Tortrons series mm minor of slow

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failed on


doors dont close propperly because of new seals. I need to adjust the frame to suit. for now il just pull the offending one out


rear indicator - connection had been dislodged last I was under the dash


right dipped beam too high - will adjust



right front steering tie rod end worn outer


there might be a gnats pube of play in the end, its hard to say, mainly because the shock shaft has somehow gotten major play in it since the last wof, and I'm not even going to try anything till that's sorted.


A shame because I would like to move this to Auckland next week, but it aint happening now

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Brought all my tools back on the weekend, so I pulled the rack out to see what's up.

It's better than a new one, it's even a later model one with thicker ends. No play in the inners or outers and rack/pinion is adjusted perfectly.

Re lubricated it while it was on the bench for luck

Any play is coming from the shock shaft/wof man needed some rod end fails on his books

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Pulled the shocks today. Have been putting off replacing them for years. One i assume is original with a date stamp of 8/51 so it's kind of a shame to swap it for a recon one, if the car wasnt stuffed when I got it, it might have been nice to keep it matching numbers (rear shocks are recon and not og engine)

Upon pulling the shocks I was reminded that the top pin is stuck in both the arms and I didn't bother separating them last time, just removed the whole lot as one unit

Can't really get a puller on them and a 3lb sledge wasn't moving them. So I squirted on some bike chain lube , it's super sticky and penetrates well, then fired up the camp stove, and the popped right apart

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measuring the shocks on the bench, height to the bottom of the top pin hole


original 6.3cm

one of the replacements 6.5cm

the other - 7cm


the arm on that one is clearly a different casting and will hit the edge of the window in the inner wing


ol mate cob reckoned just press it off

pretty sure that takes about 30 tons, so im sending it back to swap with one i can use




Plus side

I replaced the drivers side, and there is now no unwanted movement. plus the oil stays in this one

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So have the rack back in and new shock on the right. The new left shock is off somewhere getting delt to with a big press to put the proper arm on, which sucks as apparently the guy only keeps 1 in stock.

Anyway today I think I found a bit of play in the steering.

Not in the rack or linkages.... In-between the wheel and the column...........

These early minors have the steering wheel held on with the standard huge nut, but unlike the later models it uses a tapered shaft and a woodruff key. Guess what was missing

They used a little smear of no more nails or something at least - which had lasted all my ownership

Good grief.

Gotta track down a new key

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swapped in the other replacement shock that only took a full month to sort out


thought, oh hey il pull that single carb manifold off and fire up my twin carbs for some feel good action


removed it all, thought i would set the tappets while im in there, i dont have 3 1/4W tappet spanners so thats out


twin manifold doesnt fit

grinded down the thermostat bulge as much as i dare and molested the manifold with a ball hammer which took alot of refitting and checking

its just fitting now, but il go back over it and try get 1mm or so of clearance to allow for paint




it wont start...


doesnt seem to be sucking any fuel into the cylinders. maybe its becaue im only using 2 bolts to hold it on and theres a massive leak, the long standard ones are too long to work with this, have ordered some short ones. battery is flat now anyway.


looks good tho eh

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spent most of the day fiddling with 3 whitworth tappet spanners, a work light, and a feeler gauge trying to contort myself over the engine so i could see what i was doing while setting the valve clearances


they had all tightened up a little, probably has not been done for 20 years because its a hell of a job



put it all back together, twin carbs back on and put a few bits together to sort out the new throttle linkage and return springs, and put the air filters on. will need a few old gaskets swapped out with new ones for a propper tune once everything is put together and theres an exhaust.


warmed it up and did a couple of launch tests down the driveway, its not much distance but it feels noticeably more powerful, i think i could get a wheel going for the first time ever

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Did I mention the starter Bendix wasn't returning. Stripped it down, cleaned it up, and ran a builders pencil over the threads. Works ok now.


More barrying  of a carb choke actuator bolt into a throttle cable bolt. Just needed to spin it down in the lathe eh




Looks the part

Also popped the air filters on. These did come with wire mesh media in them. I replaced these with some doughnuts cut from a kwasaki ninja foam filter.



Starts up with a little choke from cold, and starts easy warm. Revs up nicely. I think it's going to be a good one.


Cut the exhaust up again to correct some alignment issues at the vband flange. Goes together much nicer now and sounds alot smoother (waste of time tuning with exhaust leaks)


Then something went wrong.

Smoke started coming out of the generator, ign lamp would go off when running but come on with the key removed.

Looks like the points in the voltage regulator/control box (yup more Lucas points) stuck

I ran some paper between them and it's ok again. I had to do that last time it had sat for a while too. An entire new loom in in my future, maybe I'll get a dynameter fake generator instead and do away with the control box all together. 



Next on the list is the brakes

One wheel was stuck. Just some rust on the shoes, I cleaned it up and will vacuum bleed the system later


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1949 lowlight inner guard panels

Have had them in my pile for about 6 years, the grill for 10.



Need them to clear the headlights. The lowlight grill won't fit even without headlights because the headlight swage area hits the inner guard.

Rust out on top, wheel flicks muck up there I guess. Hilights have the same problems rusting out the headlight bucket. The headlight heat should dry it out anyway so it's a sound design..



Both were rusted, one just looks better than the other. Enough to copy it anyway.



I would quite like a shrinker stretcher set. Maybe next rusty project. Hammer and dolly and some extra time gets it done I guess.

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