Ke36 Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 where would i get a custom pulley made?engineers? need to change the offset of my vr4 waterpump one by like 15mm so it lines up with the others Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 i presume you are doing rwd conversion? if so i used the following combo. twincam crank pulley, twincam alternator, rwd water pump (requires a rib to be ground off in order for twincam tensioner to fit, nissan pulsar or sentra (1600cc sohc i think) water pump pully redrilled with 4mm spacer (you could just put it in a press to get the right offset, but i didn't want to weaken it anymore. This way you can use a std rwd bottom hose and still use the std rwd heater bypass pipe, and it also allows the use of a multi rib v belt (far better IMO than the single v as found on the rwd motors.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted August 1, 2007 Share Posted August 1, 2007 Hey Dan cheers for that info, I'm planning on doing the DOHC conversion to my Eterna at the end of the year. I'm just going to use the original (Starion) bottom end, with VR-4 crank/front oil pump casing, Evo III rods and pistons (higher compression than VR-4) and RVR head with Evo III cams. I'm still unsure what to do about the water pump, power steering pump and air con pumps. I'm guessing your EX doesn't have PS or AC so you didn't bother about them. As for the thermostat housing, alot of the Austarion guys make up a blanking plate for the rear of the head and relocate the housing to the front, but it requires modification to the head gasket to allow more flow to the rear of the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 yea man have done exactly that is all fitted up but i just need to align the pulley ive allready put it in a press, the alingments good but its stretched the metal and warped it so its not flat fuel yea, ive been asking about that stuff on austarion recently something i want to try but not 100% confident it will be sweet i no the pipe at the back will work so if i can get it to fit i will run it that way just dont know where to put my pipes and thermohousing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 If the pulley goes onto a keyway and needs to be moved further out I have in the past sliced 15mm off the neck of an old pulley and slipped that on the shaft first. It may not work in your application but perhaps something to consider? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I'm not convinced that reversing the water flow in the head is a good idea, it's the way it is for a reason, and if you look at the passages, they get larger as you get towards the back of the head, i made a water neck for the stock thermo location that takes the water down underneath the inlet manifold to the front of the motor where there is a remote thermo housing, i still have to experiment with some different thermostats to see which will work best (if i use one at all) Being a race car i removed the heater piping so there is no bypass around the thermostat, therefore there are just a few holes in it to allow some flow when cold, although i suspect that it will be easier to remove it alltogether. I had thoughts of running an electric water pump on a thermo switch to try and control the flow a little bit (and lose some more losses) One thing i did learn the hard way was that i needed an air bleed at the back of the head, i had an airpocket in there and managed to pop the radiator cap the first time i ran the car up to temp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I had thoughts of running an electric water pump on a thermo switch to try and control the flow a little bit (and lose some more losses) Do eet. You will never look back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thminiman Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 end of the day, machining a new pulley = fuck all work if you can just show them what you need, which from what ive read, you can. just a general engineers will do it, heaps of them around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 2, 2007 Author Share Posted August 2, 2007 cheers the thminiman will go talk to them isnowi are you able to get your inlet manifold done up with your pipe inplace? im running the cyclone manifold which seems to be quite a bit busier than your n/a one me either keen to give it a try, but would modify the water galleries so the front ones are smaller and rear larger like on zerog, but would rather go stock way if i can make it work not sure if i can get an outlet in the rear with my water pipe back there so i may have to remove it anyways was alos planning on a couple of small holes in termo to help with the water in the pipe flowing through so heat can transfer to the thermo on start up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuel Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I'm not convinced that reversing the water flow in the head is a good idea, it's the way it is for a reason, and if you look at the passages, they get larger as you get towards the back of the head, i made a water neck for the stock thermo location that takes the water down underneath the inlet manifold to the front of the motor where there is a remote thermo housing, i still have to experiment with some different thermostats to see which will work best (if i use one at all) Being a race car i removed the heater piping so there is no bypass around the thermostat, therefore there are just a few holes in it to allow some flow when cold, although i suspect that it will be easier to remove it alltogether. I had thoughts of running an electric water pump on a thermo switch to try and control the flow a little bit (and lose some more losses)One thing i did learn the hard way was that i needed an air bleed at the back of the head, i had an airpocket in there and managed to pop the radiator cap the first time i ran the car up to temp There's a few people on Austarion who have done this, one of which has had this setup for three years running reliably. The main problem is with the VR-4/Evo block as it has equal size water jackets around the front and rear of the head, whereas the Starion block (as the original thermostat housing is at the front of the head anyway) has smaller jackets at the front, and larger jackets at the rear to promote more flow through the rear of the head first. I will be placing the water temp sensors at the back of the head where the original housing would have been which would show if it started overheating anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I'm not convinced that reversing the water flow in the head is a good idea, it's the way it is for a reason, and if you look at the passages, they get larger as you get towards the back of the head, i made a water neck for the stock thermo location that takes the water down underneath the inlet manifold to the front of the motor where there is a remote thermo housing, i still have to experiment with some different thermostats to see which will work best (if i use one at all) Being a race car i removed the heater piping so there is no bypass around the thermostat, therefore there are just a few holes in it to allow some flow when cold, although i suspect that it will be easier to remove it alltogether. I had thoughts of running an electric water pump on a thermo switch to try and control the flow a little bit (and lose some more losses)One thing i did learn the hard way was that i needed an air bleed at the back of the head, i had an airpocket in there and managed to pop the radiator cap the first time i ran the car up to temp There's a few people on Austarion who have done this, one of which has had this setup for three years running reliably. The main problem is with the VR-4/Evo block as it has equal size water jackets around the front and rear of the head, whereas the Starion block (as the original thermostat housing is at the front of the head anyway) has smaller jackets at the front, and larger jackets at the rear to promote more flow through the rear of the head first. I will be placing the water temp sensors at the back of the head where the original housing would have been which would show if it started overheating anyway. Fair enough, if i had to i was prepared to accept that sort of modification, but i was able to make a pipe that worked so didn't need to in the end. isnowi are you able to get your inlet manifold done up with your pipe inplace? im running the cyclone manifold which seems to be quite a bit busier than your n/a one I have a rubber hose coming from around the back of the head into alloy pipe that is secured to the underside of the inlet manifold, this comes out just under the throttle body and into the top hose. All i have to do to remove the inlet is to take the top hose off, undo a bolt that secures the pipe and bend it out of the way. All of this is academic, as soon as i can affor a new computer the manifold is in the bin and quads will be in its place Shot with DYNAX 5D at 2007-08-02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 I had thoughts of running an electric water pump on a thermo switch to try and control the flow a little bit (and lose some more losses) Do eet. You will never look back. Yeah i have a 2nd hand Davies Craig here, needs new brushes though, i rung davies craig and they don't have parts for them, but were prepared to sell me a new one for less than half price if i send them my one back. Might yet do it. would certainly make me happier about not having a thermostat or heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikuni Posted August 2, 2007 Share Posted August 2, 2007 All of this is academic, as soon as i can affor a new computer the manifold is in the bin and quads will be in its place [pictuOR] Sweet thats looking pretty good man. 4g63 twincam injectors are mounted straight in the head aye? Makes things easier. What ecu are you going to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ke36 Posted August 3, 2007 Author Share Posted August 3, 2007 All of this is academic, as soon as i can affor a new computer the manifold is in the bin and quads will be in its place Shot with DYNAX 5D at 2007-08-02 mean i might start a project thread of my car twomorow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isnowi Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 I might yet make another in SS, with straight runners to bolt to a 4g61 head, thinking i'll start with the factory injector position in the head, depending on ecu i could get flash and run a 2nd set further up the runners, cross over at higher rpm to allow better atomisation and flow. Probably end up using a link of some sort, maybe a brand new one from the factory, cuts down on the trial and error as far as configuration, it's probably going to run solely on TPS, we'll see if it's tractable like that, part throttle at low revs will probably be nasty but we'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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