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Coils are dumb


HUNTD

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Any other way to test other than chucking the lead on car and turning over? I get nothing doing that so im guessing it is the coil. granted that i just replaced it with an even older one off my parts car. Excuse baby brain prolly missing something simple as but yea cant think.

Non ballast btw, new battery and hasnt run for a decent time for about a year. i just started it up and turned off.

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Nick just had exactly same problem and it was his condenser in the dizzy (which looked like it was brand new, engine had been rebuilt but had sat for 1 year)

Not saying this is def your prob but it could be. Do you have absolutly no spark at dizzy?

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i will get jarred to help me check cos i was trying to hold lead and turn key = hard. but couldnt see any spark when i tried.

wouldnt suprised if it was dizzy bits, they seem to fuck out yearly, but usually just gives me shit idle.

im only guessing its the dizzy cos its doing the same thing last time i fried one (but that was using ballast coil cos i was noob)

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All hillman's i've had always end up with ign problems. the later type with a 45d4 lucas seem to have crap condensors.

Best foult finding ive found is to plug a sparkplug lead straight in the coil with a spark plug on the end of it. Lie the spark plug on the head so it's earthed. remove the points wire off the side of the dizzy. Turn the ignition on and start tapping the points wire on the earthed strut bolt or other clean earthed part. Every time you relese the points wire it should spark at the sparkplug.

If no spark check there is 12v at the coil

If there is 12v and no spark, check the point's wire is'nt broken (both my hunters have had this foult from motor vibration braking the wire)

If not suspect a foulty coil.

If it does spark then suspect a fould in the dizzy.

As people have said above for dizzy foults.

#Static timing very far out.

#Consensor shorting out

#Dirty points

#Dirty rotor tracking to the shaft it's pushed onto (not a easy one to work out)

#Broken sping contact in the middle of dizzy cap.

#Shorn dog pin at the base of the dizzy and the oil pump drive is no longer driving the dizzy shaft.(common on 1725's with high milage)

#Can even be a siezed oil pump from rust, brakes the shaft when the motor is first started. Even seen the casting broken in the motor block moving the oil pump drive away from the cam shaft drive. This can even be done with over revving the motor. Normaly a conrod jumps out of bed before this happens on a standard motor thow.

Another good way of testing the dizzy is to leave the spark plug set up from the first test. Plug the points wire onto the dizzy. remove the cap. turn the ignition on and start closing the points manualy with a screwdriver seeing if the sparkplug sparks.

see what you can work out. It's good pratice working these things out as it will probley crap out one day in a supermarket carpark or something and you have no tools. A lot can be worked out with no tools at all.

I've cut a consensor out of the circuit before to just get me home and replaced the points and condesor when home. Saves walking.

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