good so I gave it a good cleaning and scuffed the shoes. I then regreased the bearings and reassembled it. I didn't have a quarter inch spanner so I couldn't adjust the brakes. After a few hard stops it seems to now stop in a straight line. I made a tool with a quarter inch square hole this evening so I will be able to adjust the brakes tomorrow evening. Hopefully I can get them in ship shape. I'll also grease the drivers side bearing and clean that brake too while I'm at it. 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 23, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2021 Here's the passenger door after doing the block. I haven't put any effort in to adjusting it. Previously the gap was about 3 times the size and the door would just flop around. 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 25, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 25, 2021 Gave this thing a good tune-up today. But before I go into the details, I would like to publicly shame the place that gave this car a WoF last week before I bought it. Nothing against Felixx, it's the WoF shop's job to ensure something is safe. Harewood Vehicle Inspection Centre - 580 Wairakei Road. They should not have given this vehicle a WoF, there were two serious safety problems that they missed. The first was the serious brake imbalance - the car would pull hard to the right under heavy braking. The second was the substantial fuel leak from the carburetor (straight onto the exhaust manifold). After my engine fire, I have no tolerance of any kind for fuel leaks. I've fixed these now, but I am seriously considering reporting the testing shop to NZTA. There were also a few other items that are dubious, but they aren't safety concerns so I'm not really worried about them. Anyway, back to the scheduled programming. This evening's plan involved adjusting the valve clearances and changing the diff oil. In preparation I decided to get a new valve cover gasket, so I figured Butler Automart would probably be the place to go for old stuff like this. The guy behind the counter knew the part number off the top of his head and sold me a gasket for $13. I was pretty happy with that. I adjusted the valves to the following specifications on a reasonably warm/hot engine: IN: 0.009" EX: 0.017" A few of the exhaust valves were slightly tight and one was really loose. That would explain the flutter I could hear while driving. Most of the intake valves were fine, a few needed a little adjustment. I also hammered the valve cover bolt hole areas flat to try and minimize any warpage. I didn't use any sealant on the gasket, I'll see how it goes. I also gave the cover a quick lick of paint. While I was adjusting the valves I thought I should probably look into the rather petrolly smell that follows this thing around. I saw the side of the carburettor was completely soaked in fuel. The fuel hose was so loose it was practically flapping in the breeze. I tightened it up, but it still leaked. So I replaced the section of hose. It still leaked. I tightened it more. It still leaked. At this point I got a little concerned that the carburettor might have a crack or something, but just to be sure I pulled the top off and checked the gasket - it was fine. I then put some soapy water around the inlet pipe and closed the float valve then blew into the inlet. Bubbles were coming out around it - I had found the culprit. Some pliers easily removed the pipe. Not wanting the screw around too much and being on a rather tight schedule (Jane needs the car to drive to band tonight), I decided my most reliable solution would be a complete redesign. I drilled the hole out for an M8 thread and used a taper tap to thread it. I then jumped on the lathe and made a new fitting out of silversteel then applied a little loctite and threaded it into the carburettor top as tight as I could. Note the new fitting has a barb, this should hopefully help hold the fuel hose in place. My 4K carb was giving this thing the death stare the whole time. It looks like it would probably fit on reasonably easily, but the Anglia doesn't use a throttle cable - it has one of @yoeddynz's favourite types of linkage systems. Anyway, I put it all back together and checked for leaks. It seems to be fixed now. After that photo I hit the carb with a little brake cleaner to tidy it up. Hopefully the thread doesn't start to leak. I probably should have peened it in place after threading it in. While I was in the engine bay I decided I would try and get the vacuum gauge connected again. this involved replacing a couple of sections of vacuum hose and fitting the T connector between the distributor and the carburettor. The distributor rotated about 40 degrees while I was pulling the old hose off - it obviously wasn't clamped down. So I reset it back approximately where it was then used the timing light to check the approximate timing and set it to about 10 deg BTDC at idle. It doesn't seem to ping and runs a lot better at the current setting than it did before. I also tightened the clamp. Now onto the diff oil change. It turns out that the British motor industry was way ahead of it's time - using filled for life diffs. There is no drain plug, yet they expect the owners to top the fluid up every 5,000 miles. These things must leak a lot... Also, the fill plug is a male 1/2" square. I ended up just using a syringe to suck as much fluid out of the fill hole as I could. At one point the hose fell off of the syringe, inside the diff. I had to use circlip pliers to fish it out. After that I filled it up with some Penrite GL5 gear oil until it started to flow out of the fill hole. Should be good for another 5,000 miles I guess. The result of all of the above work is an engine that runs smoothly now, doesn't smell like petrol, doesn't tick like a clock, and a working economy gauge. I'm pretty satisfied with the outcome. Next jobs: -driver's door latch -clean all that red RTV off of the random shit in the engine bay -maybe replace the muffler that has heaps of rust holes -clean the inch thick layers of grease off the bottom so I can figure out how bad the transmission and diff leaks actually are -fix the heater system -bodywork? -computerised ignition? -better lights behind the speedo 21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 25, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 25, 2021 The car was running super lean this morning and I needed to use the choke the whole way to work. So I did the good old carpark in the dark 8 minute carburetor rebuild. There was a piece of glove in the jet. It seems to be fixed now. 11 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted March 28, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted March 28, 2021 I had to pull the carb apart again when I got home, there were more little bits of glove past the jet. After cleaning the carb out thoroughly it runs a treat again. I filled the bowls with 91, and went for a quick hoon. I didn't detect any pinging - perhaps I can run it with 91 at the current ignition timing settings. I also spent the day fixing the heater core for it. The old one was disconnected, Glen reckoned the tap was leaking. I pulled it all out and found not only was the tap leaking, but the whole core was covered in corrosion from its own leaks. One of the tanks was leaking where it joins to the core and there were a few leaks in the core itself. I used a torch to melt the solder and remove the tank, I was greeted by an entirely blocked core - full of the foulest rust sludge you could imagine. I cleaned all of the tubes out using a brazing rod and a garden hose running at full power feeding the other tank. Afterwards I gave it all a good clean then reapplied solder to the tank and core mounting faces. I don't have any big clamps, so I just used some stainless lock wire to hold it all together while slowly moving around the tank to solder it together. This was followed by about 10 rounds of pressure testing and chasing the leaks around in the core itself. The tubes are all soldered together and in places the solder had cracked or corroded. Simply applying heat and solder to all of the tube seams was enough to fix them eventually. I had a random heater tap laying around, it does the job. I just unsoldered the old one and used a bit of hose to join the new one on. I also lubricated the fan shaft. The heater control cable is a bit short for the new heater so I will have to make one some time. Currently you have to reach under the dash to close the tap manually. Also, I'm not sure what the proper plumbing setup should be for these heaters. I just replaced the single hose between the intake manifold and the head with the heater circuit. Will this cause any issues with overheating if I close the tap? I still need to find a new duct for the drivers side defog vent, the existing one is too short. But other than that, the car gets uncomfortably warm inside if the heater fan is on now. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 Just gone back over the last 4 pages of this thread. This thing has had heater problems since forever ago. Hopefully this time they are fixed once and for all. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted April 1, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted April 1, 2021 Factory wheels, new tyres and alignment today 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted April 1, 2021 Share Posted April 1, 2021 Managed to pull the leaky back shock absorber apart this evening. The only way it is going back together is with the use of the lathe. I have until about 9:30 tomorrow morning to have figured out a way to make it seal, rebuild it and get the car back on the road for the long trip. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted May 1, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 1, 2021 They say the two happiest days of Birtish car ownership are the day you get the car and the day it leaves your life. Well the other day it left my life (at least for now). My dad is taking it on a long road trip. He is taking it to Auckland, via the bottom of the South Island. They're staying at Lake Hawea tonight. I think their trip will be complete by around about the 15th. Hitting the road: Somewhere in Mt Somers I believe: Lindis pass (actually surprised it still ran up there): He insisted on taking the roof rack with it. I bet it uses 25% more fuel now. When it gets up to Auckland my brother will paint it and we will try to track down the few remaining bits that it needs to be complete and then will stick it on the market. I'll keep this updated as the photos from the trip come through. Feel free to add any spotted photos if you see him on the road. 20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted May 2, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 2, 2021 They made it to Te Anau yesterday. No problems yet. Apparently people like it but are still calling them foolish for even trying 19 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted May 10, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 10, 2021 They've begun their trip north now. I think they are in Hokitika tonight. My dad said it hasn't lost a drop of engine oil so far. I call BS. He reckons someone wanted to buy it from him in Wanaka but died when he stated his asking price 19 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted May 14, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 14, 2021 They made it back to Auckland. They did 2000 miles and only had to put petrol in it. They didn't even have any tools with them. He once put a little oil in and then realized the car was sitting on a slope, so it now has a little too much in it. I believe there are a lot more pictures to come. 27 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted May 22, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted May 22, 2021 Been hooning around in this for the weekend while visiting my dad for his 70th Still goes hard for what it is 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post ajg193 Posted December 24, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted December 24, 2021 My dad put a wof on this yesterday, just a few small fails like rear seatbelt and number plate light. Still goes for what it is No big puddles under the heater yet either 17 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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