tortron

Tortrons series mm minor of slow

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Have done a ton of work, but its all piddly stuff thats hardly worth mentioning

 

have put in new burgundy winglace, looks good with the satin black, and ties in the red seats. will probably run a body pinstripe of the same colour

Re did a patch in the rear wheel well, then tapped it for wing bolt

Ran the wires and set up the electric fan

went through the exhaust and touched up a few dodgy spots in the welds.

 

should probably go take it in for a wof next week, but im slack 

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Reply No.101

A worthy one at that.

Just did several laps of our street

First time its "been on the road" (not on a transporter) for probably 5 years.

Currently on the std. Carb and exhaust manifold as i will need to use longer studs. Dont want to risk snapping them off in the block at this time. May get a 105e aquaplane manifold to use with my twins in the meantime.

Gets the revs up very well, which i assume is the lighter flywheel in action. Need to give it a fine road tune as i wasnt getting much power over 50kph. Should reach 90-100 assume the timing is not quite right, wasnt getting much change from my vac gauge.

Have a spare cylinder head im going to get milled down. Std. Compression is about 6.1 (they had high and low comp heads and pistons. MM's had the higher comp pistons, tho the difference in heads can vary wildly as manufacture tolerances may mean a low com head is the same as a high. Haha)

Hoping to get it closer to 8.1 (7.5 :1 should be good as it gives me a bit of space to play with when i get a reprofiled cam).

Really the shaved head is the 1st thing you should do on a banger like this, but dont over do it as they have poor flow to begin with.

Also did a bunch of hard braking, began to grab very well pretty quickly. Just got to build up those leg muscles!

Short term goals:

Get it ticking over nicely

Wof and do as much driving as i can. Missed summer cruising, ohwell.

Mid term goals:

High comp head

get twins on

get exhaust on

long term goals:

Over size inlet valves

valve seals redone

inspect pistons/bore and rering etc if needed - probably, she breathes pretty well

(can oversize the pistons to get to almost 1100cc too)

Further porting

Further combustion chamber mods i.e. Tuning ford sidevalves book

Get centres put into wider bands (got to put all those extra horses to the ground, running a common size and not having the tyres fall off the bead around corners too)

further in the future:

Touch up the paintwork again, its been treated poorly in storage

Supercharge

redo door cards

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Installed chrome windscreen trim

replaced diff pinion seal

snapped the friggin cotter bolt which clamps the distributor in place.  will have to hunt one down or make one

wanted to go for a wof tomorrow too

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Spent the day making the new bolt, decoking the engine and installing my high comp head.

 

Doesnt seal, blowing out the drivers side between 2-3.  will whip it back off and anneal the headgasket (go go gadget camp stove)

If that doesnt work im going to assume the block isnt flat.

CBF taking the engine back out to do this atm, so will be back on with the std head if it is

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New head gasket and im away.

Just went for a hoon around the block. Not a hugely noticable increase, circa 10% is probably close.

Means i can go from stopped to slow slighty faster. Drop the clutch and instead of bogging out it gets up and goes. Havnt tested top speed, and infact my tyres are flat so things should improve.

The noise this puts out is fantastic

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First WOF test since 2009....

 

 

No brake pedal rubber (its sitting on the back seat actually)

 

Windscreen wiper arms arnt great - may contest that, they are as bad as standard

 

rear passenger door doesnt latch closed correctly

 

no rear reflectors - brake lights dont have them inside, just the tiny one on the rear badge.  hasnt been brought up before, have stuck some ugly ones on the numberplate surround anyway.

 

Both rear tyres stuffed (one has a bulge and the other is just under the limit)  I have 3 spares but probably they are all stuffed too.  Infact i thought the fronts were worse than the rears, my 30 year old crossplys live again.

 

rear brake imbalance (100/30) gay. gay. gay.  gay

will pull it off again and see what the deal is.  Park brake is real good tho

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First WOF test since 2009....

 

 

No brake pedal rubber (its sitting on the back seat actually)

 

Windscreen wiper arms arnt great - may contest that, they are as bad as standard

 

rear passenger door doesnt latch closed correctly

 

no rear reflectors - brake lights dont have them inside, just the tiny one on the rear badge.  hasnt been brought up before, have stuck some ugly ones on the numberplate surround anyway.

 

Both rear tyres stuffed (one has a bulge and the other is just under the limit)  I have 3 spares but probably they are all stuffed too.  Infact i thought the fronts were worse than the rears, my 30 year old crossplys live again.

 

rear brake imbalance (100/30) gay. gay. gay.  gay

will pull it off again and see what the deal is.  Park brake is real good tho

 

Brakes were actually 100/60 - 33% difference

 

-Pedal rubber replaced

-Windscreen wiper had been bodged at the wiper hinge.  I bodged it better. Tested with a spray bottle - leaves a perfect clean sweep every time

-Adjusted the door catch.  New door rubbers on this, so will have to keep adjusting it till it beds in

-Stuck on 2 reflectors each side of the number plate. ruins my sweet rear lines but will work till i change it

-Rear imbalance - Looks like the pads have bedded in a little and i could get 1 more click on the right rear adjuster.  This should sort it

-Tyres. I measured both and they dont seem to have less than 1.5mm tread depth at any point, The bulge im not too sure about either, i dont see one popping out.

Will go get a second opinion on those.

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Went for a long drive (high comp head, lightened flywheel. But no extractors or carbs) and she went very well. 150miles and up a couple of steep hills - the kaimais.
Handles very well, as it should with all the steering and suspension rebuilt. Not even a hair of slack or wobble in the steering wheel at open road speeds. Can get up the kaimais in 3rd if theres nothing in the way to slow you down.  Doesnt quite have the oomph to overtake the slower trucks.

Will cruise nicely at 4000RPM in 4th (going from t he manual 4400 is peak power, shifting at about 5000 seems about right to keep the power up). Cant quite squeeze the extra 500RPM out in 4th at this stage.
With these shorter tyres this gives me a top speed of about 57mph at 4000rpm (assuming i could achieve the same rpm with original sized tyres i would be at about 62mph at this point, so an extra mph or 2 on the top speed).

Current performance
1st 18mph larger tyres:19.5
2nd 31mph larger 33mph
3rd 46mph larger 54.56
4th at 4000rpm 57mph larger 62 Theoretical top speed:4000rpm 67mph, 4500rpm 75mph, 5000rpm 83mph (with original aspect tyres) - Speedo only goes up to 80 too, not that id want to do that sort of speed in this. 100kph crusing is more than enough

I should really time how fast it takes as well, the lightened flywheel and shaved head seem to have increased low down power and acceleration, i do notice a 3rd gear flatspot, so adjusting the driving style is needed (as mentioned in the old tuning articles). No doubt with the carbs and extractors i will be seeing some improvements, which can only get better after the engine is freshened up.

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ran this down the road to the new house. All of the smoke came out, so I should probably change the oil, its full of moreys that leaked past the cylinders and probably water from sitting.

Got a wheel going for my granddad and locked the brakes up after a speed run.

 

So

replace fuel bowl gasket cos its pissing out

torque head bolts, looked like a bit of weeping

more brake work. They lock and stop but the pedal feels horrible and the new house is at the bottom of a hill

pretty sure I saw a crack in the exhaust, so il do something with that I guess

change the drive dog on the new distributor 180 so the leads reach and I can tune it properly

new fluids

get a suspect east coast wof

cruise the heads

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Fail wof on

Front tyres (Dunlop air ride crossplys or some such) too deteriorated

One wiper is loose and not moving

Bonnet hinge loose

Seat bolt loose

Bloke couldn't adjust the seat so il explain it

Brakes are no good

Fuel leak at the pump

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Passed the wof

It started getting a miss once it warmed up on the way home

which continued to get worse

i assume its the ancient coil given up. I turned it off and now it realllly runs like crap.

back on the tow truck and back to hamilton

a much more comfortable way to travel

 

 

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an old one to start off with

 

 

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Pretty much i have just parked this thing up and let weeds grow through it

 

I did however buy these about 6 months ago and chuck them at the back of the shed

 

I pulled them out today and had a look (i didnt even open the box after buying them haha). They appear to be well made, totally brazed together too, i imagine this was put together by a tuning house.

They were full of polystyrene and old dust so iv stripped the carbs down and will clean them out, some one has had #1 carb off, someone who doesnt know how to put an SU back together because there is a big washer under the jet spring which shouldnt be there, and the piston only returns halfway.

one of the bowl float jigglers has been replaced with a screw (probably lost)

other than that they are pretty good, i dont think they have been on a car for 30 years

somethings not right with the choke situation, probably a part is missing or its a mix from two different set ups. I will probably just run off one choke for now/for ever, until i can be bothered getting the "correct" levers

 

#dort

#goes hard

 

s3QAv9g.jpg

 

 

fgglD0r.jpg

 

 

(why not the other set I made? wel they are in storage far away from me, and these are 1 1/8" carbs which will be more suited to the engine for now)

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Haven't been driving this because there's no gas in it.

There's no gas in it because I wanted to repair the fuel sender.

The tin float had split along the length. Was too much for a brass float from anywhere I asked, so I got the cheapest sender unit I could find.

$5 for a sender and float from a scooter. Pulled off the float and slid it on my sender unit, and after jiggling every electrical connections in the car to get it to ground it's working again

Nice

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Fanbelt from ESM was too long, (its a B36) so i thought i would change it. I got a B35 belt from a local bearing and seal place, because B section belts are only used on old pumps now days.

 

Problem 1

cant get the old belt off. there is approx 1mm of clearance between the pump shaft and the radiator. Infact i can see its touched it a few times.Ok, so its a radiator out job (not much info around for the old sidevalves, and even less for those with waterpumps, but i did find someone with the same problems of incorrect belt and radiator having to come out)

Problem 2

Cant just slide the radiator out because i have attached an electric fan to the front.

 

Remove bumper, grill, radiator shroud etc. Dump coolent everywhere because the drain on the block pours all over the side of the sump, and the drain on the radiator pours directly onto the engine mound, then runs along the crossmember and dribbles down the chassis where the exhaust goes.

 

I decide at this point to remove the water pump, i had just bolted it on and hoped for the best and never inspected it. I had also hoped to perhaps adjust it for more clearance.

 

After stripping and cleaning it i find that the pump seal is warped on one edge, and cracked a little. It looks like someone has levered it out with a screwdriver. one of the bearings has been changed as well, so thats probably the cause

 

So i take what i have down to a nearby water pump workshop, The bloke says oh gee, we dont carry these bellows seals any more. But then pulls one out from a nearby shelf. Its not the original style (new one is metal bodied) but it fits and should work. I also get some suitable grease, a 10mm E clip to replace the old circlip (was really just a split washer bent into place i think) and some tubing for the radiator drain and overflow. Polish the bronze surface on the impeller by lapping it against the new seal with some wet and dry inbetween.

 

Grease it up, and its all back together very nicely with a minimum of running around.

 

I still dont have the fan belt on

 

(I see some of the suppliers are now selling SMM water pump rebuild kits with 2 bearings and the seal, they seem a reasonable price if you needed all three. Here are the part numbers off mine.

Seal original - SCD593/50  S10  Pat.No. 644185

Seal new #605  (043416)

 

Pump bearings - (41 S7P 4MJ12 R&M England. i dont get any cross refrences with this one) so use this one N.D 3301 USA. I would consider replacing these with some good modern sealed types and never worry about greasing the pump again tbh.

 

 

Here I am pressing the new seal into the pump

cqzGFZr.jpg

 

Despite how it may appear, you can slip the E clip down, and press it onto the shaft by pushing a screwdriver blade through the pump drain slot. I totally ment to do it this way.....

 

actually it does make sure that the seal gets pressed in fully and squared, rather than press the combined shaft and seal in

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Have been taking this for runs in the country every now and then. Fiddling with the tune each time and am slowly getting improvements. Was having a Miss above 3500rpm, seems that it was leaning out as another flat turn on the carb has improved that and given me 500more. So I can probably richen it up another for max performance.

I made the mistake of then checking top speed against a GPS. How disappointing. It's cruising at a bit over 50mph on the gauge but GPS says top speed of 76 kph

Chasing that 60mph dream

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