sheepers 1976 RA28 celica

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well ive been doing some measuring and stuffing about and ive arrived at a final figure of 85mm per side must be removed to get me back to stock celica hub face to hub face (1370mm total)

im going to have a look around a 4x4 wreckers tomorrow and see if i can find some nissan navara shafts that are somewhere near right. if i can find some that are 3" shorter then we'll be in business.

im not holding out much hope though, this would make a very short shaft indeed and not the sort of thing youd want on a long travel 4WD setup, time will tell.

and so this update isint completely lame heres a pic of the cradle stripped ready for me to make a jig then cut it and shut it....



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been doing some leg work o the compatible nissan half shafts. not allot out there and what will match the GTR splines is on obtainable or to long.

so im going to make some new shafts, no biggie, would have liked to find something so others could do the same but its not to be.


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also i have done this to assure no hope of future success.


how to cut up a perfectly good GTR subframe.

first, weld some random bits of steel you have lying around the shed to it in a fairly inconvenient place, then cut some bits off.


once you've done this, cut up the bit you cut off into even smaller pieces.


if there is any bits joining your two half's together, cut them off as well.


then move the bits all over the place so you have no idea where they were and you can possibly put it back together.


try to put it back together and fail miserably. by now you should have something that looks like this, and no hope of it ever working again.


now that ive created this edifice i have no option but to try to make use of it somehow.

there will be more to this story i can assure you..........


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well for those of you who think ive been sitting round doing nothing except going "a doop pe do, a doop pe do do do, doopie do" i haven't. and to prove it i have photoshopped up some images that look like progress.

the subframe is back together and fully welded/strengthened and ready to go into the car.

it fits where i want it to and i reckon its plenty strong enough.

i still have to weld up and strengthen the floor and chassis rails but its getting there.

half shafts are almost finished and i can start to think about putting it together properly and bolting it all in..

some pics of the frame. i might weld some more bits on it but i don't reckon i need to....





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passengers side chassis rail is finished. ive used 3mm plate and tied it all in pretty well. i used the old upper control arm mounting point as part of the structure so its pretty strong.

ive started on the drivers side and will probably get it 99% finished tomorrow.

still got allot to do but its coming along.





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more has been achieved in the area of welding bits on.

Ive got the subframe sitting where i want it, i was going to move it forward by another 10mm but i don't think i need to. the reason i was going to do this is all to do with wheel clearance issues i had with the 23, but none of these rules apply here because the wheel wont move in an arc like it does on a normal live axle car. ill take out the strut and check wheel clearance but i think I'm good to go with where it sits now. the wheel thats on the car in the photo bellow is about 630 in diameter, roughly the same as a 235/40/17. with the car on the ground the wheel moves up about 15-20mm from where it is now (the strut and spring i have is very stiff, ill be changing this but its all i have for now) but thats the ride height I'm aiming for.

i have to make some more plates and such for the mounting points and to strengthen up the floor. but the rails are done and there is clearance (fuck all but enough) between the chassis rails and the subframe.




so its more upside down welding for me. i went out in the shed last night but i couldn't hold my arms up above my head any more so i had a night of, i need to acquire some 10mm plate and some huge angle iron bits and pieces to make stuff with.

i can actually see a light at the end of the tunnel now. hard to believe. and it looks like ill be able to have a back seat as per normal too.


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i forgot to mention, my half shafts are made and are at heat treating.

and Ive started looking for wheels. i want to run 16"s but the lack of tyres and available rims (ie those with dish) is pushing me toward 17"s. i really like the looks of Steve's car in auz with the 8"s on the front and the 9"s on the back and i would copy this exactly if i can.




but yea, suggestions on wheels? pics of said suggestions???

ive said it before but ill say it again, i cant fit anything smaller than 16" over the brakes so not much point in saying "widened 13" steelies bro" because that ain't gonna happen.

discuss here,


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the diff is out of my other car at the mo so i thought id have a play with wheels.

it looks really good with these on it.

pity they wont fit over the brakes, are the wrong stud pattern, they don't make them any more and even if they did i couldn't afford them.

but apart from that they are sweet as.

the wheels are 15 x 8's with a 12mm+ offset





after a bit of measuring i think it would be very do-able to fit 10" wide rims on the back of the 28. has anyone seen or done this??


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i am 99% through setting up my rear subframe for the last time, ive been using a 9 1/2" rim with a 245 40 17 tyre to set it up.

i was planing on using a 17 x 10 with a 245 40 17 on the back, it all looks good. it real tight and there is fuck all room, like 2mm at its closest point on each side as it goes up and down.

no problem, except they have just changed the rules and now the minimum tyre width you can run on a 10" rim is 255.

everything is fucked. i think ill have to cert it with 9" rims then change it after the cert.

whos got some 8 and 9 x 17 rims they want to lend me???? (5 x 114, 15 - 38 offset will do)


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still no concrete answer on the wheel/tyre size thing, but it meant that i had to move the subframe forward by about 20mm.

this had fucked me around somewhat but im now back to making bits so,

after what seems like ages but has in fact been 3 months i have made some actual parts for this car.

ive made the rear chassis mounting point for the subframe. and ive welded it to the car.

in some of the photos taken from bellow the car you can see lots of parts of the roof of my shed, this is because there are still many large holes in the car. but slowly, slowly im filling them in with stuff.

this is the last major structural part (apart from the strutt towers) that was left to make.

there are lots of little hole in the rails to fill but these are easy to do.

soon, very soon im going to sit it back on its wheels.

then its only a matter of making the GTR brakes fit on the front, building a driveshaft and i can drive it.

i can believe i just said that, "drive it". it hasn't moved under its own power for about 16 years........






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got some more info on the tyre size Vs wheel width deal.

if you can show that the manufacturer of the tyres you are using recommends them for the width of rim you are using then your good to go.

you must be using the tyres stated in the manufacturers literature, but if you can find the info and the tyres and you can afford them then your good to go.

if you can point me in the direction of tyre manufacturer's web sites for recommended fitments i would be most grateful.



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well, now i got the wheel/tyre thing sorted (im just going to run 255's for certing and see how they go, i have enough clearance just reduced travel) ive been able to buy the wheels i wanted to use.

im sure lots of you will piss and moan but i wanted something a bit different and these are exactly the right size and offset for the front and the back.

they are incredibly light too, and being Ray's wheels they wont fall to bits. it was really hard to get a good photo because they are so shiny and i have no idea what the dots are..

anyway, enjoy.



keep your flaming to a minimum, im not listening anyway............

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christ you guys, there is no way in hell id use those wheels^^^^^ :rolleyes:

im going to use a wheel thats not much better but they are cheap and the right size. they are called DTM drift's.

in other news, ive not really done much with the front brakes at all. ive had the GTR rotors and calipers sitting on the shelf for ages but never really attempted to fit anything up.

i had a play around tonight and found that the stock bracket will do the job with a really simple mod (its almost finished, pics when its done).

im going to skim the OD of my crown hubs tomorrow at work so the GTR rotors fit over them and sit on the studs as per factory. with about another hours work the drivers side caliper mount will be finished. it will take me about 2 hours to do the passengers side and thats the front brakes finished. pretty happy about this because ive been keeping an eye on other conversions on toymods and they all seem very complex, different rotors seem to get used for some reason.

why am i fucking around with brakes when ive got strut towers to make?????? well, i needed to clarify that the wheels will fit both front and back and now i know they will.

so ill be buying the wheels for it real soon.

oh, and the certifier is coming to have a look at the car and the rear end on tuesday. good good.


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many thisngs have happened, much time has passed.

i wont write my life story but ill chuck up some pictures.

if you want to know something then ask in the discussion thread and ill help if i can.









Discussion Thread Here

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some more random shit,


only just got this, haven't even started the learning required to shove it in the V8,


windscreen washer bottle and radiator overflow,


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ok, here are some more detail shots on the last parts of the rear subframe build.

if you have a question just fire away but i should say at this point that this was ALOT of work. ther were many, many times when i had to force myself out in the shed to sit in the cold hoping i would climb back under the car and weld some more bits on. it was not easy.

dont say i didnt warn you...........




















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the awful process of taking apart my baby, so that it might live in a larger light, has begun.

i hate being without this car. it pains me to think ill be without it for weeks on end while i figure out how to make the link work.

but all great omelets begin with broken eggs.


this is the factory loom. many changes need to occur before i can plug the link in. the changes fall into two basic categories.

1) remove all the wires shown

2) install complete news system of wires that somehow make magic happen in the enginey bit, resulting in more speeds.

so, easy.



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the re-wire continues but ther are no cool pictures involved in that, so i thought id post this so you get an idea of the size of the 112 in relation to the stock intake,


should fit easy........


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wires, lots and lots of wires.


its pretty close to finished (the new ECU install that is) and im quite happy about that.

i still have to weld the wideband O2 sensor boss into the exhaust and mount the inlet air temp sensor but all the wires are finished, more or less (i have to sort out power supply for the wideband O2).

once thats done its start up time!!!!! then off to the dyno for a tune and we're away!

i have missed driving this car soooooooo much........


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