corrupt Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 ok, got my adjustable temperature switch and soldered it all up, now i gotta set it to switch at the right temp etc. it has two onboard relays to mess with, and i plan to have fan running at 6v always, then when it gets to a certain temp it switches to 12v. how do i go about dropping 12v down to 6v easily? can you just run a resistor? im guessing itll have to be some big hardcore one, not one of your usual teeny weeny ones, which shops are likely to have them? poss. use ignition ballast resistor? they've got that huyge porcelain insulator/heatsink. would be choice. 6 running all the time = totally pointless dude, all you're doing is loading up your alternator constantly so you reckon its sweet to not have a fan going at all unless the coolant gets to a certain temp? whats the best temp, you said something about when thermostat starts to open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted May 17, 2007 Share Posted May 17, 2007 ok, got my adjustable temperature switch and soldered it all up, now i gotta set it to switch at the right temp etc. it has two onboard relays to mess with, and i plan to have fan running at 6v always, then when it gets to a certain temp it switches to 12v. how do i go about dropping 12v down to 6v easily? can you just run a resistor? im guessing itll have to be some big hardcore one, not one of your usual teeny weeny ones, which shops are likely to have them? poss. use ignition ballast resistor? they've got that huyge porcelain insulator/heatsink. would be choice. 6 running all the time = totally pointless dude, all you're doing is loading up your alternator constantly so you reckon its sweet to not have a fan going at all unless the coolant gets to a certain temp? whats the best temp, you said something about when thermostat starts to open? A good cooling system will pretty much sit roughly around thermostat opening point under normal driving. That'll be aorund 1/3 up the gauge or so. set the fan to cut in @ halfway up the temp gauge FTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted May 17, 2007 Author Share Posted May 17, 2007 i think what ill do is set it at about 100 degrees, as manual says my thermostat starts to open at 88 and is fully open at 92 so im guessing thats a good running temperature for the engine, so just above that would be the go. good thing is, is this thing is pretty much fully adjustable so fuck, i may as well chuck it on and adjust it a bit till im satisfied with its operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 does the controller turn off a few degrees lower than the turn on point? i think 90deg would be better for the turn on point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT Posted May 18, 2007 Share Posted May 18, 2007 Basically you wind both adjustments back to 0, then start the car and let it warm up. When your temp gauge gets to where it normally sits then winge the main adjuster so the fans turn on. Then play around with the 2nd hystrisis to get the fans to stay on for a while before switching off again (it's basically like a timer delay for the fans to switch off) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 6 running all the time = totally pointless dude, all you're doing is loading up your alternator constantly Completely agree. An electric fan does almost nothing toward cooling the radiator at road speeds above 40 kmph. The best cooling aid I did on my pushrod Cortina was fitting an electric waterpump. Aws etc.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 The best cooling aid I did on my pushrod Cortina was fitting an electric waterpump. Aws etc.. how much did that set you back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unclejake Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 ^ about $400 from memory - but I spent another $110 or so on a theromstatic switch for it incase I forget to switch the EWP on. I used a Davies Craig pump - you can but them from Repco and they are AWSOME!!!!! (in my tiny opinion of course). I have 60 or 80 litres of coolant circulating per minute (I forget which) - regardless of engine revs. It also meant that I could hack off the mechanical waterpump and fan - giving more room for electric fans. I was not running an alternator when I first put the EWP on so I had no belts at all of the front crank pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrupt Posted May 19, 2007 Author Share Posted May 19, 2007 got the fan+temp switch all on working mint! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark105 Posted May 19, 2007 Share Posted May 19, 2007 ^ about $400 from memory - but I spent another $110 or so on a theromstatic switch for it incase I forget to switch the EWP on.I used a Davies Craig pump - you can but them from Repco and they are AWSOME!!!!! (in my tiny opinion of course). I have 60 or 80 litres of coolant circulating per minute (I forget which) - regardless of engine revs. It also meant that I could hack off the mechanical waterpump and fan - giving more room for electric fans. I was not running an alternator when I first put the EWP on so I had no belts at all of the front crank pulley. can vouch for this too by far best thing to cool engines, like jake said you got all the water moving at constant speed no matter what, solved all over heating probs on dads avenger as targa = honkin along one min and then bloody speed limited zones the next so you got a hot racing engine going from hauling to putting along temp is like bam overheating. these and big alloy radiator with elec fans, nothing gets hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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